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JohnCook
Jul 31, 2012, 12:17 PM
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An amazing trip report. A must for all who aspire to big walls!
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Gmburns2000
Jul 31, 2012, 6:52 PM
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A bit long, but hey, so was the experience, so it fits: an excellent TR! Thanks for sharing. The ending was a bit gut-wrenching. I hope, if you want, to get another chance at redemption some day. Best of luck!
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potreroed
Jul 31, 2012, 8:29 PM
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Registered: Sep 30, 2001
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Mark, maybe it's time to come clips bolts in the Potrero Chico with the rest of us old-timers. Imagine climbing big walls (not quite El Cap big, but still big) with a single rope and a dozen draws.
(This post was edited by potreroed on Jul 31, 2012, 8:30 PM)
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ninepointeight
Jul 31, 2012, 8:31 PM
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What the fuck happened to your finger!?
(This post was edited by ninepointeight on Jul 31, 2012, 8:31 PM)
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marc801
Jul 31, 2012, 9:33 PM
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ninepointeight wrote: What the fuck happened to your finger!? That's what hands and fingers look like after a few days on a wall. You're also looking at the side view of his fingertip.
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Mark_Hudon
Jul 31, 2012, 10:58 PM
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Ha! It doesn't look too good does it? I think I was pretty dehydrated right then, I probably had to drink some water.
(This post was edited by Mark_Hudon on Jul 31, 2012, 10:59 PM)
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ninepointeight
Aug 1, 2012, 1:24 AM
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Looks like an Orc digit!
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ccspikes
Aug 1, 2012, 6:28 PM
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Registered: Aug 15, 2006
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Good job, Mark. A real man knows when to say when. Reminds me a bit of Jim Erickson's grand "failure" on Half Dome.
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marc801
Aug 1, 2012, 6:32 PM
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Another way to look at it: in 20 years, which will be the more vivid memory - Iron Hawk or one of the walls that was easy smooth sailing?
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Mark_Hudon
Aug 1, 2012, 6:54 PM
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Believe me, I would probably have given my left nut to have been able to climb that pitch, but dang, I was really hammered, it was quite amazing and scary, actually.
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marc801
Aug 1, 2012, 8:20 PM
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Mark_Hudon wrote: Believe me, I would probably have given my left nut to have been able to climb that pitch, but dang, I was really hammered, it was quite amazing and scary, actually. I think at one time or another we've all been there. I definitely recall handing the rack to my partner 3 pitches from the top and saying "Get us out of here!"
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moose_droppings
Aug 1, 2012, 8:58 PM
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Thanks Mark. I've always enjoyed reading your adventures . I don't suppose you could make up Black Hills blend for my roped solo outings? It would have to be weaker for sure.
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TarHeelEMT
Aug 14, 2012, 12:28 AM
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Love your trip reports. Keep the wall tips coming.
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Mark_Hudon
Aug 14, 2012, 3:29 AM
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Many thanks.
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TarHeelEMT
Aug 15, 2012, 2:32 AM
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Mark, would you mind giving a brief explanation of why you rigged the pecker this way? Do you always have a sling through the top hole?
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Mark_Hudon
Aug 15, 2012, 2:54 AM
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I clipped into the top sling here because I though clipping into the wire would rotate it out. I thought that clipping both might pull more straight down on the blade. The sling through the top hole makes these things easy and convenient to rack, they'll hang nice and neat that way and not get all tangled up in everything else. I have the three different sizes on different colored webbing. The sling on top also makes it easy to "funk" them out of a placement. Clip a longer sling to that, girth hitch it around your hammer handle and jerk it out. People tend to over drive their beaks and they don't wedge themselves out like regular pitons do. The sling really helps getting them out.
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TarHeelEMT
Aug 15, 2012, 3:00 AM
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Thanks Mark. "Finer points of pin placement" might make for a great wall tips segment if you get around to it. I'd certainly be eager to read it.
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Mark_Hudon
Aug 15, 2012, 3:03 AM
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Registered: Jan 6, 2010
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Thanks, I'm working on a Wall Soloing tip right now. I have so many people asking me about it I might as well write it up and post it. Thanks again.
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cpowers15
Sep 3, 2012, 3:05 PM
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Registered: Aug 11, 2012
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awesome read! thanks for posting
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