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Multipitch Sport Routes WA
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Cds26


Jul 24, 2012, 2:32 PM
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Multipitch Sport Routes WA
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Hey, I have done a decent amount of single pitch, and a couple of 2 pitch sport climbs, but am looking to try something a bit longer and more committing, though not necessarily death-defyingly insane. I am wondering where one can find possibly a 3-4, maybe 5 pitch sport route in either Leavenworth or Squamish? Though anywhere in WA state would be helpful. As far as difficulty, probably no more than 5.9, though 5.7/5.8 is more ideal.


alpineape


Jul 24, 2012, 4:44 PM
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Re: [Cds26] Multipitch Sport Routes WA [In reply to]
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For sport in that range, Exit 38 near North Bend would likely be your best bet. There are a few multi-pitch routes that are worthwhile: The Plank is a fun three pitches (5.9, .10a, 5.7), and there are a couple other two pitch climbs in that area worth doing. Leavenworth and Squamish are definitely more trad oriented and what sport climbs there are in those areas tend to be on the stiffer side.


USnavy


Jul 24, 2012, 10:36 PM
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Re: [Cds26] Multipitch Sport Routes WA [In reply to]
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Cds26 wrote:
Hey, I have done a decent amount of single pitch, and a couple of 2 pitch sport climbs, but am looking to try something a bit longer and more committing, though not necessarily death-defyingly insane. I am wondering where one can find possibly a 3-4, maybe 5 pitch sport route in either Leavenworth or Squamish? Though anywhere in WA state would be helpful. As far as difficulty, probably no more than 5.9, though 5.7/5.8 is more ideal.
There is a route on Mt.Garfield called Infinite Bliss, IV 5.10c (R/X). It is a 2600' long bolted slab climb. That is the longest "sport route" in the USA. However, it is not truly sport, there are 80' runouts on it. However, anything harder than 5.7 will be well protected. The real runout stuff is pretty easy, just make sure you stay calm and move carefully, but you can rest at any point as it is all low angle slab.


jamesnater


Aug 10, 2012, 4:17 PM
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Re: [Cds26] Multipitch Sport Routes WA [In reply to]
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Condorphamine Addiction in Leavenworth, WA!

I just climbed this route about 3 - 4 weeks ago. The crux pitches are 10b though, but they are pitch 5 & 6. And you can climb up to pitch 4 only if you want.

It's a 7 pitch slab sport climb. The hike sucks, but not too bad if you do the hike up before 8am before it gets too hot. Watch out for rattlers, they are EVERYWHERE. And there are many game trails too, so try not to get lost like we did. I had so much fun, topping out had me smiling ear-to-ear. The 2nd crux pitch is soooo good!

Here's the summit post topo: http://www.summitpost.org/...ine-addiction/164618


chris


Aug 20, 2012, 7:51 PM
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Re: [Cds26] Multipitch Sport Routes WA [In reply to]
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The Plank is at Mt Erie, not Exit 38. Its a great and adventurous 5.8. There are other link ups and multi-pitch routes at Mt Erie as well.

The only multi-pitch route at Exit 38 is Easy Street (5.6, 2 pitches).

Infinite Bliss IS NOT A SPORT CLIMB. There is a significant route-finding element, especially on the lower 6 pitches and the 120m+ 3rd/4th class section that seems to throw many parties off. It can best be described as a bolted alpine climb.

Condorphamine Addiction is a great climb. The crux pitches are well (arguably over-) bolted (watch out for the z-clip through the crux!). Unfortunately, its also one-of-a-kind. But, as it was mentioned above, you can climb pitches 1-4 at a lower grad and immediately start rapping from the anchors at P4.

Two other great routes are Prime Rib of Goat and the Inspiration Route in Mazama. Both are long (10+ pitches), but you can turn around at any point and rappel the route (which is the normal descent). Prime Rib is 5.9, and Inspiration is 5.9+.

Another option is to head down to Smith (in another month). Where Ever I May Roam (5.9) is one of my favorite multi-pitch climbs there, and the Marsupial Traverse (aka The Wildest Ride in the Park, 5.8, long) is a great "alpine" outing.

But seriously, you need to buckle down and climb trad, or go spend a month in El Portrero (see you there!).


jamesnater


Aug 29, 2012, 3:54 PM
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Re: [chris] Multipitch Sport Routes WA [In reply to]
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I agree the crux pitches on Condorphamine is pretty much a bolt ladder, but still worth it for sure.

There must be more than one "The Plank". Because Exit 38, at the Lost Boys area (all the climbs are peter pan-themed) there is a 3 pitch 10a sport climb.

The lost boys area is relatively new. It's in the 2nd edition guidebook anyway.


healyje


Aug 29, 2012, 4:17 PM
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Re: [chris] Multipitch Sport Routes WA [In reply to]
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chris wrote:
Infinite Bliss IS NOT A SPORT CLIMB.

