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ninepointeight
Jul 25, 2012, 2:43 PM
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Registered: May 14, 2012
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I notice most climbers at the Gunks are carrying 7 or 8mm nylon cordlettes. 6mm nylon accessory cord is usually at least 7.5kN. Sterling's product is rated 8.8kN single strand.
If your building anchors with it, doubled up and knotted for each leg, your talking about 11+kN strength per leg of your anchor (13+ for sterling).
Why go bigger?
(This post was edited by ninepointeight on Jul 25, 2012, 2:44 PM)
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acorneau
Jul 25, 2012, 2:53 PM
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ninepointeight wrote: I notice most climbers at the Gunks are carrying 7 or 8mm nylon cordlettes. 6mm nylon accessory cord is usually at least 7.5kN. Sterling's product is rated 8.8kN single strand. If your building anchors with it, doubled up and knotted for each leg, your talking about 11+kN strength per leg of your anchor (13+ for sterling). Why go bigger?
Larger cord will take abuse better. Any rubbing on a rock edge will chew through a smaller cord faster than a larger cord.
That being said, my cordelette is 7mm which I feel is the best compromise between burliness and bulkiness/weight.
I do have a longer 8mm cord which I might take out with me if I know I'll need to set up some top-rope anchors that might be farther back from the edge, but it's not something I carry regularly.
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rgold
Jul 25, 2012, 3:20 PM
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For people who use them all the time, 7mm seems to have become standard because you good strength and resistance to wear. 8mm is ridiculous for multipitch climbing; that's a half-rope diameter nowadays, and probably too big to use effectively for prusiking and other self-rescue operations. As a top-roping anchor in situations where carrying weight and bulk do not matter, the bigger the better I guess.
Personally, I use cordelettes very rarely and consider a 6mm cordelette perfectly adequate for the occasions I use it.
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chris
Aug 7, 2012, 5:52 PM
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rgold wrote: For people who use them all the time, 7mm seems to have become standard because you good strength and resistance to wear. 8mm is ridiculous for multipitch climbing; that's a half-rope diameter nowadays, and probably too big to use effectively for prusiking and other self-rescue operations. As a top-roping anchor in situations where carrying weight and bulk do not matter, the bigger the better I guess. Personally, I use cordelettes very rarely and consider a 6mm cordelette perfectly adequate for the occasions I use it.
Ditto. Plus a 6mm cord rolls up tighter and smaller than 7mm. The cost to replace is so negligible that I don't mind replacing it more often than I would with 7mm.
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