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First-time-to-LH beta?
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7esc1


Jul 8, 2012, 5:55 PM
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Registered: May 16, 2012
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First-time-to-LH beta?  (North_America: Canada: Ontario: Central_Ontario: Lions_Head)
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I'm hoping to head up to the Bruce and check out Lion's Head later this month. I've never been there and also never been exposed to hanging belays before. I have been reading alot on the area but am still trying to get a better understanding of the area...

1. Are there designated rappelling stations (ie with rap rings) for the routes? I assume we shouldn't use trees?
2a. Do all the routes end off at the top on the cliff?
2b. If so, does it become a top belaying system after?

Any other things I should know?


Kartessa


Jul 9, 2012, 7:14 AM
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Registered: Nov 17, 2008
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Re: [7esc1] First-time-to-LH beta? [In reply to]
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7esc1 wrote:
I'm hoping to head up to the Bruce and check out Lion's Head later this month. I've never been there and also never been exposed to hanging belays before. I have been reading alot on the area but am still trying to get a better understanding of the area...

1. Are there designated rappelling stations (ie with rap rings) for the routes? I assume we shouldn't use trees?
2a. Do all the routes end off at the top on the cliff?
2b. If so, does it become a top belaying system after?

Any other things I should know?

1. There are no rings or bolts to rap off. You need to use trees, but often times you're going to have to go a distance back for something beefy because close to the edge is nothing but little cedars.

2a. Most routes are a topout, there are a couple of ground-up routes that don't quite top out, don't worry about them though.

2b. Yes, you belay from above unless you want to play toprope-tard from a hanging belay and jug your way out.

I'm going to be super nice and say that you're best off going with someone who's been before. Rap into the wrong line and you're on a 5.12 instead of a 5.8. There's no labels at the top (well there are some but good luck finding them on your first trip out). You'll end up having to do the 4 hour hike back to town or having to jug up (better pray someone has a pair of ascenders) and you have a lot of juice in the tank.

I'm also going to be an asshole and tell you that not knowing what you're in for is a good way to get yourself hurt so bring someone who knows what they're doing. With the questions above you have no place playing guide at this one.


7esc1


Jul 9, 2012, 8:10 AM
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Registered: May 16, 2012
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Re: [Kartessa] First-time-to-LH beta? [In reply to]
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Ok. Thanks for the info. Latvian Ledge seems like there are easy climbs to choose from and a designated rappelling station.


Kartessa


Jul 9, 2012, 8:16 AM
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Re: [7esc1] First-time-to-LH beta? [In reply to]
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7esc1 wrote:
Ok. Thanks for the info. Latvian Ledge seems like there are easy climbs to choose from and a designated rappelling station.

I'm still saying you shouldn't be leading the group you're with...

But whatever... it's your funeral.


granite_grrl


Jul 9, 2012, 8:48 AM
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Re: [7esc1] First-time-to-LH beta? [In reply to]
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7esc1 wrote:
Ok. Thanks for the info. Latvian Ledge seems like there are easy climbs to choose from and a designated rappelling station.

There is no desinated rappel stations at this cliff and you have to climb out. Make sure you know how to set up a safe rap station from trees, etc, and can climb out with your pack.

You'll still need to figure out where Latvian Ledge is and the best place to rap into it. For your first time I will also strongly urge you to head out with someone who has been there before.


Kartessa


Jul 9, 2012, 9:02 AM
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Re: [granite_grrl] First-time-to-LH beta? [In reply to]
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granite_grrl wrote:
7esc1 wrote:
Ok. Thanks for the info. Latvian Ledge seems like there are easy climbs to choose from and a designated rappelling station.

There is no desinated rappel stations at this cliff and you have to climb out. Make sure you know how to set up a safe rap station from trees, etc, and can climb out with your pack.

You'll still need to figure out where Latvian Ledge is and the best place to rap into it. For your first time I will also strongly urge you to head out with someone who has been there before.

One weekend, I want to take my binoculars and watch the shit-show from the water...

... Got a boat?


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