Forums: Climbing Information: Gear Heads:
Prusik
RSS FeedRSS Feeds for Gear Heads

Premier Sponsor:

 


Joho


Jul 24, 2012, 11:05 AM
Post #1 of 8 (1818 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Feb 19, 2012
Posts: 11

Prusik
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

hey guys,
I have a question, I just got into multi-pitch climbing and I would like to hear your recommendations on what diameter size of a prusik chord I should use when equalizing anchors.
Thanks for your help,
Johannes


njrox


Jul 24, 2012, 11:08 AM
Post #2 of 8 (1815 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 12, 2011
Posts: 251

Re: [Joho] Prusik [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

My Prusik cord for rappelling is 5mm.

My Cordelette for anchor building is 7mm.


Kartessa


Jul 24, 2012, 11:11 AM
Post #3 of 8 (1813 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 17, 2008
Posts: 7358

Re: [Joho] Prusik [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Joho wrote:
hey guys,
I have a question, I just got into multi-pitch climbing and I would like to hear your recommendations on what diameter size of a prusik chord I should use when equalizing anchors.
Thanks for your help,
Johannes

Ditto


majid_sabet


Jul 24, 2012, 11:32 AM
Post #4 of 8 (1793 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 12, 2002
Posts: 8352

Re: [Joho] Prusik [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (2 ratings)  
Can't Post

Joho wrote:
hey guys,
I have a question, I just got into multi-pitch climbing and I would like to hear your recommendations on what diameter size of a prusik chord I should use when equalizing anchors.
Thanks for your help,
Johannes


Generally, a prusik diameter needs to be between 50% to 70% of the diameter of the rope you are going to use it on and 70% is the most common way to go.

So on 11 mm rope, you use 7 or 8 mm

on smaller rope, 9-11 mm then 6 or 7mm

you could use 6mm on any size rope but they are not rated for major shock load or drop test.


you want your anchor to be as static as possible and in event of a shock load , a three loop prusiks can slip 6-14 inches around 5-8kn. The extra slippage at the anchor (even few inches)can produce several feet of drop and with more rope in service (rope between belayer and leader ) this can become very dangerous .

For equalizing anchor legs which may take major shock load, prusiks are not recommended.


(This post was edited by majid_sabet on Jul 24, 2012, 11:40 AM)


Joho


Jul 24, 2012, 11:43 AM
Post #5 of 8 (1788 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Feb 19, 2012
Posts: 11

Re: [njrox] Prusik [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

what's the difference between a prusik and a chordelette ?


njrox


Jul 24, 2012, 11:59 AM
Post #6 of 8 (1778 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 12, 2011
Posts: 251

Re: [Joho] Prusik [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Joho wrote:
what's the difference between a prusik and a chordelette ?

when you say prusik, I see this http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Prusik

since you were talking about "equalizing an anchor" I assumed you meant to say cordelette

A cordelette is a long length of thin rope that is used to equalize the load on two to four anchors on belay ledges, on multi-pitch climbs, or atop cliffs for an array of top-rope anchors. A cordelette is simply a 16- to 24-foot length of high-strength 6mm to 7mm perlon rope whose ends are tied together with a double fisherman’s knot. - quick web search definition


jdensign5


Jul 24, 2012, 4:02 PM
Post #7 of 8 (1714 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 31, 2012
Posts: 38

Re: [Joho] Prusik [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

A prussik is a knot used to back up a rappell, a cordelette is a length of cord used to make an anchor.


Partner drector


Jul 24, 2012, 4:16 PM
Post #8 of 8 (1709 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 27, 2002
Posts: 1037

Re: [jdensign5] Prusik [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

jdensign5 wrote:
A prussik is a knot used to back up a rappell, a cordelette is a length of cord used to make an anchor.

A Kleimheist is very common for backing up a rappel. A Prusick is often used to ascend the rope if a mechanical ascender is not handy.

I can't say for sure if these are bends, knots, or hitches.

[edit] Hitches, I think.

Dave


(This post was edited by drector on Jul 24, 2012, 4:28 PM)


Forums : Climbing Information : Gear Heads

 


Search for (options)

Log In:

Username:
Password: Remember me:

Go Register
Go Lost Password?



Follow us on Twiter Become a Fan on Facebook