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Rappelling Epidemic
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majid_sabet


Jul 30, 2012, 4:30 PM
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Rappelling Epidemic
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Two Canadians climbers were killed yesterday while rappelling while another Californian climber was killed in southern CA a week ago. Few months ago, a female climber lost both of her feet ( amputated) after 90 feet fall while rappelling and To best of my record keeping, Every year, more climbers (both n00bs and pros) get hurt or die from rappelling than any other climbing related activities and I just do not get it .why such a simple activity is so deadly ? .

Here are some of the reasons

Anchor failures

Dropping from end of the line

Rappelling too fast or out of control

Using wrong rappelling device

Using wrong size rope

Unprotected rope over sharp objects

Weekend Commando Aussi style rappelling

Rappelling with heavy load (backpack,haul bag etc)

Rockfall and rappelling without helmet

Rappelling on Frozen rope (not knowing what to do)

Rappelling on old rope ( rope failures)

Uneven length of rope on double rope or using wrong mid-section marking while rappelling


Simul-rappelling issues

Jammed knot

Objects and body part jamming in to Rap device

Miss-calculation of rapping distance on multi-pitch wall (no rap bolts or anchors)

Unplanned overnight stay on the wall due to sudden rappelling surprise or plan "B" (missing rap anchor, no headlamp, protective clothing )

Lack of experience while lowering or rappelling with injured partner

Dealing with partners with low experience during rappelling (babysitting or given remote rapping instructions to others without supervision)

what else ?


(This post was edited by majid_sabet on Jul 30, 2012, 4:32 PM)


swaghole


Jul 30, 2012, 6:45 PM
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Re: [majid_sabet] Rappelling Epidemic [In reply to]
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You can add rappelling without a backup (prussik or other)


potreroed


Jul 30, 2012, 7:57 PM
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Re: [majid_sabet] Rappelling Epidemic [In reply to]
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I believe most rappelling accidents happen because usually you're rapping at the end of the day when you are tired and hungry and dehydrated and it's getting dark and it's getting cold and you are more prone to making small deadly mistakes.


bearbreeder


Jul 30, 2012, 8:17 PM
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Re: [potreroed] Rappelling Epidemic [In reply to]
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simul rapping caused the last one

Using a technique that climbers call “simul-rappelling,” the pair were descending using a rope threaded through a single anchor, each climber acting as a counterweight to the other.

“One person managed to come off the rope during the rappel,” said Kananaskis public safety specialist Mike Koppang.

With no counterweight on the line, there was nothing to keep the rope anchored.

“The rope ran through the anchor and the second person fell.”


http://www.calgaryherald.com/...t/7014040/story.html


moose_droppings


Jul 30, 2012, 8:25 PM
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Re: [potreroed] Rappelling Epidemic [In reply to]
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potreroed wrote:
I believe most rappelling accidents happen because usually you're rapping at the end of the day when you are tired and hungry and dehydrated and it's getting dark and it's getting cold and you are more prone to making small deadly mistakes.

+1

Be vigilant during your raps or you get the big chop.
Not much room for errors.


notapplicable


Jul 30, 2012, 8:47 PM
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Re: [swaghole] Rappelling Epidemic [In reply to]
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swaghole wrote:
You can add rappelling without a backup (prussik or other)

That neither constitutes a rappelling accident nor can it cause one.


RickMix


Jul 31, 2012, 6:32 AM
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Re: [majid_sabet] Rappelling Epidemic [In reply to]
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I too have noticed what seems to be an increase in rappelling accidents. For my part I think it's a lack of diligence. Got to stay aware! Of course there's noobs that just don't know what's going on, but I see a lot of events that involve more experienced climbers. Makes no sense.

What's that thing they put on all the gear? Oh yeah, CLIMBING IS DANGEROUS!


donald949


Jul 31, 2012, 9:40 AM
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Re: [notapplicable] Rappelling Epidemic [In reply to]
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notapplicable wrote:
swaghole wrote:
You can add rappelling without a backup (prussik or other)

That neither constitutes a rappelling accident nor can it cause one.
You are correct, but the back up might have mitigated the consequences of the accident. Dropped rope, burnt hand, etc.
Not saying I always have a backup, but when asked I recommend one.


majid_sabet


Jul 31, 2012, 10:32 AM
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Re: [potreroed] Rappelling Epidemic [In reply to]
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potreroed wrote:
I believe most rappelling accidents happen because usually you're rapping at the end of the day when you are tired and hungry and dehydrated and it's getting dark and it's getting cold and you are more prone to making small deadly mistakes.


I investigated one fatality accident and everything pointed to exactly what you said.


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