Hey Camhat, I think I finally found the replacement for katanas. I got some Scarpa Vapor Velcorz and they are awesome. Wide forefoot. They have the same front velcro fold over the outside of the foot as katanas so no good for cracks but as a face velcro shoe they are great, wider toebox which fits my foot.

Different, more asym shape than the Force or Feroce.

those spray battles can really escalate. you don't wuntz to be around for that.

We've been moving more and more away from stiffy shooz. My katanas were made for Xzzz, but I barely wore them. Just like sensitive floppy shoes better. Seems if your feet are strong enough, you don't need edges as much.

I hate standing on small stuff in floppy shoes. Part of the issue is that I have sweaty feet, which will slide and roll more in a softer shoe.

Headed back down to SoUT in a couple days. Oh, and Jack, I scored a power drill! Time to bolt some carcks!

Just had Fluff for the first time... WTF!!!!!

I can still feel it making its way to my stomach even after 20 minutes.


...and yes, I will resist eating the rest and keep my slim koala look.

Headed back down to SoUT in a couple days. Oh, and Jack, I scored a power drill! Time to bolt some carcks!

Cornelius biting down on Power Lust

Durp. I know exactly what incident broke the ball joint. My truck rolled into a curb about 4 days earlier.

back from Xzzz. Was pretty mellow for the most part. Dribble got some good OSs and one good RP. I onsighted a hard climb that ticked off an entire wall, woo!

back from Xzzz. Was pretty mellow for the most part. Dribble got some good OSs and one good RP. I onsighted a hard climb that ticked off an entire wall, woo!

This is the lamest TR EVAR! I think I prefer a good sprayshower, after all.

And I don't know what dribble was smoking, but I one-hung Behemoth 1st go and thought it was way easier than Center El Shinto. Don't know if I can make the move without hanging first right now, because it is a high right sidepull, but that route is super fun. And the trophy at the top is still funny.

This is the lamest TR EVAR! I think I prefer a good sprayshower, after all.

And I don't know what dribble was smoking, but I one-hung Behemoth 1st go and thought it was way easier than Center El Shinto. Don't know if I can make the move without hanging first right now, because it is a high right sidepull, but that route is super fun. And the trophy at the top is still funny.

I was dissapointed at the less than comprehensive TR asswell.

Man this thread fuckin sucks.

Be extra careful loading that thing into the back of your truck. You're at 75% capacity for windows.

Man this thread fuckin sucks.

Ok, more comprehensive and completely accurate trip report:

We rolled into Xzzz around 9pm on day 1, loaded with food, beers, mesh backed hats, and a working ball joint. Team East Coast was already there at the pay site: Banz, Lena, Banz's old climbing mentor, and a few others that we knew a bit or not at all. Hung out, crashed in their campsite that night in the back of the taco, since we didn't want to mess with finding the upper free sites in the dark.

Next morning, we go set up camp at a gneiss free spot. It was the last open site, and someone had left an old sun shower on a rock there, but I figured, "booty, not fixed gear." Got the tent up, Dribble got mad at me for making a quip about easterners wanting to stay at pay sites and shit in real toilets.

Went and climbed at a mediocre area, and had to help deal with a dude who had a seizure at the bottom of the cliff. Got him evacked, did a couple routes, and I convinced Banz and Lena to come to a nice afternoon shade crag. They almost didn't come, since Banz's mentor refused to hike more than five minutes, but we convinced them to come. Banz complained about the hike, then saw the rock quality at Mondo Crag and declared that he was never climbing anywhere else. FTW!

Did a couple routes, then Lena and Banz flashed this cool one one plus plus. Dribble almost sent, but got hosed down by bad beta about not clipping from some hold that was actually not even that bad. Next thing we know, I'm climbing, and I see this dirty hippy with a big fricking beard come by that dribble's talking to, and I'm thinking, "who the hell is that guy?" Turns out it was Doc.

