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Keeping route endurance up w. access to only bouldering gym
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Aug 8, 2012, 1:47 PM
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Registered: Aug 8, 2012
Posts: 9

Keeping route endurance up w. access to only bouldering gym
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I recently moved, and for climbing during the week only have access to a small bouldering gym. Previously I could climb at a big gym with lead and top route routes. I typically did about 2 days a week there 3 hours leading and TR with a bit of bouldering.

Now I just do 2 - 3 days of bouldering about 2 hours each, I'm not much for sitting around and I don't wait too long between problems.

Now when I go lead outside on the weekends, or occasionally indoors, I notice my forearm endurance has dropped, though not my strength.

Wondering what any of you in a similar situation have done to help keep your endurance up. I know I may not be able to keep it quite where it was before, that's okay because of the increase in strength I've gotten from dedicated bouldering offsets it some.

just fyi I can't really do ARC drills in my bouldering gym it's small and overcrowded, spending 15 - 30 mins traversing around non stop isn't gonna happen. I can do 4x4s or whatever but not sure if that's the best drill for me.

I'm most interested in hearing from those of you who've actually dealt with this sort of problem, vs the theoretical :)

thanks in advance

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