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onrockandice


Aug 3, 2012, 9:45 AM
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Rope Solo Climbing Link
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Ran across this on Petzl's site. I'm shocked it's even there.

http://www.petzl.com/...limbing/introduction

I've used the Silent Partner, Shunts, Mini-Traxions.

What do the established RS experts think of the "Introduction"? What advice would you make to change it. It used to be that two mini-trax's and a chest harness was the way to go. I had to head that direction because the silent partner was silent but bulky and irritating.

What's the latest trend? I haven't rope solo'd in a while and was curious how many ways there were to die now on the interweb.

DISCLAIMER: I'm going to die, at home or away. If I die climbing then at least I ruled out dying in my sleep which in my end would be the low-point of a life spent in fear. Climb on!

I embrace the disclaimer in earnest. However, I'd like to die in bed at the age of 99 having climbed safely my entire life. Cool


potreroed


Aug 3, 2012, 1:15 PM
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Re: [onrockandice] Rope Solo Climbing Link [In reply to]
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I want to die young at an advanced age.


snowfall


Aug 3, 2012, 1:51 PM
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Re: [onrockandice] Rope Solo Climbing Link [In reply to]
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I'm glad they put that section together on their website. Best level of information and detail on TR soloing on the web. And it's coming from Petzl, so you can trust it. I've used Petzl's recommended microtraxion/microcender setups (both single and double fixed ropes). Works great.
But ... I'm not an expert... on anything Wink


Partner devkrev


Aug 3, 2012, 2:58 PM
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Re: [onrockandice] Rope Solo Climbing Link [In reply to]
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I think Petzl has a significant history of education in using their products appropriately...this is somewhat in a new direction because I don't think any of those ascenders are advertised for use in TR-solo


wivanoff


Aug 3, 2012, 5:08 PM
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Re: [onrockandice] Rope Solo Climbing Link [In reply to]
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I think Petzl did a good job with that. It'll make a great link for all the future "how do I self belay" posts.

What they show is pretty much what I've always done - except with a spring loaded Gibbs ascender tied directly to my harness - no carabiner. I do this a LOT when partners aren't available. I've done it this way for many years and many falls. When I use this system to climb 'last pitches' at the Gunks I make sure to knot the end of the rope. ("Arrow" is cool to do this on when there's no one around)

I don't use a second rope. I sometimes tie backup knots. When I do, I'll add a 3/8" quick-link on a separate leash below my Gibbs. I always carry a couple of prusik slings and an ATC to get myself out of a jam.

Some of my friends do the same single line self-belay, but with a Petzl Ascension. Personally, I don't care for that because of the carabiner connection to the harness that the Ascension requires.... It works for them, though.

This is what *I* do. YYMV. I see nothing wrong with what Petzl shows there. By all means, if you're uncomfortable with that, add the second rope and back yourself up.


gunkiemike


Aug 3, 2012, 6:24 PM
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Re: [devkrev] Rope Solo Climbing Link [In reply to]
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devkrev wrote:
I think Petzl has a significant history of education in using their products appropriately...this is somewhat in a new direction because I don't think any of those ascenders are advertised for use in TR-solo

Maybe not "advertised" per se, but the Basic ascender has been Petzl's normal device for solo TR for as long as I can remember (I've been using it 10, maybe 15 years now).

Time to cue the uninformed "but toothed cams will shred the rope" chorus. Those of course being the ones who have never used a toothed device for solo TR.


moose_droppings


Aug 3, 2012, 7:12 PM
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Re: [onrockandice] Rope Solo Climbing Link [In reply to]
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onrockandice wrote:
Ran across this on Petzl's site. I'm shocked it's even there.

http://www.petzl.com/...limbing/introduction

I've used the Silent Partner, Shunts, Mini-Traxions.

What do the established RS experts think of the "Introduction"? What advice would you make to change it. It used to be that two mini-trax's and a chest harness was the way to go. I had to head that direction because the silent partner was silent but bulky and irritating.

What's the latest trend? I haven't rope solo'd in a while and was curious how many ways there were to die now on the interweb.

DISCLAIMER: I'm going to die, at home or away. If I die climbing then at least I ruled out dying in my sleep which in my end would be the low-point of a life spent in fear. Climb on!

I embrace the disclaimer in earnest. However, I'd like to die in bed at the age of 99 having climbed safely my entire life. Cool

You've used a Silent Partner for top rope soloing? How'd that work for you? Does it take a lot of weight at the bottom of the rope to work?

