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Cleaning without leaving tat on fixed gear
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Mark_Hudon


Jul 28, 2012, 9:52 PM
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Registered: Jan 6, 2010
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Cleaning without leaving tat on fixed gear
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Okay, how about some real useable big wall discussion!

Here is a real trick way to cleaning traverses and overhangs and not leave any tat on fixed gear.

Go get a 20 or 25 foot piece of 5 mil cord.

Tie a loop into one end and clip it to the belay loop on your harness. When you climb up to a cabbage patch of tat, run the 5 mil right through the eye of the piece, right through the wire, right through the bolt hanger, the rivet hanger, the pin, whatever.



Notice that before you tie the Munter but have the 5 mil clipped back to your harness, you have a 3:1 mechanical advantage! You can use that to pull yourself closer to the piece you are hanging from easily. This is great because now you can get out your belay knife and cut off all that useless and ugly tat. Stuff it in a pocket and in your wall garbage bag and take a photo of the mound of stuff you’ve cleaned off the route when you’re on top!

http://www.animatedknots.com/muntermule/index.php

Pull it all through till it’s tight to your harness and then secure it to yourself with a Munter and secure the Munter with a Munter Mule.






Anyway, once you cut off all the tat, release the Mule and lower yourself out, using the friction of the Munter, till you reach the end of the 5 mil. You should be well below the next piece and can simply let go of the free end and pull it though the now naked piece!


karcand


Jul 28, 2012, 11:46 PM
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Registered: Jun 29, 2008
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Re: [Mark_Hudon] Cleaning without leaving tat on fixed gear [In reply to]
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But as you are lowering off the wire/bolt hanger/rivet hanger/pin/whatever, your 5mm cord will shred and eventually cut. This is why instead of lowering off the bolt when they cannot finish a climb, sport climbers leave a bailer behind.
And yes I understand you are still tied into the rope and on the piece below you, so just down climb…

My 2 cents but could be wrong…


Mark_Hudon


Jul 29, 2012, 8:55 AM
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Re: [karcand] Cleaning without leaving tat on fixed gear [In reply to]
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True for lowering off a sport climb but incorrect for cleaning aid (it seems you are thinking this is a technique for retreating from a sport climb).

Typically, someone will leave tat on a fixed piece if the leader has placed his next piece very far away, the second, hanging on his jugs is too low to reach back and clean the gear. Even if the leader has used a hook or a cam hook or has back cleaned a piece, we're not talking more that ten or fifteen feet. If the climbing was straight up, you would have no problem. The problem is when the climb traverses, even as much as horizontal, or overhangs. You're climbing rope will be holding the majority of your weight and ten or fifteen feet you lower out will do barely any damage to the 5 mil.

This technique is for small moves, not for cleaning the King Swing!


(This post was edited by Mark_Hudon on Jul 29, 2012, 8:57 AM)


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