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fireresq21
Jun 28, 2012, 1:53 AM
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Registered: Jul 5, 2011
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Im doing the Upper Exum on the Grand in a day towards the end of July. In an effort to cut down on weight, what are the locals thoughts on doing the route all in approach shoes? No climbing shoes will save a weight and space in the pack! Im a solid 5.10 climber and feel I can get away with no shoes. But you locals know best!!! Thanks in advance, Bryan
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edge
Jun 28, 2012, 1:58 AM
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Registered: Apr 14, 2003
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I have done the Upper Exum "back in the day" with only a pair of Nike Lava Domes, arguably the worlds first approach shoe circa 1981. No problem on the route whatsoever, and I even had to kick a few steps in some summit snow.
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olderic
Jun 28, 2012, 2:17 AM
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Registered: Oct 17, 2003
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I did the Cathedral traverse in the Tetons concluding with the N. Ridge of the Grand, 3 years ago in Guide Tennies. Of course my son led everything and i was just the mule. Actually he probably carried more then me but at least I didn't fall in those shoes.
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fireresq21
Jun 28, 2012, 3:00 AM
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Registered: Jul 5, 2011
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awesome! Thanks guys!
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curt
Jun 28, 2012, 3:15 AM
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Registered: Aug 27, 2002
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Curt
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rgold
Jun 28, 2012, 4:47 AM
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Registered: Dec 3, 2002
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Glenn Exum made the first ascent of the Exum Ridge---solo---on July 15, 1931 in whatever passed for ordinary sneakers in those days. We've had 81 years to build something equivalent to those sneakers. I'm guessing modern approach shoes will probably work out. That said, if you've got the bucks, those Gandas Curt posted a picture of are the ideal Teton shoe.
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csproul
Jun 28, 2012, 1:59 PM
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Registered: Jun 4, 2004
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Not a local, but I have done the route.I'd do Upper Exum in approach shoes. Lower Exum I'd need climbing shoes for, but Upper I'd be ok with approach shoes.
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rgold
Jun 28, 2012, 4:01 PM
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Registered: Dec 3, 2002
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From the Exum web site http://www.exumguides.com/?page_id=135:
These “sticky rubber approach shoes” are worn throughout the approach, summit climb and descent. These can be rented from us or from the local climbing shops. If you wish to purchase approach shoes we recommend the Ganda Guide, the Ganda or the Boulder X from LaSportiva. From the Jackson Hole Mountain Guides site http://www.jhmg.com/...on-trip-planner.html
Mid-Summer Footwear: approach shoes are required. Approach shoes are lightweight shoes with a "sticky" rubber sole. There are many approach shoes on the market but only a few are adequate for climbing the Grand Teton. We recommend breaking in your new pair of approach shoes prior to your arrival. Alternatively, you can rent approach shoes from Jackson Hole Mountain Guides or Teton Mountaineering. Technical rock shoes are not needed for our typical Grand trips; the approach shoes work very well. However, you should bring them if you are climbing one of the more difficult routes on the Grand Teton, or some of the other rock climbs. For multi-pitch climbs, please make sure they fit very comfortably. We recommend the following approach shoes: For early season/snowy conditions lightweight mountaineering boots: Salewa RAPACE GTX or the MTN TRAINER MID GTX. For non-snowy, July-early Sept climbs: Salewa Alp Mid Trainer Salewa MTN TRAINER MID GTX (it's above ankle, good if wanting more ankle support) Salewa MTN TRAINER, GTX or non-GTX Salewa ALP TRAINER MID (Backcountry Editor's Choice 2011) (GTX or non-GTX) Salewa ALP TRAINER (GTX or non-GTX)
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