Rock Climbing Forums: Climbing Information: General: Going to Yosemite

Forums: Climbing Information: General:
Going to Yosemite - suggested routes?

RSS Feeds for General

Premier Sponsor:

1 2

View All

Kartessa

Jun 26, 2012, 5:23 AM
Post #1 of 27 (2551 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 17, 2008
Posts: 7152

Going to Yosemite - suggested routes? Report this Post Average: (4 ratings)	Can't Post

Hey guys,

So I've booked another trip to the valley, and after the last trip, I think it's best to do my research before I go.

I'll be sticking to mostly single pitch sport for most of the week, but I had a guy come by the store telling me about a sick route he freed with his friend years and years ago.

I've checked the Internet, and YouTube and the guidebooks, but can't seem to find any information on it. All I know is the route is called "half dome" and it's over on the nose wall. Guy couldn't give me too many details since he doesn't make a habit of carrying a guidebook. "I just look up and go" is what he always says.

Anyways, if anyone had any information for me, it would be greatly appreciated, I've always wanted to do a big-wall, and since aiding isn't an option, this route sounded rad.

Thanks!

marc801

Jun 26, 2012, 9:45 AM
Post #2 of 27 (2489 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 1, 2005
Posts: 2398

Re: [Kartessa] Going to Yosemite - suggested routes? [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (1 rating)	Can't Post

Kartessa wrote:

You're trolling, right?

iknowfear

Jun 26, 2012, 9:51 AM
Post #3 of 27 (2487 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Sep 8, 2004
Posts: 581

Re: [Kartessa] Going to Yosemite - suggested routes? [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

Kartessa wrote:

you forgot to log is as "the nose" :-)

oh, and T-0

Kartessa

Jun 26, 2012, 9:55 AM
Post #4 of 27 (2485 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 17, 2008
Posts: 7152

Re: [iknowfear] Going to Yosemite - suggested routes? [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

Screw you both... This guy said the route was real.

jp_sucks

Jun 26, 2012, 10:07 AM
Post #5 of 27 (2480 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 31, 2006
Posts: 221

Re: [Kartessa] Going to Yosemite - suggested routes? [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

If you're not up for leading any trad pitches, you might consider toproping the nose as well. Bit of a bitch to carry the rope up the backside but I promise it's well worth it!

Kartessa

Jun 26, 2012, 11:14 AM
Post #6 of 27 (2459 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 17, 2008
Posts: 7152

Re: [jp_sucks] Going to Yosemite - suggested routes? [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

jp_sucks wrote:

If you're not up for leading any trad pitches, you might consider toproping the nose as well. Bit of a bitch to carry the rope up the backside but I promise it's well worth it!

Thanks dude! Is there anchors to toprope or do I have to build one?

marc801

Jun 26, 2012, 11:39 AM
Post #7 of 27 (2448 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 1, 2005
Posts: 2398

Re: [Kartessa] Going to Yosemite - suggested routes? [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

Kartessa wrote:

jp_sucks wrote:

If you're not up for leading any trad pitches, you might consider toproping the nose as well. Bit of a bitch to carry the rope up the backside but I promise it's well worth it!

Thanks dude! Is there anchors to toprope or do I have to build one?

There's a big old tree up there, so you're good to go. With rope stretch you'll get out of groundfall range somewhere near the top of the 5th pitch.

jp_sucks

Jun 26, 2012, 12:28 PM
Post #8 of 27 (2428 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 31, 2006
Posts: 221

Re: [marc801] Going to Yosemite - suggested routes? [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

You might also want to put in a directional or two so that you don't swing out too far from the wall if you fall?

cracklover

Jun 26, 2012, 12:45 PM
Post #9 of 27 (2413 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 14, 2002
Posts: 9673

Re: [jp_sucks] Going to Yosemite - suggested routes? [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

jp_sucks wrote:

If you're not up for leading any trad pitches, you might consider toproping the nose as well. Bit of a bitch to carry the rope up the backside but I promise it's well worth it!

Just because you don't enjoy humping your rope up the backside doesn't mean Kartessa might not enjoy it.

G Laugh

Kartessa

Jun 26, 2012, 12:51 PM
Post #10 of 27 (2406 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 17, 2008
Posts: 7152

Re: [marc801] Going to Yosemite - suggested routes? [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

marc801 wrote:

Kartessa wrote:

jp_sucks wrote:

If you're not up for leading any trad pitches, you might consider toproping the nose as well. Bit of a bitch to carry the rope up the backside but I promise it's well worth it!

Thanks dude! Is there anchors to toprope or do I have to build one?

There's a big old tree up there, so you're good to go. With rope stretch you'll get out of groundfall range somewhere near the top of the 5th pitch.

