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James066


Aug 5, 2012, 11:14 PM
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Looking for a good Edge Protector
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Just wondering what good edge protectors are out there these days. Anyone have a particular one in mind that works well?


vinnie83


Aug 6, 2012, 12:48 AM
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Do you mind sharing a little more info about what type of application it is for? For example a top rope in which climbers could be wandering from side to side, rappelling or ascending a fixed rope, hauling, a rescue scenario. Knowing what you intend to do may allow more specific recommendations. That being said, in recreational climbing edge protectors are usually not needed if the anchor is set up properly.


James066


Aug 6, 2012, 1:44 AM
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Alright good point. Well I'm getting a friend of mine into climbing so naturally we're doing a lot of top roping. The main spot I go to has a couple of fairly nasty edges to deal with on a few of the routes. Even if I extend the anchor there are still spots that give quite a bit of friction. I mainly do a lot of lead my self so I haven't really had a need for an edge protector.


socalclimber


Aug 6, 2012, 5:52 AM
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Well an easy cheap solution is old fire hose. For something a little less ghetto, try checking out the companies that sell rescue/SAR gear.

Try:

http://www.rescuedirect.com

or just google the following search term:

technical sar gear

Best of luck!


chadnsc


Aug 6, 2012, 7:31 AM
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I use an old rug or edged carpet remnant sample from a home improvement store (20"x30" or so)

I'll then use my grommet tool to add grommets to each corner of the rug. Tie some accessory cord to the grommets as needed.

The carpet costs around $3 and a grommet kit with 50 grommets runs about $5.


DougMartin


Aug 6, 2012, 7:54 AM
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Just use your cars floor mats! That is if they are carpet.


Partner cracklover


Aug 6, 2012, 8:58 AM
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Carpet remnant or an old T-shirt or two.

GO


marc801


Aug 6, 2012, 11:58 AM
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James066 wrote:
Just wondering what good edge protectors are out there these days. Anyone have a particular one in mind that works well?

CMI Edge Roller:


$215 USD


Partner cracklover


Aug 6, 2012, 12:29 PM
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marc801 wrote:
James066 wrote:
Just wondering what good edge protectors are out there these days. Anyone have a particular one in mind that works well?

CMI Edge Roller:
[image]http://www.nwbackpack.com/images/catalog/regular/_lm101114-cmi-high-roller-edge-protector-cmi-high-roller-edge-protector-1.jpg[/image]

$215 USD

LOL, awesome! I can just see it. The toproping climber traverses, the rope pops off, flinging the giant metal bike chain down to where it brains the poor belayer.

Too funny!

GO


marc801


Aug 6, 2012, 1:38 PM
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cracklover wrote:
marc801 wrote:
James066 wrote:
Just wondering what good edge protectors are out there these days. Anyone have a particular one in mind that works well?

CMI Edge Roller:
[image]http://www.nwbackpack.com/images/catalog/regular/_lm101114-cmi-high-roller-edge-protector-cmi-high-roller-edge-protector-1.jpg[/image]

$215 USD

LOL, awesome! I can just see it. The toproping climber traverses, the rope pops off, flinging the giant metal bike chain down to where it brains the poor belayer.

Too funny!
HA!
But in actual use, they're supposed to have their own anchor. There are (or were) some edge rollers bolted to the top of El Cap as the result of some rescues. Don't know if they've been removed by YOSAR.

There was one of these somewhere in the vicinity of the top of The Zodiac at one time:



Here's one in use above the Wall of Early Morning Light:


[Image from http://www.friendsofyosar.org/ ]


(This post was edited by marc801 on Aug 6, 2012, 1:42 PM)


Partner cracklover


Aug 6, 2012, 2:16 PM
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Oh sure, I can see them being useful (although potentially a big PITA) in rescue situations.

I was just thinking of the recreational toproper with more dollars than sense.

GO


James066


Aug 6, 2012, 2:29 PM
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I wonder how ones such as these would fair out:

http://www.rescuedirect.com/Merchant2/graphics/00000001/tracker1.jpg

http://www.ferno.com.au/Portals/0/images/Rock%20Climbing/Rope%20&%20Rope%20Accessories/Ultra-Pro-Edge-Protector-CMC294042.jpg


snoboy


Aug 6, 2012, 4:04 PM
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In my experience, those ones ^^ are the best out there for SAR type rope work. That is fixed lines and hauling/lowering from one spot.

