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NikNak


Jul 29, 2012, 6:55 AM
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Noob Delurking
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Howdy.

I've been lurking these boards for a few weeks now, picking up some really good advice along the way, so thank you for all the great posts and advice available here.

I'm Nik, 30 years old from Liverpool in England. I'm a complete noob at rock climbing, or specifically bouldering, only been doing it 10 weeks! I would like some advice if any of you don't mind, basically i find my strength depletes very quickly, but most noteably in my grip, my fingers are so weak :( I've read that fingerboards/campus are not for noobs but how would a noob go about increasing his or her grip / finger strength? I definetly have started to feel some conditioning, my fingers are stronger now than they were 10 weeks ago just from my visits to the bouldering gym, but nowhere near strong enough to be of much use!

I am 5 foot 11" and weight 15 stone (95 kilo) but aim to get down to my fighting weight of 12 stone (76 kilos) to aid in my progression, I've done some research and drawn up a meal plan of sorts:-

Breakfast - cereal (shredded wheat or cornflakes) with skimmed milk
Lunch - Sandwich (White meat) or salad and two pieces of fruit
Tea - salad and rice with a variant of white meat or fish
Drinks - water / non carbonated fruit drinks and protein shakes each day

Is there anything glaringly obviously wrong with that? My aim is to lose that weight without losing muscle mass (I am overweight but bizarrely have pretty big shoulders/biceps/triceps) and I figure if my arms are being conditioned to carry 15 stone on overhangs then when i go down to 12 stone if i can keep my muscle mass high then I will be very strong when rock climbing.

Also, being 30 and just getting into this, is there anything i should be concerned about injury wise. I'm pretty sure ny body isn't as bullet proof as it was when i was a wee nipper!

Thanks you in advance. o and hi :D


climbingtrash


Jul 29, 2012, 12:55 PM
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NikNak wrote:
Howdy.

I've been lurking these boards for a few weeks now, picking up some really good advice along the way, so thank you for all the great posts and advice available here.

I'm Nik, 30 years old from Liverpool in England. I'm a complete noob at rock climbing, or specifically bouldering, only been doing it 10 weeks! I would like some advice if any of you don't mind, basically i find my strength depletes very quickly, but most noteably in my grip, my fingers are so weak :( I've read that fingerboards/campus are not for noobs but how would a noob go about increasing his or her grip / finger strength? I definetly have started to feel some conditioning, my fingers are stronger now than they were 10 weeks ago just from my visits to the bouldering gym, but nowhere near strong enough to be of much use!

I am 5 foot 11" and weight 15 stone (95 kilo) but aim to get down to my fighting weight of 12 stone (76 kilos) to aid in my progression, I've done some research and drawn up a meal plan of sorts:-

Breakfast - cereal (shredded wheat or cornflakes) with skimmed milk
Lunch - Sandwich (White meat) or salad and two pieces of fruit
Tea - salad and rice with a variant of white meat or fish
Drinks - water / non carbonated fruit drinks and protein shakes each day

Is there anything glaringly obviously wrong with that? My aim is to lose that weight without losing muscle mass (I am overweight but bizarrely have pretty big shoulders/biceps/triceps) and I figure if my arms are being conditioned to carry 15 stone on overhangs then when i go down to 12 stone if i can keep my muscle mass high then I will be very strong when rock climbing.

Also, being 30 and just getting into this, is there anything i should be concerned about injury wise. I'm pretty sure ny body isn't as bullet proof as it was when i was a wee nipper!

Thanks you in advance. o and hi :D

I smoke cigarettes, eat bacon, and drink Dr. Pepper. Keeps me slim and trim. Oh and YGD!!! (Yore going to Die)


NikNak


Jul 29, 2012, 1:25 PM
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Re: [climbingtrash] Noob Delurking [In reply to]
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i actually feel young since i thought YGD was an abbreviation for 'you go dawg!'

Wink

Tbh my main concern... or main wish is devloping finger / grip strength, I feel i have to overcompensate on some problems due to the lack of strength, any pointers on devloping fingers for a noob would be awesome (i can honestly say that as a noob entering this sport there is such a plethora of vids/advice its hard to tell which is good and which is bad...moreover which i should be following!)


jamesnater


Jul 30, 2012, 10:39 AM
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Re: [NikNak] Noob Delurking [In reply to]
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This is completely my opinion and I don't have any science to back up this claim... but I think if you just keep climbing, keep doing what you've been doing for the first 10 weeks, then you'll be fine. Your fingers will just get stronger over time.

I'd concentrate more on technique than strength, as technique will get you further along than strength will. Strength will grow over time with good practice of technique.

Sounds to me like you've climbed all the lower graded problems at your gym and are getting shut down at the next grade up, but that's all that's left that you haven't climbed yet. Just have fun on the old ones, and work the harder ones like projects and keep at it. You'll "level up" before you know it!

And just wait till you get outside... best thing that ever happened to me.Smile


(This post was edited by jamesnater on Jul 30, 2012, 10:42 AM)


Kartessa


Jul 30, 2012, 11:21 AM
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climbingtrash wrote:
NikNak wrote:
Howdy.

I've been lurking these boards for a few weeks now, picking up some really good advice along the way, so thank you for all the great posts and advice available here.

I'm Nik, 30 years old from Liverpool in England. I'm a complete noob at rock climbing, or specifically bouldering, only been doing it 10 weeks! I would like some advice if any of you don't mind, basically i find my strength depletes very quickly, but most noteably in my grip, my fingers are so weak :( I've read that fingerboards/campus are not for noobs but how would a noob go about increasing his or her grip / finger strength? I definetly have started to feel some conditioning, my fingers are stronger now than they were 10 weeks ago just from my visits to the bouldering gym, but nowhere near strong enough to be of much use!

