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jackweeze


Jul 10, 2012, 8:36 PM
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Advice on a high-performance non-downturned shoe?
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Hey gang, I am a relatively new poster here but I've lurked for awhile. I would like advice on a shoe that can smear decently or well, and is not downturned (well, I guess that sort of goes with the smearing). I currently have Vapor Vs which I love, but they are really more geared for bouldering and overhanging sport climbs.

I would like a shoe that's good for slab, and again, a decent or good smearer. Most shoes these days seem to be downturned. I have been looking at Anasazis. Would these be a good direction to go? The Vapor Vs are somewhat sensitive so i was thinking maybe going stiffer, like with what the 5.10 Verdes seem to be. Or maybe the Blancos? My foot is average width and arch.

Really any advice would be greatly appreciated. I want a shoe to complement my Vapor Vs, so I have options. I can shell out money for whatever I get, as I have been saving up and plan to wear them for a long time (with resoles--that's why I want to make sure to get the right shoe). I do not want to go cheap--I want as good a shoe as I can get for my purpose. Oh, and vertical crack climbing is not something I really ever do, so the shoe need not be good at cracks.

Thanks!


(This post was edited by jackweeze on Jul 10, 2012, 8:38 PM)


shotwell


Jul 11, 2012, 5:04 AM
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jackweeze wrote:
Hey gang, I am a relatively new poster here but I've lurked for awhile. I would like advice on a shoe that can smear decently or well, and is not downturned (well, I guess that sort of goes with the smearing). I currently have Vapor Vs which I love, but they are really more geared for bouldering and overhanging sport climbs.

I would like a shoe that's good for slab, and again, a decent or good smearer. Most shoes these days seem to be downturned. I have been looking at Anasazis. Would these be a good direction to go? The Vapor Vs are somewhat sensitive so i was thinking maybe going stiffer, like with what the 5.10 Verdes seem to be. Or maybe the Blancos? My foot is average width and arch.

Really any advice would be greatly appreciated. I want a shoe to complement my Vapor Vs, so I have options. I can shell out money for whatever I get, as I have been saving up and plan to wear them for a long time (with resoles--that's why I want to make sure to get the right shoe). I do not want to go cheap--I want as good a shoe as I can get for my purpose. Oh, and vertical crack climbing is not something I really ever do, so the shoe need not be good at cracks.

Thanks!

If you're really looking for a smearing shoe, I would look into a softer slipper. LaSportiva makes the Cobra (which may appear downturned but won't be for a hot minute) and 5.10 makes the Moccasym. Both smear well, but won't edge worth a damn.


granite_grrl


Jul 11, 2012, 5:56 AM
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shotwell wrote:
jackweeze wrote:
Hey gang, I am a relatively new poster here but I've lurked for awhile. I would like advice on a shoe that can smear decently or well, and is not downturned (well, I guess that sort of goes with the smearing). I currently have Vapor Vs which I love, but they are really more geared for bouldering and overhanging sport climbs.

I would like a shoe that's good for slab, and again, a decent or good smearer. Most shoes these days seem to be downturned. I have been looking at Anasazis. Would these be a good direction to go? The Vapor Vs are somewhat sensitive so i was thinking maybe going stiffer, like with what the 5.10 Verdes seem to be. Or maybe the Blancos? My foot is average width and arch.

Really any advice would be greatly appreciated. I want a shoe to complement my Vapor Vs, so I have options. I can shell out money for whatever I get, as I have been saving up and plan to wear them for a long time (with resoles--that's why I want to make sure to get the right shoe). I do not want to go cheap--I want as good a shoe as I can get for my purpose. Oh, and vertical crack climbing is not something I really ever do, so the shoe need not be good at cracks.

Thanks!

If you're really looking for a smearing shoe, I would look into a softer slipper. LaSportiva makes the Cobra (which may appear downturned but won't be for a hot minute) and 5.10 makes the Moccasym. Both smear well, but won't edge worth a damn.

Or something soft, but not quite as soft as something like Mocc. I have a pair of Boreal Cruxes I really like, soft, sensitive and smears well. Obviously these aren't going to be amazing edging shoes, but I don't think you'll find a show that is amazing for edging and for smearing.

