|
njrox
Jul 13, 2012, 12:06 PM
Post #1 of 13
(4921 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 12, 2011
Posts: 251
|
Hi, looking for a comfy approach shoe for cold weather climbing on 5.easy northeast (NJ/NY/PA) rock. Something I can wear with warm socks, something comfortable to stand in at a belay ledge, something good enough to climb >5.8-9. Thanks!
Opinions on any of these. (or something >$120)
LA SPORTIVA BOULDER X
PATAGONIA CRAGMASTER
FIVE TEN GUIDE TENNIE CANVAS *leaning to this one
|
|
|
|
|
ninepointeight
Jul 16, 2012, 4:33 AM
Post #2 of 13
(4801 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 14, 2012
Posts: 102
|
You mixed up your > with <. 
|
|
|
|
|
lena_chita
Moderator
Jul 16, 2012, 7:33 AM
Post #3 of 13
(4781 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 27, 2006
Posts: 6087
|
njrox wrote: Hi, looking for a comfy approach shoe for cold weather climbing on 5.easy northeast (NJ/NY/PA) rock. Something I can wear with warm socks, something comfortable to stand in at a belay ledge, something good enough to climb >5.8-9. Thanks! Opinions on any of these. (or something >$120) LA SPORTIVA BOULDER X PATAGONIA CRAGMASTER FIVE TEN GUIDE TENNIE CANVAS *leaning to this one
I have climbed 5.9 in Five Ten Tennies (the leather ones, which they, unfortunately, don't make anymore. I still can't figure out why... IMO< way better than canvas!). But it was a wide crack that happened to be the perfect width for the shoes. I believe that it would have been actually harder to do in climbing shoes.
I have both the Five Ten Tennies and the La Sportiva BoulderX, and I much prefer the Tennies as the approach shoe. Lighter-weight, more comfortable on my foot. YMMW, of course, because your foot may be shaped differently.
However, even though I said I have climbed in the tennies, I would not use either shoes for climbing anything >5.8-5.9 on a regular basis. I climbed in them because I left my shoes and my pack elsewhere, and didn't feel like going back at the time.
Maybe if you were to climb 5.13+ comfortably, climbing 5.9+ in approach shoes would be no big deal. But otherwise... not a good idea.
|
|
|
|
|
njrox
Jul 16, 2012, 10:34 AM
Post #4 of 13
(4752 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 12, 2011
Posts: 251
|
The story with the shoes is earlier this year I was standing on a small belay ledge, freezing, in a pair of rock shoes and no socks. Hoping not to repeat that again, I was looking for a more comfortable and warmer/thicker shoe to wear while on a multi-pitch. If I'm single-pitch climbing, I can jump in and out of fuzzy bunny slippers. But if I'm going up for an hour-plus, carrying a rack, I'm not bringing up another an extra pair of shoes too.
I climb mucho easy on multi-pitch. 5.9 is about my skill limit so my leads/follows are going to be less than 5.5.
|
|
|
|
|
iknowfear
Jul 16, 2012, 11:16 AM
Post #5 of 13
(4747 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 8, 2004
Posts: 669
|
njrox wrote: Hi, looking for a comfy approach shoe for cold weather climbing on 5.easy northeast (NJ/NY/PA) rock. Something I can wear with warm socks, something comfortable to stand in at a belay ledge, something good enough to climb >5.8-9. Thanks! Opinions on any of these. (or something >$120) LA SPORTIVA BOULDER X PATAGONIA CRAGMASTER FIVE TEN GUIDE TENNIE CANVAS *leaning to this one
depending on the climb you could just go for mountaineering boots... they would be better suited for climbing than approach shoes.
|
|
|
|
|
acorneau
Jul 17, 2012, 7:01 PM
Post #6 of 13
(4682 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 6, 2008
Posts: 2889
|
Here ya go...
|
|
|
|
|
mr_rogers
Jul 18, 2012, 8:52 AM
Post #8 of 13
(4619 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 8, 2006
Posts: 57
|
njrox wrote: The story with the shoes is earlier this year I was standing on a small belay ledge, freezing, in a pair of rock shoes and no socks. Hoping not to repeat that again, I was looking for a more comfortable and warmer/thicker shoe to wear while on a multi-pitch.
Cold-weather, multi-pitch in the NE? Just get a pair of Mythos or similar laced shoe sized a bit too big and wear them with warm socks. Either walk down in the climbing shoes or suck it up and carry an extra pair of shoes to walk-off in.
If 5.9 is your limit, you might find even easier terrain to be sketchier than you'd like in approach shoes. I've climbed up to around 5.8 in a pair of guide-tennies, and while it worked, it did not "feel" like 5.8.
Edit: I've also climbed up to about 5.7 in mountaineering boots (Nepal Evos), I would have preferred approach shoes.
(This post was edited by mr_rogers on Jul 18, 2012, 8:55 AM)
|
|
|
|
|
arineod
Jul 18, 2012, 9:01 AM
Post #9 of 13
(4614 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 23, 2011
Posts: 6
|
Like iknowfear stated... a mountaineering boot might be a good idea. If not, I wear the La Sportiva Boulder X and they seem to always perform well for me and they keep my feet plenty warm with a good pair of socks. I haven't tried many approach shoes and can't compare the boulder x to any other shoe but the boulder x shoe does what I need it to do and gets me up 5.9's easy. They have good sticky soles
|
|
|
|
|
njrox
Jul 18, 2012, 10:25 AM
Post #10 of 13
(4591 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 12, 2011
Posts: 251
|
lol @ the sleeping bag boots. 
I have a pair of Scarpa Inverno mountaineering boots. They're great with crampons attached to them, but as far as boot-on-rock I can't imagine them smearing, resting on edges, or fitting into thin cracks.
I took another look at the Boulder X shoes on Amazon and noticed that on the bottom of the shoe up around the toe there's about an inch of rubber which I imagine would work well for toe-smearing. They look a little beefy, but I'm reading reviews on the web where they've been used on easier rock climbs.
Still looking guys. Suggestions appreciated.
|
|
|
|
|
acorneau
Jul 18, 2012, 11:02 AM
Post #11 of 13
(4582 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 6, 2008
Posts: 2889
|
njrox wrote: Still looking guys. Suggestions appreciated.
Maybe a pair of LS Ganda's sized to wear with thick socks.
|
|
|
|
|
billcoe_
Jul 18, 2012, 3:26 PM
Post #12 of 13
(4550 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 30, 2002
Posts: 4692
|
5.10 Guide Tennies.
I've tried about 7 others, those are #1.
that is all.
|
|
|
|
|
lena_chita
Moderator
Jul 23, 2012, 6:51 AM
Post #13 of 13
(4377 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 27, 2006
Posts: 6087
|
njrox wrote: lol @ the sleeping bag boots. I have a pair of Scarpa Inverno mountaineering boots. They're great with crampons attached to them, but as far as boot-on-rock I can't imagine them smearing, resting on edges, or fitting into thin cracks. I took another look at the Boulder X shoes on Amazon and noticed that on the bottom of the shoe up around the toe there's about an inch of rubber which I imagine would work well for toe-smearing. They look a little beefy, but I'm reading reviews on the web where they've been used on easier rock climbs. Still looking guys. Suggestions appreciated.
I don't know why you are laughing at the down booties. Really...
|
|
|
|
|
|
