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chronic flapper syndrome
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tscampbell


Jun 30, 2012, 6:50 PM
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chronic flapper syndrome
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I need some help with this one. It could be aging, the weather where I'm currently at (very humid) or that I can only manage to get to the gym once a week if i'm lucky, but every single time I climb giant flappers form on both my middle fingers. Does anyone have any callus conditioning secrets of magic ways around this that I haven't heard of yet?


sungam


Jul 1, 2012, 6:34 AM
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Re: [tscampbell] chronic flapper syndrome [In reply to]
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Do you sand/pumas/razor them? I find that pumas+moisturiser leaves me hands pretty safe from flaps.


granite_grrl


Jul 3, 2012, 5:21 AM
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Re: [tscampbell] chronic flapper syndrome [In reply to]
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I used to get a significant number of flappers when I first started climbing. Now part of this probably had to do with the rock (corse granite then vs the limestone I climb on now), but I think the biggest two factors for the improvment are:

1) I learned to climb much better, don't tend to thrash around as much or fall off jugs.

2) I take better care of my hands. Don't let calluses build up (sand them down) and moisturise more. Seems counter intuative to a beginner, but trust me.


Kartessa


Jul 3, 2012, 8:36 AM
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Re: [sungam] chronic flapper syndrome [In reply to]
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sungam wrote:
Do you sand/pumas/razor them? I find that pumas+moisturiser leaves me hands pretty safe from flaps.

I find Pumas to be a little too aggressive for my young little hands... I hear some of the guys really dig Cougars though, and the Cougars like their rough hands or their hands playing rough.


chadnsc


Jul 3, 2012, 8:48 AM
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Re: [Kartessa] chronic flapper syndrome [In reply to]
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Kartessa wrote:
sungam wrote:
Do you sand/pumas/razor them? I find that pumas+moisturiser leaves me hands pretty safe from flaps.

I find Pumas to be a little too aggressive for my young little hands... I hear some of the guys really dig Cougars though, and the Cougars like their rough hands or their hands playing rough.


You're not young and your hands aren't little. Wink


sungam


Jul 3, 2012, 2:48 PM
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chadnsc wrote:
Kartessa wrote:
sungam wrote:
Do you sand/pumas/razor them? I find that pumas+moisturiser leaves me hands pretty safe from flaps.

I find Pumas to be a little too aggressive for my young little hands... I hear some of the guys really dig Cougars though, and the Cougars like their rough hands or their hands playing rough.


You're not young and your hands aren't little. Wink
Dude, have you seen her? K is tiny. She is like one of those adorable kittens you can hold curled up in a ball in your hands.


D'awwww


sungam


Jul 3, 2012, 2:53 PM
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Re: [Kartessa] chronic flapper syndrome [In reply to]
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Kartessa wrote:
sungam wrote:
Do you sand/pumas/razor them? I find that pumas+moisturiser leaves me hands pretty safe from flaps.

I find Pumas to be a little too aggressive for my young little hands... I hear some of the guys really dig Cougars though, and the Cougars like their rough hands or their hands playing rough.
I guess you know a lot about what cougars want, huh?


tscampbell


Jul 3, 2012, 4:45 PM
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Re: [granite_grrl] chronic flapper syndrome [In reply to]
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i appreciate the advise from everyone, but i've been doing all these things for the 18 years i have been climbing. it's always the same spots that rip off, except this past week one turned into a blood blister i wound up having to lance... (i know that's hot). any other tricks out there?


Kartessa


Jul 3, 2012, 9:14 PM
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Re: [sungam] chronic fapper syndrome [In reply to]
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sungam wrote:
Kartessa wrote:
sungam wrote:
Do you sand/pumas/razor them? I find that pumas+moisturiser leaves me hands pretty safe from flaps.

I find Pumas to be a little too aggressive for my young little hands... I hear some of the guys really dig Cougars though, and the Cougars like their rough hands or their hands playing rough.
I guess you know a lot about what cougars want, huh?

You have no idea


gypc


Jul 5, 2012, 10:52 AM
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when i first started climbing i would always get blisters that would turn into flappers the next day, and even now my callouses go away within a week of not climbing. When I felt a blister/flapper coming, i`d try and shorten my climb that day and take the next day off, but in between I used one of these


...its a parrafin wax whatever you wana call it, but it seemed to heal the blisters up and turn them into callous faster than just letting them go. Now I just have to maintain filing them down to keep the flappers at bay.


atpclimbing


Jul 5, 2012, 5:51 PM
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Re: [tscampbell] chronic flapper syndrome [In reply to]
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I have gotten a total of one flapper ever. Right after I got my first flapper one of the old dudes who climbs with me gave me one really simple tip: push your skin back down after each climb, and at rests when you're just pulling on jugs. Super simple, but it works. No more flappers. Filing down your calluses helps a bit too (get an emery board).


dindolino32


Jul 6, 2012, 2:07 PM
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start climbing on crimpers and don't dyno or stick to routes with big moves. I climbed 4-5 days a week and never had problems till I started trying to campus our archway or used a weight vest. That forced me to grab the big holds and I was slipping which created the flappers.


DouglasHunter


Jul 8, 2012, 11:40 AM
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Re: [tscampbell] chronic flapper syndrome [In reply to]
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tscampbell wrote:
I need some help with this one. It could be aging, the weather where I'm currently at (very humid) or that I can only manage to get to the gym once a week if i'm lucky, but every single time I climb giant flappers form on both my middle fingers. Does anyone have any callus conditioning secrets of magic ways around this that I haven't heard of yet?

If the condition is as bad as you say it is, and you are an old pro when it comes to Hoofmaker, and emmory boards then maybe the best thing to do is protective taping. Apply Tinctire of Benzoin to your skin and then tape over it. The tape does not have to be tight so it shouldn't feel too strange. The tape won't budge and your skin won't tare. I use this method all the time to keep training through sore skin and flappers. Note if you already have a flapper or a blister, apply Tincture around it but not directly on it.


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