What if I use a static?

marc801

Jun 26, 2012, 12:55 PM
Post #11 of 27 (2397 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 1, 2005
Posts: 2398

Re: [Kartessa] Going to Yosemite - suggested routes? [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

Kartessa wrote:

marc801 wrote:

Kartessa wrote:

jp_sucks wrote:

If you're not up for leading any trad pitches, you might consider toproping the nose as well. Bit of a bitch to carry the rope up the backside but I promise it's well worth it!

Thanks dude! Is there anchors to toprope or do I have to build one?

There's a big old tree up there, so you're good to go. With rope stretch you'll get out of groundfall range somewhere near the top of the 5th pitch.

What if I use a static?

Actually, I'm more curious (or fearful) of what your belayer looks like (unless you plan on some sort of mechanical assist for the hundreds of pounds of rope involved).

edge

Jun 26, 2012, 1:08 PM
Post #12 of 27 (2394 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 14, 2003
Posts: 8823

Re: [marc801] Going to Yosemite - suggested routes? [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

You should do Royal Arches to Crest Jewel. The whole thing can be done with only a rack of draws, so I'm pretty sure its a sport route.

Kartessa

Jun 26, 2012, 2:31 PM
Post #13 of 27 (2363 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 17, 2008
Posts: 7152

Re: [marc801] Going to Yosemite - suggested routes? [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (1 rating)	Can't Post

marc801 wrote:

Kartessa wrote:

marc801 wrote:

Kartessa wrote:

jp_sucks wrote:

If you're not up for leading any trad pitches, you might consider toproping the nose as well. Bit of a bitch to carry the rope up the backside but I promise it's well worth it!

Thanks dude! Is there anchors to toprope or do I have to build one?

There's a big old tree up there, so you're good to go. With rope stretch you'll get out of groundfall range somewhere near the top of the 5th pitch.

What if I use a static?

Actually, I'm more curious (or fearful) of what your belayer looks like (unless you plan on some sort of mechanical assist for the hundreds of pounds of rope involved).

Are you calling me fat?

marc801

Jun 26, 2012, 3:22 PM
Post #14 of 27 (2350 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 1, 2005
Posts: 2398

Re: [Kartessa] Going to Yosemite - suggested routes? [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

Kartessa wrote:

marc801 wrote:

Actually, I'm more curious (or fearful) of what your belayer looks like (unless you plan on some sort of mechanical assist for the hundreds of pounds of rope involved).

Are you calling me fat?

That was hundreds of pounds of *rope*.
Reading comprehension?

curt

Jun 26, 2012, 4:17 PM
Post #15 of 27 (2332 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 26, 2002
Posts: 18043

Re: [Kartessa] Going to Yosemite - suggested routes? [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

Kartessa wrote:

When are you going? I've gotta see this. Cool

Curt

majid_sabet

Jun 26, 2012, 10:00 PM
Post #16 of 27 (2274 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 12, 2002
Posts: 8180

Re: [Kartessa] Going to Yosemite - suggested routes? [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (3 ratings)	Can't Post

Do not listen to these guys on this site. here is the picture of the top rope tree and the view for you

sungam

Jun 28, 2012, 12:48 AM
Post #19 of 27 (2140 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 24, 2004
Posts: 26352

Re: [Kartessa] Going to Yosemite - suggested routes? [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

happiegrrrl

Jun 28, 2012, 12:32 PM
Post #20 of 27 (2055 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Mar 25, 2004
Posts: 4533

Re: [sungam] Going to Yosemite - suggested routes? [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (2 ratings)	Can't Post

Link to image original http://www.flickr.com/...ilektrik/4072096626/

Troll or more embarrassing than getting hit by a bus and having unclean undies in the ER - just saw this image on Pinterest and - wow! The photographer blended 3 exposures to create the effect.

Why troll when there are much better ways to interact?

sungam

Jun 28, 2012, 3:28 PM
Post #21 of 27 (2024 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 24, 2004
Posts: 26352

Re: [happiegrrrl] Going to Yosemite - suggested routes? [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (1 rating)	Can't Post

She isn't trolling, she was actually informed that the route exists.

It's not her fault she doesn't follow Bert and Earnie's good advice.

happiegrrrl

Jun 29, 2012, 1:07 PM
Post #22 of 27 (1933 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Mar 25, 2004
Posts: 4533

Re: [sungam] Going to Yosemite - suggested routes? [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

In reply to:

another

In reply to:

the valley

In reply to:

single pitch sport

Not trolling - uh huh... If not, better keep a clean pair in the purse, it would be especially embarrassing to be hit by one of the Green Dragons and not be prepared. You know how small town talk gets round.....