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manboy
Aug 13, 2001, 9:43 PM
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Here is the formula that many good climbers i know, and myself, use to determine how much climbing you should be doing each day, "the point system". (for sport climbing)
Your Goal is always 7 points per day
if you are a 5.12 climber (have climbed at least five 5.12's or a 12b or harder):
Every 5.12 = 1.5 points
Every 5.11 = 1 point
Every 5.10 = 0.5 points
to get the points for "doing" a route, you just need to do all the moves on it and get to the top, you don't need to redpoint it. Here is an example of a typical day for a 5.12 climber:
warm-up:
-two 5.10's and one 5.11 = 2
project:
-two tries on project 5.12c = 3
more climbing:
-5.12a = 1.5
cool-down:
-5.11 = 1
this would be a 7.5 point day for the 5.12 climber, and thus very good.
the scale varries depending on how hard you climb:
5.11 climber:
5.11 = 1.5 points
5.10 = 1 point
5.9 = 0.5 points
5.13 climber:
5.13 = 1.5 points
5.12 = 1 point
5.11 = 0.5 points
Just remember to try to get 7 points or more per day and to have fun doing it!
[ This Message was edited by: manboy on 2001-08-13 14:45 ]
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fiend
Aug 13, 2001, 10:01 PM
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That's a cool way to look at it. Where did this system come from? and do you try to always get in a 7pt day or do 4pts somedays, and 9pts other days?
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broganadams
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Aug 13, 2001, 10:39 PM
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Manboy your the man. Too bad you cant climb stairs right now.
Brogan
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manboy
Aug 13, 2001, 11:21 PM
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fiend, i heard about this system last summer in Rifle, alot of good climbers were all using it,and YES you want to try to get at least 7 points EVERY climbing day, but if you can get more, say 9 or 10, dude, all the power to you, but try to always get at least 7.
brogan, i am seeing my doctor August 23rd and he will hopefully give me the 'ok' to start climbing again, so i'm going to be CRRRRRAAAAAAAAANKING SOON!!!! untill then, i did go climbing on saturday with one foot, i did a really steep 5.13a/b with only one foot. but because i only had one foot, i had to campus the crux and it is probably 13c or d. really cool and really fun, i was psyched.
C-ya at the crag SOON
[ This Message was edited by: manboy on 2001-08-13 16:25 ]
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krillen
Aug 13, 2001, 11:31 PM
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I'd quickly like to say two things manboy...
1.)excellent system, good for people taht needs direction and a push when lounging at the crag is more desirable.
2.) fuq you, and your climbing 5.13 on one leg. I am jealous and hate you. [grin]
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fiend
Aug 14, 2001, 12:47 AM
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hahaha, my sentiments exactly
Honestly though, I get so inspired when I hear stuff like that. Steve, I need someone to push me climbingwise so if you wanna climb before you take off then let me know.
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manboy
Aug 14, 2001, 12:56 AM
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fiend, i am FAT right now, i just realized!!! yuk. but for sure i'll be climbing in Ontario a whole bunch before i go on the road again (IF i go on the road again, that is SO SO SO far away, it's hard to imagine. i am SO broke, and need to make some money SOON).
about climbing with one foot, if you could climb 5.11, do you think that climbing 5.10's with one foot would be hard? it's all relative right. please don't hate me (smile). when i hurt my other knee three years ago, i did Thursting Skull 12c in Kentucky with one foot, i was way more proud of that, then i am of climbing 5.13- one footed now, because back then 12d was my hardest two-foot redpoint.
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krillen
Aug 14, 2001, 1:08 AM
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Fiend I can push you, but it will be down or off the cliff. I'm jealous of you too. i'm jealous of EVERYONE!!! [grin]
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cleavoncox
Aug 10, 2012, 4:21 AM
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Does it work for bouldering too? Or is the scale different.
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shotwell
Aug 10, 2012, 3:06 PM
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This thread is 11 years old. Do you really expect any of the posters listed above to answer your question?
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chadnsc
Aug 10, 2012, 5:59 PM
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Just because it's an old thread doesn't mean he can't ask. Now shfu n00b.
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marc801
Aug 10, 2012, 9:32 PM
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chadnsc wrote: Just because it's an old thread doesn't mean he can't ask.
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shotwell
Aug 11, 2012, 12:17 AM
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marc801 wrote: chadnsc wrote: Just because it's an old thread doesn't mean he can't ask. However it's probably good practice for whoever raises the dead to acknowledge that they realize they've created a zombie. Otherwise they just appear clueless.
Actually, I specifically responded because there is very little merit in seeking out 11 year old fad training advice. There is certainly a 'right' amount of climbing for optimum performance, but what that is varies per individual, training style, and performance goals. Additionally, it was quickly evident that none of the original posters are active on the site, nor is it likely that this was ever popular outside of Rifle for a single season.
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guangzhou
Aug 11, 2012, 3:10 AM
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[quote "manboy"]Here is the formula that many good climbers i know, and myself, use to determine how much climbing you should be doing each day, "the point system". (for sport climbing)
Your Goal is always 7 points per day
if you are a 5.12 climber (have climbed at least five 5.12's or a 12b or harder):
Every 5.12 = 1.5 points
Every 5.11 = 1 point
Every 5.10 = 0.5 points
to get the points for "doing" a route, you just need to do all the moves on it and get to the top, you don't need to redpoint it. Here is an example of a typical day for a 5.12 climber:
warm-up:
-two 5.10's and one 5.11 = 2
project:
-two tries on project 5.12c = 3
more climbing:
-5.12a = 1.5
cool-down:
-5.11 = 1
this would be a 7.5 point day for the 5.12 climber, and thus very good.
the scale varries depending on how hard you climb:
5.11 climber:
5.11 = 1.5 points
5.10 = 1 point
5.9 = 0.5 points
5.13 climber:
5.13 = 1.5 points
5.12 = 1 point
5.11 = 0.5 points
Just remember to try to get 7 points or more per day and to have fun doing it!
[ This Message was edited by: manboy on 2001-08-13 14:45 ][/quote]
This looks a lot like a training routine Hans Florine described in a video I saw roughly 11 years ago. Was related to climbing the Nose in a day if I remember correctly.
Can't remember the details, I'm sure it can be googled.
He also had dips, push-up, and pull-ups as alternatives.
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johnwesely
Aug 11, 2012, 12:41 PM
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In reply to: This looks a lot like a training routine Hans Florine described in a video I saw roughly 11 years ago. Was related to climbing the Nose in a day if I remember correctly. Can't remember the details, I'm sure it can be googled. He also had dips, push-up, and pull-ups as alternatives.
I saw it in Masters of Stone VI.
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cleavoncox
Aug 11, 2012, 4:01 PM
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Oh snap, didnt realize it was that old. Well, At least I got it started again! Sorry guys.
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RedRightHand
Nov 6, 2012, 10:06 AM
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I have been using your method in my last climbing sessions. Really helps me keep track of how much climbing i still need to do to get a consistent workout.
What if you climb a route above your established level?
I think I'll just give myself two points 
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