Yes, it is.

p1 - 5.6 / 120' / 2 bolts
p2 - 5.4 / 110' / 4 bolts
p3 - 5.4 / 100' / 2 bolts
p4 - 5.6 / 100' / 9 bolts
p5 - 5.5 / 110' / 9 bolts
p6 - 5.7 / 160' / 5 bolts
p7 - 5.6 / 190' / 7 bolts (walk)
p8 - 5.5 / 200' / 3 bolts
p9 - 5.9 / 160' / 10 bolts
p10 - 5.8 / 100' / 7 bolts
p11 - 10b / 90' / 9 bolts (walk)
p12 - 5.8 / 110' / 6 bolts
p13 - 5.2 / 130' / 1 bolts
p14 - 5.7 / 160' / 10 bolts
p15 - 5.2 / 160' / 2 bolts
p16 - 5.0 / 80' / 0 bolts
p17 - 5.0 / 140' / 0 bolts
p18 - 5.8 / 110' / 8 bolts
p19 - 10c / 130' / 17 bolts
p20 - 5.7 / 60' / 2 bolts
p21 - 10a / 180' / 15 bolts
p22 - 5.8 / 160' / 11 bolts
p23 - 5.9 / 90' / 14 bolts


redlude97


Aug 29, 2012, 4:28 PM
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Re: [chris] Multipitch Sport Routes WA [In reply to]
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chris wrote:
The only multi-pitch route at Exit 38 is Easy Street (5.6, 2 pitches).
You are forgetting the multiple routes at gunshow at the far side. There is a route at Exit 38 called the plank as well, at neverland. Heck even Deception has a few multipitch routes that have been bolted recently. Some of these you can link though and either do a 2 rope rappel or break into 2 rappels.


chris


Aug 30, 2012, 12:57 AM
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Re: [redlude97] Multipitch Sport Routes WA [In reply to]
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Red and James, you're absolutely right. Interstate Park has a two pitch route as well. I should have grabbed a guidebook before I wagged my mouth.Blush

I've disagreed with Joseph about Infinite Bliss elsewhere. I'm not convinced that simply because it uses bolts for protection, it automatically qualifies as a "sport" climb.


(This post was edited by chris on Aug 30, 2012, 1:06 AM)


USnavy


Aug 30, 2012, 9:13 PM
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Re: [healyje] Multipitch Sport Routes WA [In reply to]
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healyje wrote:
chris wrote:
Infinite Bliss IS NOT A SPORT CLIMB.

Yes, it is.

p1 - 5.6 / 120' / 2 bolts
p2 - 5.4 / 110' / 4 bolts
p3 - 5.4 / 100' / 2 bolts
p4 - 5.6 / 100' / 9 bolts
p5 - 5.5 / 110' / 9 bolts
p6 - 5.7 / 160' / 5 bolts
p7 - 5.6 / 190' / 7 bolts (walk)
p8 - 5.5 / 200' / 3 bolts
p9 - 5.9 / 160' / 10 bolts
p10 - 5.8 / 100' / 7 bolts
p11 - 10b / 90' / 9 bolts (walk)
p12 - 5.8 / 110' / 6 bolts
p13 - 5.2 / 130' / 1 bolts
p14 - 5.7 / 160' / 10 bolts
p15 - 5.2 / 160' / 2 bolts
p16 - 5.0 / 80' / 0 bolts
p17 - 5.0 / 140' / 0 bolts
p18 - 5.8 / 110' / 8 bolts
p19 - 10c / 130' / 17 bolts
p20 - 5.7 / 60' / 2 bolts
p21 - 10a / 180' / 15 bolts
p22 - 5.8 / 160' / 11 bolts
p23 - 5.9 / 90' / 14 bolts
Bullshit. I have climbed IB before. I was 100 feet past my last bolt on the 5.easy sections in the middle. On the lower 5.8 and below pitches, 20-40' runouts are not that uncommon. It is not a sport route; fall in the wrong place and you're are going to get hurt. Basically anything 5.8 or harder will be reasonably protected, anything easier will be runout, anything really easy will be a free solo. Granted yes, the unprotected sections are easy but the rock is a little bit polished, a bit chossy, and it is slab. So you probably wont get pumped out and fall, but you could slip.

I have photos of the runout sections if anyone wants to see them.


(This post was edited by USnavy on Aug 30, 2012, 9:18 PM)


healyje


Aug 31, 2012, 12:16 AM
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Re: [USnavy] Multipitch Sport Routes WA [In reply to]
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How they missed the via ferrata cables on those sections is one of life's enduring mysteries.


areyoumydude


Aug 31, 2012, 3:20 PM
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Re: [USnavy] Multipitch Sport Routes WA [In reply to]
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17 bolts for 130ft of 5.10 climbing? That's not sport climbing, that's wanker climbing.

Besides sport climbing starts at 5.12. Everybody knows that.


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