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One lucky son of a gun. Video.
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squierbypetzl
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Jul 2, 2012, 11:12 AM
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One lucky son of a gun. Video.
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http://www.youtube.com/...ture=player_embedded

Havenīt seen it posted. Just, wow.


gblauer
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Jul 2, 2012, 1:56 PM
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Re: [squierbypetzl] One lucky son of a gun. Video. [In reply to]
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Right time/Right place! Lucky guy!


Gmburns2000


Jul 2, 2012, 2:28 PM
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Re: [squierbypetzl] One lucky son of a gun. Video. [In reply to]
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squierbypetzl wrote:
http://www.youtube.com/...ture=player_embedded

Havenīt seen it posted. Just, wow.

Damn!

I wonder what his belayor was thinking.


moose_droppings


Jul 2, 2012, 3:45 PM
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Re: [squierbypetzl] One lucky son of a gun. Video. [In reply to]
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Timing is everything .
Time for him to by a lotto ticket.


Soooo lucky the people above were able to drop a line in time too.
Personally, I would have bailed much sooner with all that water running under a sliver of ice like that.


billl7


Jul 2, 2012, 6:51 PM
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Re: [moose_droppings] One lucky son of a gun. Video. [In reply to]
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moose_droppings wrote:
Personally, I would have bailed much sooner with all that water running under a sliver of ice like that.
That's what I was thinking. And I bet he was regretting not getting the proverbial "alpine start".


Guran


Jul 3, 2012, 3:55 AM
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Re: [moose_droppings] One lucky son of a gun. Video. [In reply to]
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moose_droppings wrote:
Personally, I would have bailed much sooner with all that water running under a sliver of ice like that.

Yeah hopefully...
But I've seen more than one ice route looking perfect at the start turn to serious horror shit at the top out. (or walk off. don't forget possible avalanches at the walk off brrr...)

Truthfully, the mind starts telling you stupid things about how there is just a few feet left to safety. (or even "just one more pitch") Then you suddenly realize you should have bailed an hour ago.


jae8908


Jul 3, 2012, 8:06 PM
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Re: [squierbypetzl] One lucky son of a gun. Video. [In reply to]
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He owes them a case or two of beer. lol


chriss


Jul 4, 2012, 7:25 PM
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Re: [squierbypetzl] One lucky son of a gun. Video. [In reply to]
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"Bum out man. He grabbed aid and blew it all."


Who rememebr that line?


uni_jim


Jul 4, 2012, 7:42 PM
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Re: [squierbypetzl] One lucky son of a gun. Video. [In reply to]
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There's no place for that shit in the mountains. Learn to back off before someone has to save your ass. If you can't downclimb ice, you have no place on the sharp end.


corno32


Jul 5, 2012, 12:08 AM
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Re: [squierbypetzl] One lucky son of a gun. Video. [In reply to]
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don't know much about ice climbing, wouldn't he have pro below him and thus should be able to fall, or is the assumption it was no good given the patch he was on was melting.


shoo


Jul 5, 2012, 3:20 AM
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corno32 wrote:
don't know much about ice climbing, wouldn't he have pro below him and thus should be able to fall, or is the assumption it was no good given the patch he was on was melting.

Chances are that in these kinds of conditions, screws aren't much good. Either the ice is too slushy and rotten to actually get a screw in, or if on the off chance there is some decent ice, screws are likely to melt out fairly quickly due to high temps and blazing sun.

Even if he had decent pro beneath him somehow, falling is considered a non-option in ice. In addition to the general sketchiness of the pro, you are virtually guaranteed an injury from a decent sized fall. Crampons are likely to catch on things, tools go flying, and low angles are bad, bad news.

When the conditions start going sour, your two options are really either to a) bail or b) gun it to safety as fast as you can. Clearly this guy chose the wrong option, though it isn't clear what information he had available to him at the time. It is possible (though unlikely) that by the time he could see the conditions of the top out, it was too late to back off.


Guran


Jul 5, 2012, 6:14 AM
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Re: [uni_jim] One lucky son of a gun. Video. [In reply to]
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uni_jim wrote:
There's no place for that shit in the mountains. Learn to back off before someone has to save your ass. If you can't downclimb ice, you have no place on the sharp end.

