Forums: Climbing Information: Regional Discussions:
Sport climbing the grotto
RSS FeedRSS Feeds for Regional Discussions

Premier Sponsor:

 


Patrick12


Jul 16, 2012, 12:50 PM
Post #1 of 11 (1649 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jul 16, 2012
Posts: 4

Sport climbing the grotto  (North_America: Canada: Ontario: Central_Ontario: Bruce_Peninsula_National_Park)
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Would Parks Canada be upset if someone bolted routes around the Grotto? Like maybe the roof section and a few others? Does anyone know?


dan2see


Jul 16, 2012, 2:53 PM
Post #2 of 11 (1615 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Mar 28, 2006
Posts: 1497

Re: [Patrick12] Sport climbing the grotto [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Here's a picture, on Google Earth:

Inside the Grotto


Kartessa


Jul 16, 2012, 8:46 PM
Post #3 of 11 (1573 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 17, 2008
Posts: 7356

Re: [Patrick12] Sport climbing the grotto [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (4 ratings)  
Can't Post

Patrick12 wrote:
Would Parks Canada be upset if someone bolted routes around the Grotto? Like maybe the roof section and a few others? Does anyone know?

Yes, they would mind. If you have doubts, contact the park and ask.

Don't you dare go all guerilla bolting up there, access is fucked up enough in Ontario without stunts like that.


Patrick12


Jul 17, 2012, 5:08 AM
Post #4 of 11 (1546 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jul 16, 2012
Posts: 4

Re: [Kartessa] Sport climbing the grotto [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

i wasn't planning on doing anything without asking the parks. that's also why I posted in here just to find out for sure. Relax don't worry


Kartessa


Jul 17, 2012, 5:14 AM
Post #5 of 11 (1544 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 17, 2008
Posts: 7356

Re: [Patrick12] Sport climbing the grotto [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (1 rating)  
Can't Post

Patrick12 wrote:
i wasn't planning on doing anything without asking the parks. that's also why I posted in here just to find out for sure. Relax don't worry

Don't forget to check in with the OAC... If you get the ok from the park, I'm sure they would love to know about it.


Patrick12


Jul 17, 2012, 5:18 AM
Post #6 of 11 (1542 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jul 16, 2012
Posts: 4

Re: [Kartessa] Sport climbing the grotto [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

okay cool, thanks. And yeah I don't want to make climbing around here more difficult


Kartessa


Jul 17, 2012, 6:07 AM
Post #7 of 11 (1537 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 17, 2008
Posts: 7356

Re: [Patrick12] Sport climbing the grotto [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (1 rating)  
Can't Post

Patrick12 wrote:
okay cool, thanks. And yeah I don't want to make climbing around here more difficult

Then as a general rule, never bolt without asking. There are exceptions, but best to stick to it until you know the ins and outs.


granite_grrl


Jul 17, 2012, 12:29 PM
Post #8 of 11 (1499 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 25, 2002
Posts: 14713

Re: [Kartessa] Sport climbing the grotto [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Kartessa wrote:
Patrick12 wrote:
okay cool, thanks. And yeah I don't want to make climbing around here more difficult

Then as a general rule, never bolt without asking. There are exceptions, but best to stick to it until you know the ins and outs.

You're getting a lot of one stars, but the fact of the matter is that this is the truth of putting up routes in Ontario.

I'm going to go out on a limb here and say that the OP hasn't had an experienced bolter in the province show him the ins and outs of bolting. Ontario limestone can be tricky buisness to bolt and that rock looks much trickier than usual. Looks like it would take a lot of cleaning and reinforcing so make something safe. Expansion bolts are also probably a poor option.


dan2see


Jul 17, 2012, 8:26 PM
Post #9 of 11 (1472 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Mar 28, 2006
Posts: 1497

Re: [granite_grrl] Sport climbing the grotto [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

granite_grrl wrote:
Kartessa wrote:
Patrick12 wrote:
okay cool, thanks. And yeah I don't want to make climbing around here more difficult

Then as a general rule, never bolt without asking. There are exceptions, but best to stick to it until you know the ins and outs.

You're getting a lot of one stars, but the fact of the matter is that this is the truth of putting up routes in Ontario.

I'm going to go out on a limb here and say that the OP hasn't had an experienced bolter in the province show him the ins and outs of bolting. Ontario limestone can be tricky buisness to bolt and that rock looks much trickier than usual. Looks like it would take a lot of cleaning and reinforcing so make something safe. Expansion bolts are also probably a poor option.

All of the limestone near the water is weathering, and everything you can touch is flaking off.

In fact, that's how this grotto was formed: It's originally a coral reef, filled-in with limestone. Then water and ice chewed out the limestone, leaving shelves and arches of petrified coral. Wave action scoured the pieces of stone, which are now 100 meters below that lovely blue water. It's still chipping and flaking, and I think that bolting it safely is impossible.

One warm sunny day, I visited here with my daughter, who was just learning to climb and belay. We both tried climbing the grotto. It has lots of big holds, although mostly slopers, and slimey. We'd climb till we fell into the water. She made it onto the top coral arch, under the roof (almost visible in the photo above). But there's no way down. So she plunged into the pool. It was great fun!

(Edit to add...)
No we did not swim out that cool blue inviting hole in the wall.


(This post was edited by dan2see on Jul 17, 2012, 8:27 PM)


splish


Jul 23, 2012, 2:19 PM
Post #10 of 11 (1374 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 21, 2005
Posts: 140

Re: [Patrick12] Sport climbing the grotto [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Patrick12 wrote:
Would Parks Canada be upset if someone bolted routes around the Grotto? Like maybe the roof section and a few others? Does anyone know?

The Grotto would be a huge issue. I climb, but I am also an avid backpacker. Not only would Canada Parks have a problem, but I imagine the Bruce Trail Org would be all over your ass.

I wouldn't even dare walk into that place with a drill without calling at least 7 different organizations first.

The Grotto is a main advertising and selling point for the Bruce Trail Org, and not 100% sure, but I believe it falls in their jurisdiction under the Escarpment Protection Act, or whatever it is called.


Patrick12


Jul 24, 2012, 8:16 PM
Post #11 of 11 (1318 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jul 16, 2012
Posts: 4

Re: [splish] Sport climbing the grotto [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Okay thanks, ya I wouldn't try it without permission and ya I know its a big deal so it won't be easy but thanks


Forums : Climbing Information : Regional Discussions

 


Search for (options)

Log In:

Username:
Password: Remember me:

Go Register
Go Lost Password?



Follow us on Twiter Become a Fan on Facebook