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I'm Stuck on a Plateau
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RoryMcMahon


Aug 8, 2012, 10:59 PM
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I'm Stuck on a Plateau
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Please help me.

I'm stuck right around V4s and V5s. I've hit a plateau and I need a way to get through it.

When new problems come out at my gym, ill either flash them, or will spends weeks working on them with nothing to show for it. I'm just stuck. It's been almost a month since I completed a problem that I was working on.

Any training tips? How did you guys break through your first plateau?


sungam


Aug 9, 2012, 1:43 AM
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Re: [RoryMcMahon] I'm Stuck on a Plateau [In reply to]
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http://www.nicros.com/training/
http://www.planetfear.com/articles.archive.php (select the training section)
http://www.onlineclimbingcoach.blogspot.co.uk/ (dave MacLeod also has a great book called "9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes", it's worth getting)
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...ockprodigy__258.html

Also worth taking a look at your nutrition as well.
Gold Medal Nutrition is a great book.
Also see JT512's How to Lose Weight to Improve Your Climbing.


Train hard, beware of injuries, and best of luck with your improvement! Wink


ninepointeight


Aug 9, 2012, 7:39 AM
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Re: [RoryMcMahon] I'm Stuck on a Plateau [In reply to]
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I'd take that, I've been stuck on V2/V3 for about 6 months.

One thing I noticed recently is that I've been giving up too easily. I'll work it for 30 minutes, won't send and then I'll move on to another problem. If I spend the whole session on the problem I'll usually send. At the end of the night I'd rather go home with one V3 send and a few V2 repeats than five V3 failures. It's probably better for progression too.


(This post was edited by ninepointeight on Aug 9, 2012, 7:40 AM)


Scourge


Aug 13, 2012, 7:50 AM
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Re: [RoryMcMahon] I'm Stuck on a Plateau [In reply to]
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sometimes, for me,getting "burned out" can cause a plateau. when this happens i will take a few days-a week off to clear my head. do other activities.

also, something that seems to help me is to stop climbing at my max redpoint grade for a while and climb a few grades lower and really focus on technique as much as possible. for instance, if you can send a v3 in 5 tries or less, pick a few v3s that you have already done and know the movements. climb those over and over focusing on perfecting the movements. i try to do this about once a week now


edge


Aug 13, 2012, 9:04 AM
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Re: [RoryMcMahon] I'm Stuck on a Plateau [In reply to]
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RoryMcMahon wrote:
Please help me.

I'm stuck right around V4s and V5s. I've hit a plateau and I need a way to get through it.

When new problems come out at my gym, ill either flash them, or will spends weeks working on them with nothing to show for it. I'm just stuck. It's been almost a month since I completed a problem that I was working on.

Any training tips? How did you guys break through your first plateau?

That's just part of the progression of climbing; good advice above.

Now this guy was really stuck on a plateau:

Wikipedia wrote:
In 1941 George Hopkins parachuted on to Devils Tower, without permission, as a publicity stunt resulting from a bet. He had intended to descend by a rope dropped with him, but this failed to land on the tower summit. Hopkins was stranded for six days exposed to cold, rain and 50 mph winds before a mountain rescue team finally reached him and brought him down.[20][21] His entrapment and subsequent rescue was widely covered by the media of the time.




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