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Starting a rack. Advice on cams?
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photocodo


Aug 4, 2012, 9:44 AM
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Starting a rack. Advice on cams?
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I am beginning to start a trad rack and am looking at my options for cams. I have mostly used BD camelots simply becasue that is what everyone I climb with have. I have played with a few others (metolious TCU, etc) but not enough I have a good feel for them. I guess my question is what cams are peoples favorites, and why? Price is also an issue and it seems that the BD camelots are pretty competitive with other brands with their pricing. Is there a brand that is commonly overlooked that I should try to get my hands on?
Thanks

Cody


jp_sucks


Aug 4, 2012, 11:36 AM
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Re: [photocodo] Starting a rack. Advice on cams? [In reply to]
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I own BD camalots, Wild Country flexible friends and Metolious 4cams. Been using all three for the pat 15 years and the BD ones are definitely my favourite.

Too bad though as Mountaingear.com just had a decent sale on BD Camalots. Think it's over now. Keep an eye out online for sales and wait till you can buy them for at least 20% off.

Keep an eye on spadout.com for sales on them.


jeepnphreak


Aug 4, 2012, 1:00 PM
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I like bd cams in the .75 to #5 sizes. I like wired bliss and Metolius in the smaller size cams. 00 to 5 or 6. (Metolius and bd number sizes don't correlate to eachother )


majid_sabet


Aug 4, 2012, 10:19 PM
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Re: [photocodo] Starting a rack. Advice on cams? [In reply to]
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just buy buy and buy more cams



Ned_Ludd


Aug 5, 2012, 3:19 AM
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Re: [photocodo] Starting a rack. Advice on cams? [In reply to]
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I prefer bd c4 above ~0.5. C3 #2,1,0 and alien cams are nice for smaller sizes. Its nice to carry a couple link cams for double ups.

A friend just bought a rack of rock empire cams, only advantage is they are cheap.


photocodo


Aug 5, 2012, 6:14 AM
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You say the only advantage is that they are cheap. Are there any disadvantages? At $20 less than BD they are looking very inviting. But if they are crap I wouldnt want to buy them.


Ned_Ludd


Aug 5, 2012, 8:37 AM
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My only exp climbing on the rock empire cams was last night with the single axle cams. Bd are more ergonomic ie thumb loop versus metal stem. And of course the rock empire cams have a smaller cramming ratio but I believe they make double axle cams which I am ASSUMING are a similar ratio to bd.

I wont say the rock empire are crap, I don't mind using them, however when I racked up to try onsight above my current grade I grabbed the bd's.


Marylandclimber


Aug 6, 2012, 8:34 AM
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Are Rock Empire cams safe? I've heard of allot of Cams breaking that aren't popular. Are the micro sizes safe?


rnevius


Aug 6, 2012, 9:08 AM
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Check this out for some cons of various cams: http://www.outdoorgearlab.com/Camming-Device-Reviews

A lot of the time, it just comes down to personal preference.


Partner cracklover


Aug 6, 2012, 9:16 AM
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Re: [photocodo] Starting a rack. Advice on cams? [In reply to]
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photocodo wrote:
I am beginning to start a trad rack and am looking at my options for cams. I have mostly used BD camelots simply becasue that is what everyone I climb with have. I have played with a few others (metolious TCU, etc) but not enough I have a good feel for them. I guess my question is what cams are peoples favorites, and why? Price is also an issue and it seems that the BD camelots are pretty competitive with other brands with their pricing. Is there a brand that is commonly overlooked that I should try to get my hands on?
Thanks

Cody

Don't bother buying sub-par cams now, you'll regret it later.

For thin-hands size and up, the only two types really worth considering for your first starter rack are BD C4s and WC Flexible Friends. Plenty of other cams will work, but... they all have issues of one sort or another.

For sizes smaller than BD C4 number .75, there are a number of options. BD C4 cams are still decent in the .5 and .4 size, but in that size and smaller many folks will prefer either one of the TCUs on the market (I include the BD C3 in that category) or one of the new Alien-type cams.

Cheers,

GO


bearbreeder


Aug 6, 2012, 9:34 AM
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Re: [photocodo] Starting a rack. Advice on cams? [In reply to]
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buy what you like using ... and listen to what other people who climb in the same area say ...

not some random RCers on the intraweb Wink

i personally like the dragons myself, but im not going to tell you thats what you should buy Tongue


ninepointeight


Aug 6, 2012, 12:26 PM
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Re: [photocodo] Starting a rack. Advice on cams? [In reply to]
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I have a set of C4s .5 - 3, Mastercams - 0-2, TCUs 3 and 4 but I'm also a noob so what do I know. I think it's good to have doubles of the smaller sizes in a 3 lobed cam.

I'm not crazy about the Mastercams because of the small surface area. TCUs give me a warm fuzzy feeling, but the action is crap. C4s have a great action and good surface area.


(This post was edited by ninepointeight on Aug 6, 2012, 12:30 PM)


shimanilami


Aug 6, 2012, 4:27 PM
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A woman I work with asked me to help her choose a birthday present for her climber boyfriend. She wanted to know whether to buy a #4, #5 or #6 C4. I asked if she knew what gear he already had, as those were somewhat specialized pieces. She said he didn't have any cams. "Does he have nuts?" I asked. "No," she said. "Quickdraws?" I asked. "No." "Does he have a rope?!", I asked incredulously. "No. He only boulders," she replied.