Went back to our camp, and were confronted by an angry Iowan who was like "Didn't you see my stuff here?" I think he thought that his one empty sun shower was enough to mark his territory. Then I realized that he was probably this friend of Tony's (our gym owner), so I diffused the situation by dropping his name.

Dribble then quietly mumbled "when unfamiliar Indians would meet each other on the trail, they would secure peace relations by establishing kinship ties; and seeing who they both were related to." This is what we did, and the guy turned out to be cool with us camping at his place. Mosquitos were really bad that night, and in one of my desperation attempts to clean shit up while being bitten, I accidentally the front window of my taco topper with a hammer drill. The whole thing.

Next morning we chilled and read while we waited for the carg to go in the shade by noon or so. Decided to move camp, because of the mosquitos and not wanting to infringe on Iowan with the rest of our crew that was coming up. Got a way better camp.

Climbed the climbz, Dribble decided that she hated limestone, I almost onsighted a hard 12b, but was psyched I did that well after a month off or whatever. Met a cool v14 cockroach at the crag named Moosmuller. I guess his parents were pretty badass climbers in the Renob area back in the 80s. See Eye, Jackhole, you guys recognize that name?

Rest day, street dance, rodeo. Then went up to the Shinto Wall, where the spray fest with the route developer occured. He was a bit butthurt at s suggesting that the first bultz were so low that they didnt do any good. Unfortunately, he did not stick around to see me onsite his soft 12c. However, I did embarrass dribble by a-bit-too-loudly yelling "Woo, I onsited Shinto Wall!" when I clipped the anchors, and a well-know pro-tard climber was in earshot. Whatevah, I do not geev a SHEET.

Dribble took two runs on a rad line called Center Shinto, techy 12b. Never got all the moves, continued to call Xzzz a chossheap, and finally left with a fiernd to get ice cream. On the way down later, I came across a rubber boa, a badass and kind of rare species of snake. Made my day, WOO!

Next day, we took Banz and Lena up to Shinto, although Banz's mentor refused to go, and it seems that Banz has a this weird fixation with being a perma-sub for the guy. All he kept doing was complaining about appraoches, getting butthurt at being left, then only wanting to climb 2 routes a day. We wished Jackhole was here to tell him the truth about his lameness.

Banz set up rigging to shoot pics of Dribble on center Shinto, then we got cut in really quick by a boulderite who promised to be fast, right before hangdogging for 45 minutes. Even more hilarious and obnoxious, his terrible cunt of a belayer alternated between cupping Banz's balls since he is a pro photog, and being rude to Dribble for waiting in line after her. Fucking Boulderites. Dribble then sent the rig in pure pissed off anger style, and declared that limestone was not as bad as it thought it was.

That's about it. Last day we mostly did easier stuff, team clamhat both flashed this 12a called Cocaine Rodeo, which may have been my favorite route of the trip. Dribble drove to the Denver airport with a friend, and I guess that the East Coast crüe is still there, but I've got to go back to SoUt and bolt some cracks. That is awl.

hah. That's great banz gets cupped for being a pro while drizzle is dissed by the 'fast' boulderites.

Yeah, I have seen urs around over the years, usually on really hard stuff at Donner summit. I think he is now a boulderite as well.

hah. That's great banz gets cupped for being a pro while drizzle is dissed by the 'fast' boulderites.

Yeah, I have seen urs around over the years, usually on really hard stuff at Donner summit. I think he is now a boulderite as well.

Urs is cool, but i thought he was denverite? He and his friend were at Superratic when we were there. His friend sent, urs fell on the last move of his sick project, but he was a good sprot about it. JEALUS of his 9-minth climbing trip!

Oh, and team clamhat, good jorb on Cocaine Rodeo. I was really bummed yesterday... went through the bottom without a hitch first go, cruising most of the route... and then got to a high right sidepulley pinch, maybe one draw from the top? And that was the end. :( Such a bummer, bc Banz convinced me that if I went through the bottom and the first bulge cleanly, that would be the end of the hard stuff. And it was really true... except for my stupid gimpy arm. Banz fell on the bottom twice before sending, btw.