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finger strength question
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david_n_raines


Aug 16, 2012, 10:26 AM
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finger strength question
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All -

I'm trying to figure out what the best way to train for finger strength is. I can't use hangboards, because of my shoulders, but am considering doing "heavy finger rolls", ala Eric Horst:

http://www.nicros.com/training/articles/eastern-bloc-training-heavy-finger-rolls/

Does anyone have experience with this exercise? Did you do it and have it work? Did it not help at all? I'm not trying to start a general "is weighlifting useful in rock climbing" thread. :) I'm just curious about this exercise as an alternative to hangboard work, or "just climbing".

About me:

I've been climbing for about 5 years (first entirely trad, now sport). I lead my first 5.12a(outdoors) a couple weekends ago, and can usually redpoint 5.11+'s in 5-7 attempts. I feel like my endurance and my general redpointing skills are pretty good. I'm looking for a specific, structured finger-strength training plan / exercise, because "just climbing" probably isn't going to help me much at this point.

When I'm gym climbing, I feel like the biggest thing limiting me on either routes or boulder problems is finger strength - on the routes I can't do, there's usually a single hold I just can't hold onto. (on the other hand, if I can do all the moves, I can usually string the route together).

I can do 12 chest-to-bar pullups without pain, but I can't deadhang.

Thanks for any advice!

-David


(This post was edited by david_n_raines on Aug 16, 2012, 10:26 AM)


camhead


Aug 16, 2012, 10:47 AM
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Re: [david_n_raines] finger strength question [In reply to]
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I have not done a lot of heavy finger rolls, precisely because I think that hangboarding works better, but for someone in your situation they very well might be the key.

However, I have found that one of the great strengths of hangboards is that they train a variety of grip strengths (pinches, pockets, flat and sloping crimps). I'm not sure how you could get that variety with finger rolls, apart from maybe trying some two finger rolls or something.

Good luck!


david_n_raines


Aug 16, 2012, 11:58 AM
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Re: [camhead] finger strength question [In reply to]
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Yeah, finger rolls aren't as specific to climbing. If you go through a full range of motion, you can hit different muscles that control your fingers (i.e., holding the bar with your finger tips uses different muscle than when you're closing your hand and rolling up), so hopefully it'll build up the muscle's that get used in the different hand positions, even if I'm not getting the specific benefits I'd see with a hangboard.

Thanks.


dancottle


Aug 16, 2012, 2:25 PM
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Re: [david_n_raines] finger strength question [In reply to]
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Here's an idea. Upside down-unmounted hangboard with a way to attach weight to the top(bottom when upside down) of it. The board may tilt depending on how you mount the cord so it could make it easier or harder.


david_n_raines


Aug 16, 2012, 2:34 PM
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Re: [dancottle] finger strength question [In reply to]
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Haha. I actually do that. I use a pair of Metolius Rock Rings, and do Farmer's Walks with them attached to dumbbells. Kind of like this:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HrjPOiqkHkM

Its a really good power-endurance workout, but I'm afraid to load the rock rings with anything close to my full bodyweight because I'm afraid I'd drop them on my feet. But 1/2 bodyweight is a pumpy P/E workout :)

Thanks.


dancottle


Aug 16, 2012, 2:38 PM
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Re: [david_n_raines] finger strength question [In reply to]
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Use a barbel and put the cords around it before you load up the weights. You wont be able to drop it on your foot then.


david_n_raines


Aug 16, 2012, 2:55 PM
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Re: [dancottle] finger strength question [In reply to]
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oh.
That's a good idea, thanks. The gym that I climb at has bumper plates for their crossfit class, I could probably use those... I'm not totally sure where the bar is going to hang in relation to my knees, but I'm think I can work that out...
That's still going to be a lot of moderately heavy deadlifts in a night, but I think my lower back can handle that... interesting.

Thanks.
-David


(This post was edited by david_n_raines on Aug 16, 2012, 2:57 PM)


ceebo


Aug 23, 2012, 11:09 AM
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Re: [david_n_raines] finger strength question [In reply to]
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Add weight to a cord and the other end to various grip types that can be changed. Fix the length so yo ucan sit at a table and have the cord run off the other end and the weight sitting on the floor. Elbows on table forearms flat and fingers pulling in on the holds. You get the right distance and weights lift slightly off floor.

Maybe too much weight on shoulder but you can cut triangle block and ramp your arms up it and this angle takes weight off more and puts it onto arm bones. Sorry if its bad explination.


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