Anyway, I've used a rescucender or microcender for years, most of the time with knots as a backup. I've tried many other devices but always end up going back to those. As far as Petzl's link above, it's pretty basic info and well diagrammed with the better tried and trued systems out there for TR soloing. You could throw this warning in with any type of climbing that involves a single rope, "WARNING, repeated rubbing against the rock can quickly cut your only rope.", but they're covering their butts ever which way they can I guess.


moose_droppings


Aug 3, 2012, 7:14 PM
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Re: [gunkiemike] Rope Solo Climbing Link [In reply to]
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gunkiemike wrote:
Time to cue the uninformed "but toothed cams will shred the rope" chorus. .



Yer gonna die!!!111
Laugh


USnavy


Aug 3, 2012, 8:18 PM
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Re: [snowfall] Rope Solo Climbing Link [In reply to]
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snowfall wrote:
And it's coming from Petzl, so you can trust it.
Haha, yea, there is a lot I can say about this. I will limit to two topics though. First off, a Petzl rep gave me a set of draws after proving to him that the Dragonflys were half ropes, not twins. He swore they were twins. Second, search for a rope called the Zypher on here. But yes, most into on the Petzl site is pretty legit, it is just that some of their reps are clueless and they refuse to recall an obviously defective product.


(This post was edited by USnavy on Aug 3, 2012, 8:20 PM)


onrockandice


Aug 5, 2012, 4:07 PM
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{Edit:} Forgot to answer your question on weighting it. No it doesn't take tons of weight as long as you manage the slack loops smartly. I almost always have extra cams with me and such that adds up to enough to anchor it. Anymore though, and out of habit I just build a quick anchor with slings/runners if necessary or a nice multi in a crack or some other constriction. It's rare that I cannot find a place to slot a tricam where I climb and then I just don't have to futz with it. I've got tricams from thin seam up to cowbell (I know, newbie right?) and use them like a slut to build multi anchors.{/Edit}

Yeah, I've done a ton of TR-Solo with the SP and honestly it bugs the crap out of me. It's rigged to run a clove hitch so that it will catch you upside down or not. That's great but you really have to manage loops of slack feeding into the device to keep it from jamming.

Now saying this, I've lead lot's of pitches with the SP too in ground up style. This is where you better have self-discipline in spades and you for sure better understand your anchor at the bottom (because it's what will catch you and save your life so it better be a a multi-directional masterpoint that is backed up at least once.) I have had my heart catch in my throat at times when I caught myself feeding my belay side in as slack and caught myself basically soloing. Now I'm more practiced (how I didn't die I'll never know) and I take some steps to prevent accidents.

1. Belay side is always oriented on the same side of the device.

2. Slack side is always marked with a piece of yellow tape.

3. Leading on new terrain. Stop and either cowtail in or whatever and just check your setup. If you want to maintain a free ascent this is easy to do safely. Get connected and then get into a stance that you are not loading your cowtail and double-check your stuff.

I've gotten over the "I'm gonna die." phase of TR and lead soloing with the SP. I refuse to loan it to anyone though because it's just too easy to be stupid and not know it.

DISCLAIMER: My near misses came while learning to rope solo and learning the silent partner. I read the manual several times but complacency nearly ended me.

Honestly now I prefer the mini-traxion setup running two of them on a single rope. It's simple and clean as well as redundant (excepting the single rope) and it's just a set it and forget it (sort of) setup.

The Silent Partner has always been very highly rated and I think if you were smart enough to know that every single mistake might kill you then it's a good way too go. On most days, I stash it and go trax to me it's just easier.

Anyway, you wanna try it? PM me and I'll ship it to you to play with. You been here *FOREVER* and frankly I'd love to hear your comments on it.

Of course out and back shipping is on you. Tongue


(This post was edited by onrockandice on Aug 5, 2012, 4:15 PM)


moose_droppings


Aug 5, 2012, 7:54 PM
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Re: [onrockandice] Rope Solo Climbing Link [In reply to]
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Your not the first I've heard that has used the SP for TR soloing so I thought I'd ask about it. Thanks. Always seemed like there are simpler devices and wondered why some have chosen to use them for TR soloing.

I've done 100's of pitches lead roped soloing single and multi-pitch with a Soloist and have become comfortable enough with it to pass on the offer to try the SP. Seems like to much of a hassle to give it a go. It would be the old dog, new trick type of scenario. But thanks just the same. Besides, doc's still giving me the red light for climbing, so if anyone says they saw me out aiding two pitches with my Soloist the other day, I'll have to say it wasn't me.
Angelic

Nothing wrong with cowbells. I carry some for my backcountry hike and climb escapades and of course the smaller ones all the time.


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