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RhinoD
Jul 10, 2012, 9:23 AM
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Hello. I'm a beginner that is starting at a gym that primarily has bouldering. When I search for Morton Toe shoes I primarily get shown $130 Optimus Prime shoes. Does anyone have a recommendation for some less aggressive/more comfortable symmetrical beginner shoes for bouldering and vertical? Also would appreciate if you know how true to size your recommendation is. Thanks for the help!!!
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utard
Jul 10, 2012, 10:58 AM
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Don't buy climbing shoes online, go into a local shop and try their shoes on before you buy them. That way you won't get stuck with an expensive pair of paperweights that hurt your foot when you try to wear them.
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marc801
Jul 10, 2012, 11:20 AM
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utard wrote: Don't buy climbing shoes online, go into a local shop and try their shoes on before you buy them. That way you won't get stuck with an expensive pair of paperweights that hurt your foot when you try to wear them.
Don't buy down-turned shoes at this point.
Don't be afraid to get them a little bit bigger than whatever someone recommends. Fit and (relative) comfort are more important for you now than trying to eke out that last micro-increase in performance (which you'll never see in your first pair of shoes since your technique is still incredibly sloppy).
The concept that climbing shoes need to be painful is and always was bull shit, but the myth persists.
Don't take a hammer to your Morton's toe, it doesn't work (I know - I tried)!
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hiyapokey
Jul 10, 2012, 1:48 PM
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My girlfriend Kelly just bought shoes online. She got the 5.10 Foxes and loves them. They fit perfectly and by that I mean they are very slightly tight but not uncomfortably so and will stretch a little to be perfectly comfortable. By your login name I imagine you are a guy so I'm not recommending the Foxes, but do suggest you read a lot of reviews on the shoes to get the right size. That is how Kelly came to buy the Foxes a size and a half bigger then her normal sized shoe. My first shoe was the 5.10 spire and they were awesome.
Just read about the Morton's toe and see that I have a mild case. No wonder I like the Keen's I got so much.
(This post was edited by hiyapokey on Jul 10, 2012, 1:54 PM)
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marc801
Jul 10, 2012, 4:55 PM
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hiyapokey wrote: ...but do suggest you read a lot of reviews on the shoes to get the right size.
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curt
Jul 10, 2012, 5:03 PM
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RhinoD wrote: Hello. I'm a beginner that is starting at a gym that primarily has bouldering. When I search for Morton Toe shoes I primarily get shown $130 Optimus Prime shoes. Does anyone have a recommendation for some less aggressive/more comfortable symmetrical beginner shoes for bouldering and vertical? Also would appreciate if you know how true to size your recommendation is. Thanks for the help!!!
Try something cheap and with more of a rounded toe. Mad Rock Phoenix shoes fit me pretty well, and my middle toes are about 1/4 inch longer than my big toes.
Curt
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RhinoD
Jul 10, 2012, 5:23 PM
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This is all great information. Thank you. The only downside for me is the local store selection of shoes to try on is so minimal. I'll figure something out. You have all given me a good start.
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bearbreeder
Jul 10, 2012, 7:13 PM
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if you cant try em on i suggest somewhere with an extremely generous return policy ... such as backcountry ... or REI if you have a close one ... u might pay a bit more, but u can return it anytime
once you get the model and fit dialed in, order away at the discount sites for yr next pair 
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USnavy
Jul 10, 2012, 11:28 PM
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Look for a shoe with a symmetrical toe box. If you only have a mild case, a semi-asymmetrical profile may fit you a bet better. Visit Evolv' site for more info about what I am referencing.
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Marylandclimber
Jul 11, 2012, 11:23 AM
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Mad Rock phoenix I think is a great shoe for beginners.
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jdensign5
Jul 11, 2012, 11:30 AM
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Registered: May 31, 2012
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La Sportiva Mythos!!!
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JohnCook
Jul 12, 2012, 2:21 PM
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Registered: Dec 26, 2006
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Red Chilli Spirit. Chilli have a base in Utah, or you can contact Wild Country (xcalibur@mindspring.com) here in the UK for a list of stockists. My second toe is approx 3/8" bigger than my big toe and I also have an odd foot shape and Chillis work for me.
Always try before you buy with rock shoes.
Get a pair that is tight without hurting, and don't go for aggressive shoes until you are confident you have good footwork!
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chris
Jul 12, 2012, 10:41 PM
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Registered: Feb 4, 2003
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I suffer from Morton's Neuroma as well. FYI - its an inflamed/pinched/irritated nerve between the metatarsal bones, most commonly the 2nd/3rd or 3rd/4th.
I'm still working on a final resolution, but in the meanwhile I seek out shoes with wide toe-boxes. For my climbing shoes, I absolutely have to wear shoes with a neutral/flat sole. I simply can't wear reverse-point shoes, even for a short boulder problem.
I've had tremendous luck with 5.10 - I wear their Anasazi velcro and V-mile shoes currently, and just ordered a pair of Huecos and Dascents. I've had other 5.10 models in the past, including a pair of slippers and several models of approach shoes. I've climbed Grade V and 5.11 in these shoes, so I've certainly become pretty brand loyal.
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