I am 5 foot 11" and weight 15 stone (95 kilo) but aim to get down to my fighting weight of 12 stone (76 kilos) to aid in my progression, I've done some research and drawn up a meal plan of sorts:-

Breakfast - cereal (shredded wheat or cornflakes) with skimmed milk
Lunch - Sandwich (White meat) or salad and two pieces of fruit
Tea - salad and rice with a variant of white meat or fish
Drinks - water / non carbonated fruit drinks and protein shakes each day

Is there anything glaringly obviously wrong with that? My aim is to lose that weight without losing muscle mass (I am overweight but bizarrely have pretty big shoulders/biceps/triceps) and I figure if my arms are being conditioned to carry 15 stone on overhangs then when i go down to 12 stone if i can keep my muscle mass high then I will be very strong when rock climbing.

Also, being 30 and just getting into this, is there anything i should be concerned about injury wise. I'm pretty sure ny body isn't as bullet proof as it was when i was a wee nipper!

Thanks you in advance. o and hi :D

I smoke cigarettes, eat bacon, and drink Dr. Pepper. Keeps me slim and trim. Oh and YGD!!! (Yore going to Die)

Ditto, tho less slim and trim... I call it "bacon booty"


chadnsc


Jul 30, 2012, 1:06 PM
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Kartessa wrote:

Ditto, tho less slim and trim... I call it "bacon booty"

Listen to Kartessa, her BB is strong and helps her crush those high grades!

I'm being serious.


NikNak


Jul 30, 2012, 4:26 PM
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Re: [jamesnater] Noob Delurking [In reply to]
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thanks James, you pretty much nailed it on the head... slopers/crimps/pinches destroy me :o



i was thinking of buying one of these to try to speed up progrssion. Not sure though, I don't see that product mentioned in any training vids?

Got my first pair of shoes though so hopefully can focus on footwork whilst I wait for finger strength to develop i guess :o

chadnsc - I have a bacon booty also. But that damn beer belly weighs me down Wink


(This post was edited by NikNak on Jul 30, 2012, 4:39 PM)


redonkulus


Jul 30, 2012, 8:34 PM
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NikNak wrote:
thanks James, you pretty much nailed it on the head... slopers/crimps/pinches destroy me :o

[image]http://fiblecumewor.tk/image/2012/sammonsprestonhandandfingerexerciseyellowresistance15lbs.jpg[/image]

i was thinking of buying one of these to try to speed up progrssion. Not sure though, I don't see that product mentioned in any training vids?

Got my first pair of shoes though so hopefully can focus on footwork whilst I wait for finger strength to develop i guess :o

chadnsc - I have a bacon booty also. But that damn beer belly weighs me down Wink

I've only found those to be useful if you won't be able to actually climb for a good deal of time. Otherwise, you're making yourself tired before you get to the gym, so you can't go as long or as hard. Really, your best bet is just to climb as much as you can (within reason, and without overtraining). Work on the types of holds you struggle the most with, and just keep plugging away. It'll come.


climbingtrash


Jul 31, 2012, 4:12 PM
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NikNak wrote:
i actually feel young since i thought YGD was an abbreviation for 'you go dawg!'

Wink

Tbh my main concern... or main wish is devloping finger / grip strength, I feel i have to overcompensate on some problems due to the lack of strength, any pointers on devloping fingers for a noob would be awesome (i can honestly say that as a noob entering this sport there is such a plethora of vids/advice its hard to tell which is good and which is bad...moreover which i should be following!)

Climbing is the best way to develop finger strength. But you aren't overcompensating because of a lack of strength, but because of a lack of technique and core strength. Upper body and finger strength will only get you so far.


Kartessa


Aug 1, 2012, 6:00 AM
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NikNak wrote:

chadnsc - I have a bacon booty also. But that damn beer belly weighs me down Wink

Best way to climb better is to lose weight... when I eat too much bacon, grades go down... when I eat my veggies, grades go up.

Science is crazy!


NikNak


Aug 1, 2012, 7:48 AM
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haha Kartessa who woulda thunk it!

Alas bacon is off the menu, lots of white meat, fish and veggies for the forseeable.

But the alcamahol? The alcahol sings to me...


Kartessa


Aug 1, 2012, 7:59 AM
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NikNak wrote:
haha Kartessa who woulda thunk it!

Alas bacon is off the menu, lots of white meat, fish and veggies for the forseeable.

But the alcamahol? The alcahol sings to me...

Boo hiss booze...

Personally, I prefer the herb


Geekstar


Aug 1, 2012, 1:31 PM
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NikNak wrote:

But the alcamahol? The alcahol sings to me...

I was calculating my drinking calories the other day and...well..wow...it's summer time and I'm a teacher, so I've just been climbing, running, and drinking all the time. I thought to myself, imagine if I just did climbing and running all the time...

I am *thinking* about trying this. Maybe.


NikNak


Aug 1, 2012, 2:02 PM
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lol Geekster I just got home from the bouldering gym and apparently this post session tin of strongbow has 290 calories :o But i do measure my finger strength progression on whether or not I'm able to actually open a can when I get home. 5 weeks ago I couldn't. now i can.

As kartessa eluded to, its all about the science

Sly


NikNak


Aug 1, 2012, 3:33 PM
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This is the core training advice at my bouldering gym, any thoughts / opinions / advice?



all input appreciated thanks :D


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