Of course there are also old fall backs like the Anasazi Velcro. Haven't worn them for years (never really fit my foot that well) but I recall them being quite good smedging shoes.


redlude97


Jul 11, 2012, 8:49 AM
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try the scarpa techno or force


bearbreeder


Jul 11, 2012, 9:46 AM
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the qualities you are looking for are basically what people look for in thin crack shoes ...

i use katanas for that purpose ... but its whatever fits yr feet ...


scottb


Jul 11, 2012, 10:25 AM
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jackweeze wrote:
I have been looking at Anasazis. Would these be a good direction to go?

Yes! If they fit your feet well, you will be very happy with them.


Partner cracklover


Jul 11, 2012, 12:35 PM
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scottb wrote:
jackweeze wrote:
I have been looking at Anasazis. Would these be a good direction to go?

Yes! If they fit your feet well, you will be very happy with them.

+1


acorneau


Jul 11, 2012, 1:45 PM
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shotwell wrote:
If you're really looking for a smearing shoe, I would look into a softer slipper.


This ^^^, and add the LS Mythos to the list.


eric_k


Jul 11, 2012, 2:48 PM
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I think the Sportiva TC Pro fits your description well. They are NOT cheap, but I have a pair and they work very well for smearing and cracks. This is what they were designed for. I have not needed to yet, but I imagine they will resole very well. I sized mine big enough to be comfortable all day, and they are still sensitive enough to for technical climbs where delicate footwork is needed. Might be worth a look.

Eric


shotwell


Jul 11, 2012, 3:53 PM
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eric_k wrote:
I think the Sportiva TC Pro fits your description well. They are NOT cheap, but I have a pair and they work very well for smearing and cracks. This is what they were designed for. I have not needed to yet, but I imagine they will resole very well. I sized mine big enough to be comfortable all day, and they are still sensitive enough to for technical climbs where delicate footwork is needed. Might be worth a look.

Eric

I was under the impression the TC Pro was designed for edging and crack work. This seems to be implied by the XS Edge rubber found on the soles.

Regardless, they are far stiffer than the Cobra if that is what you are interested in.


jackweeze


Jul 11, 2012, 5:16 PM
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thanks everyone for all the replies and advice. I thought about the TC Pros, but everything I've read implies that they are basically made for cracks, and like I said, I really never crack climb. Also, while I said money is not an issue for my purchase, I was thinking more like <$150, where TC Pro are literally the most expensive shoe out there. Sorry for being lenient with my stated parameters.

The Katanas are an interesting recommendation. My first shoe was the Nago which was way too wide for me, so I'm forever a little shy about getting Sportiva--though I know that's probably something I'll have to get over.

Also, I suppose I didn't really think about that an edging slab shoe is pretty different than a typical smearing shoe. The Katana Velcros (VCS) were also an interesting recommendation as they seem to do a little of both.

What are your guys's (wow, that is grammatically awkward) preferred shoes for non-crack, non-overhanging routes? Do any of you use a non-downturned shoe as your go-to shoe on these types of climbs?


shotwell


Jul 11, 2012, 5:48 PM
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jackweeze wrote:
thanks everyone for all the replies and advice. I thought about the TC Pros, but everything I've read implies that they are basically made for cracks, and like I said, I really never crack climb. Also, while I said money is not an issue for my purchase, I was thinking more like <$150, where TC Pro are literally the most expensive shoe out there. Sorry for being lenient with my stated parameters.

The Katanas are an interesting recommendation. My first shoe was the Nago which was way too wide for me, so I'm forever a little shy about getting Sportiva--though I know that's probably something I'll have to get over.

Also, I suppose I didn't really think about that an edging slab shoe is pretty different than a typical smearing shoe. The Katana Velcros (VCS) were also an interesting recommendation as they seem to do a little of both.

What are your guys's (wow, that is grammatically awkward) preferred shoes for non-crack, non-overhanging routes? Do any of you use a non-downturned shoe as your go-to shoe on these types of climbs?

I wear the Katana Lace for most face routes. Downturned and stiff, but sensitive and precise. They work equally well on vertical edging nightmares and powerful overhanging crimpers.

Only if I know I'll be doing a lot of smearing will I throw something softer on. They are really a great shoe if you can overcome your desire for them to be flat lasted.