I would look at something like the wrap-around-canvas-tube-with-velcro style, one on each strand, for TR. More likely I would make a better anchor or go somewhere else though.


James066


Aug 6, 2012, 4:46 PM
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Well if I'm lowering my partner on a top rope and one section has the rope running along an edge I don't think those wrap around styles would work. Now I'm sure I can guess what you're gonna say...."well your top rope anchor should be long enough so that your top rope is over the edge". True however the crag I go to has a couple routes where their are one or two more edges after the edge at the top near the anchor. So that's really the only time I need the protection is when lowering the climber after he reaches the top.


bearbreeder


Aug 6, 2012, 8:32 PM
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whuddah crag?

thats why i prefer el cheapo ropes for cragging ...


madrasrock


Aug 6, 2012, 9:09 PM
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the Spirol from REI or buy denum from wall mart cut is 24" squares us it flat on the rock of stuff in a crack


majid_sabet


Aug 6, 2012, 10:15 PM
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go to any fire dept in your local town and ask them to give you few feet of old fire hose, 2 to 4" wide then cut in half and put a hole on top and you got a solid Edge pro.

you can also use wide tubular webbing, carpet, any Kevlar sheet or thick canvas material as edge pro. do not buy those silly small roller edge pros. They do not work under heavy load. The big red CMC rollers are good but very heavy and cost $130 each.


majid_sabet


Aug 6, 2012, 10:18 PM
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marc801 wrote:
cracklover wrote:
marc801 wrote:
James066 wrote:
Just wondering what good edge protectors are out there these days. Anyone have a particular one in mind that works well?

CMI Edge Roller:
[image]http://www.nwbackpack.com/images/catalog/regular/_lm101114-cmi-high-roller-edge-protector-cmi-high-roller-edge-protector-1.jpg[/image]

$215 USD

LOL, awesome! I can just see it. The toproping climber traverses, the rope pops off, flinging the giant metal bike chain down to where it brains the poor belayer.

Too funny!
HA!
But in actual use, they're supposed to have their own anchor. There are (or were) some edge rollers bolted to the top of El Cap as the result of some rescues. Don't know if they've been removed by YOSAR.

There was one of these somewhere in the vicinity of the top of The Zodiac at one time:

[image]http://www.bradleyalpinist.com/cart/images/Edge%20Roller.jpg[/image]

Here's one in use above the Wall of Early Morning Light:

[image]http://www.friendsofyosar.org/rescues/missions/pictures/pic7elcap3.jpg[/image]
[Image from http://www.friendsofyosar.org/ ]

No edge pros is bolted on any wall in any national park. SAR removes them after every operation and they are tied with cords and prusiks.


James066


Aug 6, 2012, 10:39 PM
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Alright I think I'm getting a pretty good idea here. I like that fire hose idea. Thanks!


majid_sabet


Aug 6, 2012, 10:46 PM
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James066 wrote:
Alright I think I'm getting a pretty good idea here. I like that fire hose idea. Thanks!


you owe me $20









(This post was edited by majid_sabet on Aug 6, 2012, 10:55 PM)


billcoe_


Sep 25, 2012, 3:36 PM
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James066 wrote:
Just wondering what good edge protectors are out there these days. Anyone have a particular one in mind that works well?



REI spirols will do the job, is light and easy to haul around (make a knot with it on your gear loop as you approach an edge) but can slip on a rope, despite what they say. If you are going to be hanging on a rope all day that is dynamic while cleaning a new route, plan on checking it frequently. I trashed a rope one day learning that the hard way:-(

Fish Products makes a version I haven't tried, but he generally makes real good shit. His looks like you can connect it to the rope so it stays stable. Anyone try it and can give us the beta? Lists it in the catalog under runners section, called a "Grain Tamer".

http://www.fishproducts.com/...g/productlinefs.html



In reply to:
The Grain Tamer is an edge protector that secures itself around the rope used in a toprope anchor. This little device reduces the chance of not only rope wear, but heads popping off due to rope failure. The business section of the Grain Tamer is the same White Vinyl we use on our haul bags, but double thickness. Each edge has a Velcro strip to secure the guard around your rope as if it was the filling in a Taquito. To keep the Tamer in place, each end has a Fastex clip attached to a prussik. Simply loop the prussik around your cord and clip it to the Tamer, no slips, no mistakes, and more importantly, no escaped heads. The Grain Tamer is big enough to use around 11mm ropes, including the knot. Overall length runs about 24". This is a must have item in every topropers arsenal. $29.00 ea.


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