|
gblauer
Moderator
Jul 2, 2012, 8:56 PM
Post #2 of 18
(12099 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 4, 2002
Posts: 2824
|
Right time/Right place! Lucky guy!
|
|
|
|
|
Gmburns2000
Jul 2, 2012, 9:28 PM
Post #3 of 18
(12081 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 6, 2007
Posts: 15266
|
Damn!
I wonder what his belayor was thinking.
|
|
|
|
|
moose_droppings
Jul 2, 2012, 10:45 PM
Post #4 of 18
(12057 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 7, 2005
Posts: 3371
|
Timing is everything .
Time for him to by a lotto ticket.
Soooo lucky the people above were able to drop a line in time too.
Personally, I would have bailed much sooner with all that water running under a sliver of ice like that.
|
|
|
|
|
billl7
Jul 3, 2012, 1:51 AM
Post #5 of 18
(12003 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 13, 2005
Posts: 1890
|
moose_droppings wrote: Personally, I would have bailed much sooner with all that water running under a sliver of ice like that.
|
|
|
|
|
Guran
Jul 3, 2012, 10:55 AM
Post #6 of 18
(11944 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 18, 2008
Posts: 220
|
moose_droppings wrote: Personally, I would have bailed much sooner with all that water running under a sliver of ice like that.
Yeah hopefully...
But I've seen more than one ice route looking perfect at the start turn to serious horror shit at the top out. (or walk off. don't forget possible avalanches at the walk off brrr...)
Truthfully, the mind starts telling you stupid things about how there is just a few feet left to safety. (or even "just one more pitch") Then you suddenly realize you should have bailed an hour ago.
|
|
|
|
|
jae8908
Jul 4, 2012, 3:06 AM
Post #7 of 18
(11853 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 15, 2011
Posts: 270
|
He owes them a case or two of beer. lol
|
|
|
|
|
chriss
Jul 5, 2012, 2:25 AM
Post #8 of 18
(11765 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 13, 2004
Posts: 92
|
"Bum out man. He grabbed aid and blew it all."
Who rememebr that line?
|
|
|
|
|
uni_jim
Jul 5, 2012, 2:42 AM
Post #9 of 18
(11762 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 27, 2008
Posts: 429
|
There's no place for that shit in the mountains. Learn to back off before someone has to save your ass. If you can't downclimb ice, you have no place on the sharp end.
|
|
|
|
|
corno32
Jul 5, 2012, 7:08 AM
Post #10 of 18
(11731 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 7, 2012
Posts: 17
|
don't know much about ice climbing, wouldn't he have pro below him and thus should be able to fall, or is the assumption it was no good given the patch he was on was melting.
|
|
|
|
|
shoo
Jul 5, 2012, 10:20 AM
Post #11 of 18
(11723 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 22, 2006
Posts: 1501
|
corno32 wrote: don't know much about ice climbing, wouldn't he have pro below him and thus should be able to fall, or is the assumption it was no good given the patch he was on was melting.
Chances are that in these kinds of conditions, screws aren't much good. Either the ice is too slushy and rotten to actually get a screw in, or if on the off chance there is some decent ice, screws are likely to melt out fairly quickly due to high temps and blazing sun.
Even if he had decent pro beneath him somehow, falling is considered a non-option in ice. In addition to the general sketchiness of the pro, you are virtually guaranteed an injury from a decent sized fall. Crampons are likely to catch on things, tools go flying, and low angles are bad, bad news.
When the conditions start going sour, your two options are really either to a) bail or b) gun it to safety as fast as you can. Clearly this guy chose the wrong option, though it isn't clear what information he had available to him at the time. It is possible (though unlikely) that by the time he could see the conditions of the top out, it was too late to back off.
|
|
|
|
|
Guran
Jul 5, 2012, 1:14 PM
Post #12 of 18
(11700 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 18, 2008
Posts: 220
|
uni_jim wrote: There's no place for that shit in the mountains. Learn to back off before someone has to save your ass. If you can't downclimb ice, you have no place on the sharp end.
