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Bolts with loose hangers - how much of a problem?
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dagibbs


Aug 8, 2012, 6:07 PM
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Bolts with loose hangers - how much of a problem?
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I was climbing at Rumney last weekend and I encountered quite a number of bolts with loose hangars, that is bolts where the hangar was loose to spin, and even in some cases where the nut hold the hangar on the bolt was loose enough to be turned with my fingers. How safe/unsafe are such bolts? Can they just be tightened up? Should I take to climbing with a wrench?


wrbill


Aug 8, 2012, 7:56 PM
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Re: [dagibbs] Bolts with loose hangers - how much of a problem? [In reply to]
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You can just tighten them up but make sure you look to see if there is any rusting or other reasons for them to be loose. When you do tighten them make sure not to over tighten. A good rule of thumb is when the nut is sung, tighten 1/4 of a turn, Yes this is not a hard a fast rule and not tighting them by the book, but who takes a torque wrench with them.

Just don't over tighten them!!!!!!


majid_sabet


Aug 8, 2012, 9:00 PM
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Re: [dagibbs] Bolts with loose hangers - how much of a problem? [In reply to]
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there is a nut tool that has 4 nut size wrench built-in to it and it should fit all typical climbing bolt nut size but can't remember who make it

may be camp or DMM.

climbhigh ?


(This post was edited by majid_sabet on Aug 9, 2012, 10:11 AM)


ecade


Aug 9, 2012, 6:53 AM
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Re: [majid_sabet] Bolts with loose hangers - how much of a problem? [In reply to]
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majid_sabet wrote:
there is a nut tool that has 4 nut size wrench built-in to it and it should fit all typical climbing bolt nut size but can;t remember who make it

may be camp or DMM.


I believe it is the nutbuster

Aside from an incredible name, one of the wrench sizes works great as an after beer bottle opener.


JimTitt


Aug 9, 2012, 7:21 AM
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Re: [dagibbs] Bolts with loose hangers - how much of a problem? [In reply to]
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Unsafe or not depends on what type of bolt they are, wedge (thru) bolts are just as good when they are loose, multi-piece decidly worrying.
Why there are so many loose is the big question, an occassional spinner can be expected but more than that implies the bolts are too small and are generally moving, this really ought to be checked out by someone with a lot of experience and preferably a tester.
The DMM nutkey has a hex hole for 10mm bolts so 17mm, Grivel do one with 13mm,17mm and 19mm. Both are pretty marginal for properly tightening bolts and wonīt fit US sizes anyway.


dagibbs


Aug 9, 2012, 7:23 AM
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Re: [majid_sabet] Bolts with loose hangers - how much of a problem? [In reply to]
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majid_sabet wrote:
there is a nut tool that has 4 nut size wrench built-in to it and it should fit all typical climbing bolt nut size but can;t remember who make it

may be camp or DMM.

The problem I see with that, is that it may be hard to get the nut tool over the nut because of the hangar, and likely impossible to turn it without turning the hangar.


Partner cracklover


Aug 9, 2012, 8:32 AM
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Re: [dagibbs] Bolts with loose hangers - how much of a problem? [In reply to]
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dagibbs wrote:
majid_sabet wrote:
there is a nut tool that has 4 nut size wrench built-in to it and it should fit all typical climbing bolt nut size but can;t remember who make it

may be camp or DMM.

The problem I see with that, is that it may be hard to get the nut tool over the nut because of the hangar, and likely impossible to turn it without turning the hangar.

If you have to turn an entire hangar just to tighten one nut, I think you're approaching the whole thing wrong:



GO


dagibbs


Aug 9, 2012, 8:36 AM
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Re: [cracklover] Bolts with loose hangers - how much of a problem? [In reply to]
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cracklover wrote:
dagibbs wrote:
majid_sabet wrote:
there is a nut tool that has 4 nut size wrench built-in to it and it should fit all typical climbing bolt nut size but can;t remember who make it

may be camp or DMM.

The problem I see with that, is that it may be hard to get the nut tool over the nut because of the hangar, and likely impossible to turn it without turning the hangar.

If you have to turn an entire hangar just to tighten one nut, I think you're approaching the whole thing wrong:

[image]http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/9/98/Tustin_Blimp_Hangar_No_2.jpg[/image]

GO

Yup. Clearly I can't spell consistently, can I? I got it right in the title of the thread, but failed the rest of the way through.

Of course, if I can find a long enough wrench... maybe I can turn the whole hangar!


potreroed


Aug 9, 2012, 10:30 AM
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Re: [dagibbs] Bolts with loose hangers - how much of a problem? [In reply to]
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Since I climb a lot of bolted routes I do keep a small crescent wrench on my harness at all times.


jdensign5


Aug 9, 2012, 10:43 AM
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Re: [dagibbs] Bolts with loose hangers - how much of a problem? [In reply to]
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Metolius Torque Nut Tool. You can tighten a bit, pull it off, reposition, and tighten some more.



(This post was edited by jdensign5 on Aug 15, 2012, 11:31 AM)
Attachments: ONECOL.jpg (16.6 KB)


dagibbs


Aug 9, 2012, 10:46 AM
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Re: [potreroed] Bolts with loose hangers - how much of a problem? [In reply to]
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potreroed wrote:
Since I climb a lot of bolted routes I do keep a small crescent wrench on my harness at all times.

Yeah, I'm thinking of adding one to my usual harness stuff, too.


herites


Aug 9, 2012, 4:23 PM
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Re: [potreroed] Bolts with loose hangers - how much of a problem? [In reply to]
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This. I'm doing the same. Try to get one with drilled holes in the body (lighter weight+can tie a cord to them)


USnavy


Aug 13, 2012, 3:04 PM
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Re: [dagibbs] Bolts with loose hangers - how much of a problem? [In reply to]
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dagibbs wrote:
I was climbing at Rumney last weekend and I encountered quite a number of bolts with loose hangars, that is bolts where the hangar was loose to spin, and even in some cases where the nut hold the hangar on the bolt was loose enough to be turned with my fingers. How safe/unsafe are such bolts? Can they just be tightened up? Should I take to climbing with a wrench?
Unfortunately this is a complicated question and the correct answer can only be provided on a case by case study. However, the general rule of thumb is if only the hanger is loose, it is probably safe. However, if the bolt moves, it may not be safe, especially if it is a glue-in bolt. If the nut on a wedge bolt is loose, but the stud itself is not, just tighten the nut and move on, it is likely safe. But again, if the bolt itself ever moves, don't trust it!


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