You certainly have a point, but given the choice between risking a down climb and accepting a top rope, I'd go with the top rope any day.


granite_grrl


Jul 5, 2012, 8:37 AM
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Re: [uni_jim] One lucky son of a gun. Video. [In reply to]
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uni_jim wrote:
There's no place for that shit in the mountains. Learn to back off before someone has to save your ass. If you can't downclimb ice, you have no place on the sharp end.

I doubt this guy was even reading the ice right to know he should have down climbed.


Partner cracklover


Jul 5, 2012, 9:35 AM
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Re: [corno32] One lucky son of a gun. Video. [In reply to]
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corno32 wrote:
don't know much about ice climbing, wouldn't he have pro below him and thus should be able to fall, or is the assumption it was no good given the patch he was on was melting.

I cannot personally verify this, but a guy who says he's friends with the woman who's voice you hear in the video told me that A - the last gear the guy had was the belay, and B - he wouldn't have factor twoed onto the belay, the ground would have caught him first.

GO


corno32


Jul 5, 2012, 5:38 PM
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Re: [shoo] One lucky son of a gun. Video. [In reply to]
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shoo wrote:
corno32 wrote:
don't know much about ice climbing, wouldn't he have pro below him and thus should be able to fall, or is the assumption it was no good given the patch he was on was melting.

Chances are that in these kinds of conditions, screws aren't much good. Either the ice is too slushy and rotten to actually get a screw in, or if on the off chance there is some decent ice, screws are likely to melt out fairly quickly due to high temps and blazing sun.

Even if he had decent pro beneath him somehow, falling is considered a non-option in ice. In addition to the general sketchiness of the pro, you are virtually guaranteed an injury from a decent sized fall. Crampons are likely to catch on things, tools go flying, and low angles are bad, bad news.

When the conditions start going sour, your two options are really either to a) bail or b) gun it to safety as fast as you can. Clearly this guy chose the wrong option, though it isn't clear what information he had available to him at the time. It is possible (though unlikely) that by the time he could see the conditions of the top out, it was too late to back off.

i see thanks for clarifying it!


uni_jim


Jul 5, 2012, 8:39 PM
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Re: [Guran] One lucky son of a gun. Video. [In reply to]
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Guran wrote:
uni_jim wrote:
There's no place for that shit in the mountains. Learn to back off before someone has to save your ass. If you can't downclimb ice, you have no place on the sharp end.

You certainly have a point, but given the choice between risking a down climb and accepting a top rope, I'd go with the top rope any day.

There won't allways be a nice couple with a rope above at the belay.


Guran


Jul 6, 2012, 6:48 AM
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uni_jim wrote:
Guran wrote:
uni_jim wrote:
There's no place for that shit in the mountains. Learn to back off before someone has to save your ass. If you can't downclimb ice, you have no place on the sharp end.

You certainly have a point, but given the choice between risking a down climb and accepting a top rope, I'd go with the top rope any day.

There won't allways be a nice couple with a rope above at the belay.

Naturally. I just wanted to give the guy in the video some slack. (no pun intended)
Just because there was a top rope ready for him doesn't mean he wouldn't have backed-bailed had it not been there. There might have been solid ice up to that point.


Partner cracklover


Jul 6, 2012, 8:03 AM
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Re: [Guran] One lucky son of a gun. Video. [In reply to]
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Guran wrote:
uni_jim wrote:
Guran wrote:
uni_jim wrote:
There's no place for that shit in the mountains. Learn to back off before someone has to save your ass. If you can't downclimb ice, you have no place on the sharp end.

You certainly have a point, but given the choice between risking a down climb and accepting a top rope, I'd go with the top rope any day.

There won't allways be a nice couple with a rope above at the belay.

Naturally. I just wanted to give the guy in the video some slack. (no pun intended)
Just because there was a top rope ready for him doesn't mean he wouldn't have backed-bailed had it not been there. There might have been solid ice up to that point.

I'm all for giving benefit of the doubt, but... in this case, I think it's a safe bet that had the couple not lowered the rope, they'd have had video of an ice climber's death. See my post above.

Dude completely screwed himself.

GO


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