I told her to go with a #5 Big Bro and a beanie.


Marc1


Aug 7, 2012, 6:29 AM
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Re: [shimanilami] Starting a rack. Advice on cams? [In reply to]
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hey - u have so many options with cams these days - before you start buying and using them id make sure your good with nuts first - iv tried all cmas - and me personnally id stick with bd or master cams - the new wold country are nice but i think bd are smoother or just feel better - you could get a mox of bd and metelios - for medium to large cams you could get bd #1 X 2, #2 x2 and one size 3 - most common palcements i find are ones and twos so good to have two of each -

the four sizes in bd under one are good but not really that small - i would go for master cams in the smaller sizes - getfrom size one or two up - the tiny ones wouldnt hold a great fall - get a size 2,3, and four and double up if your rich - master cam range if you get a full set are nothing compared to other manufacturers but my god their beefy and tough looking little buggers - and they have more hold power than a bd - when you get one in a good placement you get a ' i could drop my house on it sort of feeling -

i have a full set of bd and master cams -

but if you mix and match per above you will cover all your basis - anything above a bd three you wont really use that much unless your climbing huge cracks -

anyway hope this helps as it can be a pain in the ass deciding, i know the feeling -

oh and sorry - dragon cams are great as they have the extender on them but again if you mix and match bd and metilous your covered -

cheers
marc


jdensign5


Aug 15, 2012, 4:27 PM
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Buy what you like, what you need for the routes you climb and double up on the most used ones


FullertonImages


Aug 15, 2012, 10:36 PM
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Re: [cracklover] Starting a rack. Advice on cams? [In reply to]
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cracklover wrote:
photocodo wrote:
I am beginning to start a trad rack and am looking at my options for cams. I have mostly used BD camelots simply becasue that is what everyone I climb with have. I have played with a few others (metolious TCU, etc) but not enough I have a good feel for them. I guess my question is what cams are peoples favorites, and why? Price is also an issue and it seems that the BD camelots are pretty competitive with other brands with their pricing. Is there a brand that is commonly overlooked that I should try to get my hands on?
Thanks


Cody

Don't bother buying sub-par cams now, you'll regret it later.

For thin-hands size and up, the only two types really worth considering for your first starter rack are BD C4s and WC Flexible Friends. Plenty of other cams will work, but... they all have issues of one sort or another.

For sizes smaller than BD C4 number .75, there are a number of options. BD C4 cams are still decent in the .5 and .4 size, but in that size and smaller many folks will prefer either one of the TCUs on the market (I include the BD C3 in that category) or one of the new Alien-type cams.

Cheers,

GO


Speaking of non C4s in the smaller sizes, I got to play with the up and coming BD X4s at the Outdoor Retailer show, and they pretty freaking sweet. Smooth action, flexible stem, and the range you would expect from a C4. I don't think they would ever make me not want my C4s, as I actually really like the smaller C4s, but they would make a killer supplement when doubling up.

Also, in enteral, C3s are PFM. They go places that nothing else on the market will go.


markc


Aug 16, 2012, 7:29 AM
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photocodo wrote:
You say the only advantage is that they are cheap. Are there any disadvantages? At $20 less than BD they are looking very inviting. But if they are crap I wouldnt want to buy them.

When I built my rack, I started off with Rock Empire Robots and Micro-Robots. There are a number of other RE models, which I don't have experience with. Despite their listed range, I seem to recall feeling like there were small gaps between some sizes. Especially on the #5, the lobe spacing seems really narrow. They're functional, but aren't as refined as other cams.

While Robots got me leading on a budget, I found that I replaced them rather quickly. I still carry a couple of the micro-robots, but that's mostly due to indecision regarding what smaller cams to replace them with. I'd suggest waiting for a sale on units you really want rather than compromising.


Kartessa


Aug 16, 2012, 7:47 AM
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Budget pro that you don't regret replacing




billcoe_


Sep 3, 2012, 8:29 AM
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Metolius and Black Diamond Camalots. The Camalots you will most likely be able to plug in faster due to familiarity and slightly larger range. The Metolius hold better.

Furthermore, if price is really an issue as you suggest, you can get Metolius 4 cam units used very cheaply. I bought an older set off Ebay that went cheap due to no slings, sent them to Metolius to be fixed up and reslung and for a total cost of just at $20 each (including all costs like freight) had what was essentially a new cam. Shiny and smooth, looked close to new. That is what my son got for Christmas for his first cams.

But he already had nuts.


photocodo wrote:
I am beginning to start a trad rack and am looking at my options for cams. I have mostly used BD camelots simply becasue that is what everyone I climb with have. I have played with a few others (metolious TCU, etc) but not enough I have a good feel for them. I guess my question is what cams are peoples favorites, and why? Price is also an issue and it seems that the BD camelots are pretty competitive with other brands with their pricing. Is there a brand that is commonly overlooked that I should try to get my hands on?
Thanks

Cody


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