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Joho
Feb 27, 2012, 3:42 AM
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hey guys,
I just wanted to ask about your opinions on the new La Sportiva - Futura climbing shoe and also about the "no edge" concept for the sole of the shoe. Does it make a big difference to the usual climbing shoe?
thanks
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Kartessa
Feb 27, 2012, 4:55 AM
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Unless you're climbing at a high level, they'll just feel like old, floppy shoes with no edge, but maybe a little less broken in.
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Joho
Feb 27, 2012, 5:02 AM
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what do they feel like if you do climb at a high level?
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GeckoBat
Feb 28, 2012, 7:50 PM
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Kartessa, do you own a pair? I saw the ad for these shoes and the "concept" is interesting. I recently purchased a new pair of shoes and the one thing I noticed between my new shoes and my older pair is the lack of sensitivity of my toes at the very end of the rubber. I'm still trying to "learn" where the end when I'm placing them on a tiny edge. I find myself digging the toe deeper into the surface with uncertainty. Do the Futura's require the strength of a more seasoned climber (eg. more developed foot strength) in order to fully appreciate them?
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Rubicon
Mar 7, 2012, 2:12 AM
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The whole rounded edges concept is quite simply idiotic and a downright scam.. We all know what rounded toes feel like (ON OUR OLD PAIRS THAT NEED RESOLES) so why would we buy that? You want to have a 90 degree edge on your toe so that it sits flush between the foothold and the wall. By rounding the toe you take away a spot of traction.
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shotwell
Mar 7, 2012, 2:27 AM
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Rubicon wrote: The whole rounded edges concept is quite simply idiotic and a downright scam.. We all know what rounded toes feel like (ON OUR OLD PAIRS THAT NEED RESOLES) so why would we buy that? You want to have a 90 degree edge on your toe so that it sits flush between the foothold and the wall. By rounding the toe you take away a spot of traction.
For certain types of climbing I prefer nothing more than an old, beat up pair of shoes. The softer the better, depending on what I'm trying to do. Just because you don't like the concept doesn't make it a scam.
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shockabuku
Mar 7, 2012, 4:26 AM
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Square edges roll off on small holds.
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irukandji
Mar 8, 2012, 8:29 AM
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My 2 cents:
Rounded edges are way more sensitive than new, square ones (love it when my Cobras get a bit broken in and rounded) BUT by the time you get all sweet and sensitive with them, the're about to go in for a re-sole. I guess the Futura attempts to offer that feeling from the start and for a bit longer, no idea about the durability of the new shoe though.
Also, it seems to be rounded on the inside of the shoe as well. I've no idea if regular shoes aren't just as round on the inside, so it might be BS, but I guess they did tweak something here and there. LaSpo does great shoes so I wouldn't accuse them of scamming all that quick.
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ghisino
Mar 8, 2012, 11:26 AM
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i've had a pair of speedsters, who share the same sole design.
quite odd-feeling in the beginning and not really at home on nano-edging, but brilliant on any kind of irregular feature, especially on slabs...small bumps, knobs, crystals etc...
the main problem of that shoe is that looking at performance, it was mainly a very specialized slab and slopers thing, game-changing on some boulder problems but quite sloppy on most overhanging ones and on plastic too...
a laspo athlete tells me he ad the same issues about the speedster and that the new futura seems to be more of an allrounder, thanks to a redesigned, sharper and more downturned toebox, which makes it a lot better on plastic and overhanging terain...but hey it's his job to tell people that the new shoes are great!
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mike-f
May 13, 2012, 2:19 PM
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I disagree with some of the comments here: they seem to be purely subjective, and it's actually very complex.
Many years ago I climbed in Asolo Runouts which I loved. Previous to that we wore boots! The Runouts had softer rounded soles and just seemed to grip. Then came 'stealth' rubber, amazing - very soft, molds to the rock surface, and reforms once the pressure is off - 'sticks like glue'. The trade-off is faster wear and cost. In those days we only used to talk about 'edging shoes' or 'smearing shoes'.
It seems there has been a move away from smearing shoes, and being cynical one wonders if it's simply cheaper to manufacture a shoe with an edge, i.e. a 'stuck on' sole rather than a molded sole. Fashion is another consideration, not least for the manufacturer. Personally I have always felt more secure in a tight soft shoe which grips, rather than a rigid sole which needs to find an edge. However, both features are important.
