Forums: Climbing Information: General:
How to scare people away from climbing (with you) and look like a clueless idiot
RSS FeedRSS Feeds for General

Premier Sponsor:

 


herites


Aug 6, 2012, 8:56 AM
Post #1 of 15 (1677 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 10, 2011
Posts: 210

How to scare people away from climbing (with you) and look like a clueless idiot
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (1 rating)  
Can't Post

A few days ago I went to the gym to ease my climbing addiction (no chance to climb outside, weather unbearable) and one dude approached me, that if I could take him outside. Said why not, I could use a new belay slave, especially now, when my gf works in an afternoon shift. I invited the guy over to my place on the next day, to practice a few things, mainly jugging, if he gets stuck during a harder pitch.

Grabbed my harness and some random length of static rope (I'm really good at having random length of unused cords lying around for no reason) and started to look for my ascenders. I've soon realized that the little monsters, who knot your perfectly coiled rope, mess up your gear, etc, must have hid my ascenders somewhere in the bottom of the Pile o' Gearô I have. Luckily there are some items that I never remove from my harness, among them is my grigri, a prusik and my anchor/rappel extender system (sling girth hitched to harness, knot about 2/3 length and a biner at the end)

Fixed the static rope to a tree in my garden, it was a bit short and the end was hanging about a meter above the ground. Attached the grigri and the prusik to the rope, made a foot loop from my anchor sling, and ta-da you have a ghetto ascender system. Explained the guy how the system works, sit back on the grigri, push up with your leg, etc. Started to demo it, and by default I reached up to pull on my foot "ascender" The prusik obviously slid down, along with my hand and pushed the cam of grigri down. Bam, sitting on my ass, in the grass, wondering wtf happened. Don't grab the fucking prusik happened.

The guy was giving me weird looks, basically asking with his eyes "dude, do you even know what are you doing?" but didn't say a word. Rigged the whole system again, and succesfully ascended that measly 5 meters to the anchor branch. The ascent reminded me when I was forced to jug a 60m fixed dynamic line with a reverso and prusik. Fun times. 3 pitch route, decided to work the second p on solo TR. Fixed the rope at the top, rapped, and just when I reached the anchor of the first pitch and anchored in, the rigid plasticky loop on my BD harness decided that it's time to pop. Of course my trax and ascender was on that loop... To add insult to injury the route was overhanging above.

Back to the present, removed the prusik, started to rap on grigri... and I was on the ground again. Remember, at the beginning I said the rope didn't reach the ground? Well, my ass did. My apprentice only said that his time is up, and he must go to pick up his girlfriend. When I asked him if he wants to climb this weekend, because the weather forecast shows a cold front coming, he said the he already has a program :)

Edited the title at herites' request. :)


(This post was edited by lena_chita on Aug 6, 2012, 7:31 PM)


herites


Aug 6, 2012, 8:57 AM
Post #2 of 15 (1676 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 10, 2011
Posts: 210

Re: [herites] How to scare away from climbing (with you) and look like a clueless idiot [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

and of course i messed up the title too.

edit: if any mod comes by, please change the title to "How to scare away people from climbing (with you) and look like a clueless idiot


(This post was edited by herites on Aug 6, 2012, 9:23 AM)


Partner cracklover


Aug 6, 2012, 9:09 AM
Post #3 of 15 (1662 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 14, 2002
Posts: 9935

Re: [herites] How to scare away from climbing (with you) and look like a clueless idiot [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Ha! Excellent! I'll have to remember that one.

Better than half the trip reports posted here!

Good luck finding a partner, and may your ass and your ego soon recover.