Edit: For the record, they would be pretty similar to your Vapors. If you're really interested in a flat lasted, edging oriented shoe, you should demo one. You'll probably like what you have just fine if you give them a chance.


(This post was edited by shotwell on Jul 11, 2012, 5:50 PM)


shockabuku


Jul 11, 2012, 5:50 PM
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Try on the Sportiva lace Miura. Does almost everything well and is considerably more narrow than the Katana. The downturn doesn't last unless you get them overly tight.


jackweeze


Jul 11, 2012, 5:59 PM
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thanks. Both recommending the Miura laces is intersting because those were recently recommended very highly to me. What made me first start thinking about a flat-lasted shoe is that I was climbing last week and at one point needed to smear the hell out of a wall with my Vapor Vs, so much so that my toes were pretty much fully pushed up. It was clear that this was just about the opposite of what the shoe was supposed to be for, and it also looked like it would really damage the downturn.

The miuras laces sound like a great shoe, but even if they do mellow out in terms of downturn, would they likely suffer damage if I have to smear with them, or would they hurt if I smear? Also, how should one size them?


Partner cracklover


Jul 12, 2012, 8:47 AM
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jackweeze wrote:
The Katanas are an interesting recommendation. My first shoe was the Nago which was way too wide for me, so I'm forever a little shy about getting Sportiva--though I know that's probably something I'll have to get over.

Too wide where? I'm not familiar with the Nago, but I should tell you that Sportiva is known for building shoes for narrow feet. So 1 - if you have narrow feet, you need to get over your aversion of Sportivas, and 2 - if you have narrow feet, you should probably forget about something like the Fiveten Anasazi, which, while it is exactly the type for what you describe, is best for a wider foot.

Have you tried on the Sportiva Mythos?

GO


Parkerkat


Jul 12, 2012, 10:17 AM
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do not listen to anyone telling you that the TC pros are only crack shoes (like saying a sports car will only work on a race track) - yes they were designed with some of that in mind, but I climb in southern ontario, mostly face climbs, very little crack here... Frankly my TC pros work perfectly on face and slab. They're comfortable, moreso than any other shoe I've worn save for the trad masters(they still make those?) and they've worked well in every situation I've needed them for - slab, veritical, overhangs etc. The high top lace ups allow for a really well tuned fit and they're durable! I've worn virually every shoe sold in canada and I would buy my TC Pros a hundred times over now that I have them. Only thing they suck at is the gym, too many laces for easy on-offs.

Cheers!


Kartessa


Jul 12, 2012, 10:36 AM
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shockabuku wrote:
Try on the Sportiva lace Miura. Does almost everything well and is considerably more narrow than the Katana. The downturn doesn't last unless you get them overly tight.

^^^ What he said


Kartessa


Jul 12, 2012, 10:38 AM
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jackweeze wrote:
thanks. Both recommending the Miura laces is intersting because those were recently recommended very highly to me. What made me first start thinking about a flat-lasted shoe is that I was climbing last week and at one point needed to smear the hell out of a wall with my Vapor Vs, so much so that my toes were pretty much fully pushed up. It was clear that this was just about the opposite of what the shoe was supposed to be for, and it also looked like it would really damage the downturn.

The miuras laces sound like a great shoe, but even if they do mellow out in terms of downturn, would they likely suffer damage if I have to smear with them, or would they hurt if I smear? Also, how should one size them?

Miura laces stretch like a MOFO so size them like you would a normal climbing shoe (I go a half size down from "all day-comfy") and they should work like a charm when smearing and even edging.

I find crack climbing in them is excruciating, but YMMV


shockabuku


Jul 12, 2012, 1:07 PM
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I would get them snug but without my toes fully curled (partial curl is ok). They'll stretch some, but I didn't think a lot (compared to the Mythos which stretches tremendously). If you get them with your toes fully curled they probably won't smear as well or crack climb very comfortably.

When new they will definitely put pressure on your toes while smearing but that will stretch out a little. My Miura lace ups are my favorite shoe for vertical walls and edging, and the toe is tremendously precise. It works well for slab climbing - probably only second to a really soft shoe like the Moccasym.


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