The frictional properties of rubber are quite complicated. The rigidity, structure and volume of your foot, not to mention the surface/angle of the rock face and your height/weight ratio will all have a bearing on the experience. I suspect the Futura would suit me very well. There's only one way to tell for sure, but then it's too late to take them back if they're wrong! :)
(This post was edited by mike-f on May 13, 2012, 2:34 PM)
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noahfor
May 14, 2012, 3:53 AM
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I had a pair of Speedsters, which, like the Futura have no edges. The difference between the two is that the Speedsters are built on the PD 85 last, which is Sportiva's most downturned, most asymmetrical last. It's the same one that the Testarossa is built around. The Futura is built around the PD 75, which is less aggressive and less asymmetrical, the same as the Miuras. The Futura also has a 1.1mm midsole in the toe, whereas the Speedster is midsole-less, making it more sensitive. So, the Futura is less sensitive, less aggressive, and a bit more supportive than the Speedster, making it less specialized and better for all around climbing.
The problem is that the edge-less design is not good for an all around shoe. I was able to adapt to the design so that toeing in on small footholds wasn't a problem. However, it was impossible for me to learn how to put any weight on my foot while backstepping on small footholds without slipping right off.
I'm pretty sure neither shoe is supposed to be a specialized slab climbing shoe though.
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sth36
Jul 23, 2012, 4:20 PM
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I've climbed in Evolv, Scarpa, and other Sportiva shoes, but these are by far my favorite. A hybrid between the Solutions and the Speedsters (everyone's favorite slipper)?!?! What could be better/?
So here's my advice, size 'em small (I went half a size down from my Miura VS) and trust them. The shoe sticks to anything--it edges, smears, toe and heel hooks. It can do it all.
The soft rubber gives the added sensitivity, but if you're feet aren't strong, this could be a setback for you.
I think everyone should give these great shoes a chance, and don't write off the "edgeless design" just because you haven't experienced it.
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AO8
Sep 6, 2012, 12:37 AM
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I change my mind. These shoes suck ass.
I wore them for a couple weeks while injured, and still managed to go threw the soles and rip the straps.
I sent them back and have traded them for Scarpa's "Boostic!"
A MUCH BETTER SHOE-I realize now that the "Futura" was mass released and publicized to sell them rather then let them speak for themselves in order to make $.
BULLSHIT!
If you're into La Sportiva, stick with the classics... Muira, Testerossa, or switch brands.
As for the Futura, although comfortable and sticky, it wears down too fast and is WAYYYYY over priced!
(This post was edited by AO8 on Sep 6, 2012, 12:41 AM)
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ecade
Sep 6, 2012, 1:39 PM
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Never worn the futuras but I used to boulder in the speedsters, the futura's predecessor, (futuras are like a speedster solution love child if i'm not mistaken) Local gear store was blowing them out at a good price and I had a few bucks in my pocket...
I found them great for indoor bouldering foot work practice and that was about it. Outdoors they hurt, they are so thin they hurt alot.
I found you felt where exactly your foot was on a hold and could feel the minute differences between foot purchases.
that said, i found it impossible to use them in pockets, no edge.. and anything that was the tiniest bit smooth was nearly impossible to stand on.
I still wear them when i find i need to work on footwork skills. but eh, IMHO not worth it unless you boulder indoors competitively at high level, or unless you can get them on sale for a good price.
as i write this, i think it would be smart to try them as a smearing/stemming shoe, never tried but might perhaps the thin sole would be useful there.
GL
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beaulanier
Nov 28, 2014, 8:30 AM
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Registered: Aug 31, 2014
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Thinner shoes are more sensitive and flexible, and this wears out faster. Simple physics people.
The question is:
Does it work, and why.
For me barefoot-style works. Or, it lets my foot do its work.
Blaming La Spo for physics of thinner material wearing faster is ridiculous , as is blaming them for trying to sell and profit from their new ideas.
My review:
http://www.rockclimbing.com/cgi-bin/forum/gforum.cgi?post=2647658;#2647658
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