GO


bearbreeder


Aug 6, 2012, 9:36 AM
Post #4 of 15 (1628 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Feb 1, 2009
Posts: 1960

Re: [herites] How to scare away from climbing (with you) and look like a clueless idiot [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

what grade were you planning to climb where the second needs to jug up on a gri gri?


herites


Aug 6, 2012, 9:43 AM
Post #5 of 15 (1618 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 10, 2011
Posts: 210

Re: [bearbreeder] How to scare away from climbing (with you) and look like a clueless idiot [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (2 ratings)  
Can't Post

It doesn't matter what grade. I just wanted to make sure that if he can't or doesn't want to do a part of a multipitch climb we can continue. When I climb with my gf we often go on routes which are at her limit (she insists on that) and there are times when she gives up and jugs. Also, when I want to push myself she has to jug, because I climb a bit harder.

About the grigri, whats wrong with it? You only need one ascender, can rap and belay. I don't say it's good when you know you'll jug, but when you may jug short sections, then there's no point in bringing two ascenders. And no, despite it's made for just this (replacing an ascender in a cinch) I refuse to use a tibloc.


(This post was edited by herites on Aug 6, 2012, 9:45 AM)


bearbreeder


Aug 6, 2012, 9:55 AM
Post #6 of 15 (1603 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Feb 1, 2009
Posts: 1960

Re: [herites] How to scare away from climbing (with you) and look like a clueless idiot [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (2 ratings)  
Can't Post

If yr taking a newish gym climber to follow you on multi you probably dont want to overload their brains with jugging ... Youll likely want to start on easier routes which are less than vertical where it aint needed

A good partner will judge what a new person is capable of and not put em on sonething theyll need to jug for the first time ....

Its much more important to go over the needed basics like belay transitions, knots, tie off the climber, Etc ...

I see fairly new leaders try to overload their new followers with excess information all the time

Wink


jt512


Aug 6, 2012, 10:08 AM
Post #7 of 15 (1580 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 11, 2001
Posts: 21887

Re: [herites] How to scare away from climbing (with you) and look like a clueless idiot [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (5 ratings)  
Can't Post

herites wrote:
A few days ago I went to the gym to ease my climbing addiction (no chance to climb outside, weather unbearable) and one dude approached me, that if I could take him outside. Said why not, I could use a new belay slave, especially now, when my gf works in an afternoon shift. I invited the guy over to my place on the next day, to practice a few things, mainly jugging, if he gets stuck during a harder pitch.

Grabbed my harness and some random length of static rope (I'm really good at having random length of unused cords lying around for no reason) and started to look for my ascenders. I've soon realized that the little monsters, who knot your perfectly coiled rope, mess up your gear, etc, must have hid my ascenders somewhere in the bottom of the Pile o' Gearô I have. Luckily there are some items that I never remove from my harness, among them is my grigri, a prusik and my anchor/rappel extender system (sling girth hitched to harness, knot about 2/3 length and a biner at the end)

Fixed the static rope to a tree in my garden, it was a bit short and the end was hanging about a meter above the ground. Attached the grigri and the prusik to the rope, made a foot loop from my anchor sling, and ta-da you have a ghetto ascender system. Explained the guy how the system works, sit back on the grigri, push up with your leg, etc. Started to demo it, and by default I reached up to pull on my foot "ascender" The prusik obviously slid down, along with my hand and pushed the cam of grigri down. Bam, sitting on my ass, in the grass, wondering wtf happened. Don't grab the fucking prusik happened.

The guy was giving me weird looks, basically asking with his eyes "dude, do you even know what are you doing?" but didn't say a word. Rigged the whole system again, and succesfully ascended that measly 5 meters to the anchor branch. The ascent reminded me when I was forced to jug a 60m fixed dynamic line with a reverso and prusik. Fun times. 3 pitch route, decided to work the second p on solo TR. Fixed the rope at the top, rapped, and just when I reached the anchor of the first pitch and anchored in, the rigid plasticky loop on my BD harness decided that it's time to pop. Of course my trax and ascender was on that loop... To add insult to injury the route was overhanging above.

Back to the present, removed the prusik, started to rap on grigri... and I was on the ground again. Remember, at the beginning I said the rope didn't reach the ground? Well, my ass did. My apprentice only said that his time is up, and he must go to pick up his girlfriend. When I asked him if he wants to climb this weekend, because the weather forecast shows a cold front coming, he said the he already has a program :)

Your method is very effective. After reading about it, I wouldn't climb with you either.