You certainly have a point, but given the choice between risking a down climb and accepting a top rope, I'd go with the top rope any day.
|
|
|
|
|
granite_grrl
Jul 5, 2012, 3:37 PM
Post #13 of 18
(11670 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 25, 2002
Posts: 15084
|
uni_jim wrote: There's no place for that shit in the mountains. Learn to back off before someone has to save your ass. If you can't downclimb ice, you have no place on the sharp end.
I doubt this guy was even reading the ice right to know he should have down climbed.
|
|
|
|
|
corno32
Jul 6, 2012, 12:38 AM
Post #15 of 18
(11587 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 7, 2012
Posts: 17
|
shoo wrote: corno32 wrote: don't know much about ice climbing, wouldn't he have pro below him and thus should be able to fall, or is the assumption it was no good given the patch he was on was melting. Chances are that in these kinds of conditions, screws aren't much good. Either the ice is too slushy and rotten to actually get a screw in, or if on the off chance there is some decent ice, screws are likely to melt out fairly quickly due to high temps and blazing sun. Even if he had decent pro beneath him somehow, falling is considered a non-option in ice. In addition to the general sketchiness of the pro, you are virtually guaranteed an injury from a decent sized fall. Crampons are likely to catch on things, tools go flying, and low angles are bad, bad news. When the conditions start going sour, your two options are really either to a) bail or b) gun it to safety as fast as you can. Clearly this guy chose the wrong option, though it isn't clear what information he had available to him at the time. It is possible (though unlikely) that by the time he could see the conditions of the top out, it was too late to back off.
i see thanks for clarifying it!
|
|
|
|
|
uni_jim
Jul 6, 2012, 3:39 AM
Post #16 of 18
(11552 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 27, 2008
Posts: 429
|
Guran wrote: uni_jim wrote: There's no place for that shit in the mountains. Learn to back off before someone has to save your ass. If you can't downclimb ice, you have no place on the sharp end. You certainly have a point, but given the choice between risking a down climb and accepting a top rope, I'd go with the top rope any day.
There won't allways be a nice couple with a rope above at the belay.
|
|
|
|
|
Guran
Jul 6, 2012, 1:48 PM
Post #17 of 18
(11480 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 18, 2008
Posts: 220
|
uni_jim wrote: Guran wrote: uni_jim wrote: There's no place for that shit in the mountains. Learn to back off before someone has to save your ass. If you can't downclimb ice, you have no place on the sharp end. You certainly have a point, but given the choice between risking a down climb and accepting a top rope, I'd go with the top rope any day. There won't allways be a nice couple with a rope above at the belay.
Naturally. I just wanted to give the guy in the video some slack. (no pun intended)
Just because there was a top rope ready for him doesn't mean he wouldn't have backed-bailed had it not been there. There might have been solid ice up to that point.
|
|
|
|
|
cracklover
Jul 6, 2012, 3:03 PM
Post #18 of 18
(11461 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 14, 2002
Posts: 10162
|
Guran wrote: uni_jim wrote: Guran wrote: uni_jim wrote: There's no place for that shit in the mountains. Learn to back off before someone has to save your ass. If you can't downclimb ice, you have no place on the sharp end. You certainly have a point, but given the choice between risking a down climb and accepting a top rope, I'd go with the top rope any day. There won't allways be a nice couple with a rope above at the belay. Naturally. I just wanted to give the guy in the video some slack. (no pun intended) Just because there was a top rope ready for him doesn't mean he wouldn't have backed-bailed had it not been there. There might have been solid ice up to that point.
I'm all for giving benefit of the doubt, but... in this case, I think it's a safe bet that had the couple not lowered the rope, they'd have had video of an ice climber's death. See my post above.
Dude completely screwed himself.
GO
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
