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Jnclk


Jul 27, 2012, 10:27 AM
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brachialis injury?-calling onceahardman
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I have some pain above the elbow joint on the medial side of my right biceps and suspect a brachialis injury. It is definately not at the medial epicondyl. It's at the lowest part of the meat of my biceps approximately an inch above the elbow crease. I first noticed this a couple of days after climbing a thin, overhanging fingercrack (lots of lockoffs and long reaches). Other than getting pumped I did not notice any problems that day.

I've scoured the web and have found very little regarding brachialis injuries other than general RICE principals. I took two weeks off after first noticing the problem and have been climbing conservatively again for the last week. I've started some gentle stretching of the biceps region and have been icing down after climbing. Still have some pain, but it doesn't seem to be getting worse. Once I'm warmed up it feels pretty good albeit I haven't been going full bore. I'm a disciplined PT veteran with reference to other injuries and would like to take the smartest path. Any insight you can provide would be greatly appreciated.


(This post was edited by Jnclk on Jul 27, 2012, 10:33 AM)


Jnclk


Jul 28, 2012, 5:49 AM
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Re: [Jnclk] brachialis injury?-calling onceahardman [In reply to]
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hbusch


Jul 28, 2012, 12:04 PM
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Re: [Jnclk] brachialis injury?-calling onceahardman [In reply to]
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Hi,
my buddy had the same symptoms as you described above and he said, like you, it is not the medial epicondyle but the brachioradialis or the biceps.
He had pain for a very long time but did not stop climbing.
What helped was avoiding cold starts and gentle stretching.
Best recovery
AgeBee


onceahardman


Jul 29, 2012, 4:43 PM
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Re: [Jnclk] brachialis injury?-calling onceahardman [In reply to]
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Haven't been around here much lately.

Assuming it's a muscle strain, relative rest is the normal course of action. Warm up well, don't do things which make it worse. Ice after climbing is not a bad idea.If this turns into a tendinosis, then eccentric strengthening is called for. It can be stubborn,

Good luck.


heidt410


Jul 29, 2012, 7:27 PM
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Re: [Jnclk] brachialis injury?-calling onceahardman [In reply to]
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I had the same happen this winter, was so bad it hurt when I put my ski boots on pressing on the buckles... I took 2 months off of climbing, but yours sounds way less mellow. Im not sure if I actually tore anything or was just overused and suffering from tendonitis.

Def stay conservative with it, mine will usually flare up after high reps on the hangboard. Breaking contact and letting the muscle stretch out (shaking out) prevents any further pain, but allows me to go past 12 reps if I want. Just have to get off the board for a couple secs. Never seems to flare up while on the rock, just maybe slight soreness and tightness a few hours after climbing.

Stretching: I stretched that area multiple times a day whenever I could. With a straight arm, flex the wrist (down) and place the back of the wrist against some form of a brace (wall, table, etc). I find that the more the arm is pointed out to the side the better the stretch. Also open the fingers and thumb while stretching. Stretch the opposing muscles by extending and placing palms against a brace.

Work opposing muscle groups, push exercises.

Add warm moist heat to your therapy. Obviously Ibuprofen will help inflammation go down. And warming up is key. A vitamin and or joint supplement may help as well.


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