Jay


herites


Aug 6, 2012, 10:14 AM
Post #8 of 15 (1573 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 10, 2011
Posts: 210

Re: [bearbreeder] How to scare away from climbing (with you) and look like a clueless idiot [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (1 rating)  
Can't Post

To put it bluntlyI don't want to climb with someone who can't rescue him/herself or me when things go south. Part of that is the ability to ascend a rope with the gear on hand.

Most of the things you wrote can and should be taught on the spot but it's kinda hard to teach someone basic rescue methods when you are incapacitated Wink I wanted to put quite a few hours into the education of the guy before the first actual climb, but due to my own idiotism I'm back to rope soloing.


bearbreeder


Aug 6, 2012, 10:18 AM
Post #9 of 15 (1559 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Feb 1, 2009
Posts: 1960

Re: [herites] How to scare away from climbing (with you) and look like a clueless idiot [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (1 rating)  
Can't Post

i wouldnt want to climb with someone who put a newbie on routes where they may have to use a technique that they have barely practiced, and that person couldnt demonstrate properly ...

you want to go out and have fun, not pad yr ego by throwing them on something they cant get up on their first multi ...

as you so aptly demonstrated to that person, if you screw up which you did, its not exactly safe ...

he made a wise decision Tongue


herites


Aug 6, 2012, 10:21 AM
Post #10 of 15 (1551 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 10, 2011
Posts: 210

Re: [bearbreeder] How to scare away from climbing (with you) and look like a clueless idiot [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (1 rating)  
Can't Post

Yup, there's absolutely no chance that I get a heart attack, snake, whatever while belaying him and now he can either ascend the rope or hang there until someone finds him, or dies to suspension trauma/dehydration.


bearbreeder


Aug 6, 2012, 10:27 AM
Post #11 of 15 (1538 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Feb 1, 2009
Posts: 1960

Re: [herites] How to scare away from climbing (with you) and look like a clueless idiot [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

dont put him on a climb that doesnt have cell reception or isnt popular enough to see traffic ... not till he has enough comfort on multi

its much more likely that hell get confused by all yr jugging and mess something else up ...

you know that plenty of people here DONT belay off autoblock ... what happens if they get attacked by those vicious crag bears that live on belay ledges???

Tongue


Kartessa


Aug 6, 2012, 10:59 AM
Post #12 of 15 (1493 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 17, 2008
Posts: 7356

Re: [herites] How to scare away from climbing (with you) and look like a clueless idiot [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

As much as I hate to admit it, I have to agree with BB and JT... Taking a first-timer out while planning to get them in over their head is a pretty big dick move. And that's saying something.


chadnsc


Aug 6, 2012, 11:20 AM
Post #13 of 15 (1461 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 24, 2003
Posts: 4449

Re: [herites] How to scare away from climbing (with you) and look like a clueless idiot [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

herites wrote:
To put it bluntlyI don't want to climb with someone who can't rescue him/herself or me when things go south. Part of that is the ability to ascend a rope with the gear on hand.

The you shouldn't be climbing with people that you have to teach how to ascend a fixed line. Crazy

I agree with JT, and Bearbreeder on this one.


csproul


Aug 6, 2012, 11:44 AM
Post #14 of 15 (1441 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 4, 2004
Posts: 1765

Re: [herites] How to scare away from climbing (with you) and look like a clueless idiot [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

+1
JT and BB have it right. Blind leading the blind. Sounds like your new partner figured that out too.


shimanilami


Aug 6, 2012, 1:09 PM
Post #15 of 15 (1380 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jul 24, 2006
Posts: 2042

Re: [herites] How to scare away from climbing (with you) and look like a clueless idiot [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

You and Majid would be perfect for each other.


Forums : Climbing Information : General

 


Search for (options)

Log In:

Username:
Password: Remember me:

Go Register
Go Lost Password?



Follow us on Twiter Become a Fan on Facebook