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Question about Rock Prodigy rest cycle
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pedro_sandchez


Aug 19, 2012, 1:57 PM
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Question about Rock Prodigy rest cycle
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So this year I sat down and dedicated myself to following a periodized schedule to try to improve my climbing. It has been great and really helped me stay committed and psyched. Now I'm on the down swing of the peak/sending cycle. It feels good because I accomplished a lot in my peak phase, sent all of the projects I wanted to and even some others I didn't expect to. I'm now consistently sending V6 which is two whole grades up from where was in March.

So now I'm moving to the rest phase. I felt like my peak phase lasted a little longer than I expected because I was continuously ticking off a new letter grade every weekend for six weeks. however, this weekend I started feeling a significant drop off in power and endurance, signifying that it's time to start a rest cycle.

My question is this, for those of you who do periodized training, what exactly do you do during the rest phase? I do have a trip planned this coming weekend that will be four days at Horseshoe Canyon Ranch. Sadly this trip wasn't time very well (in the midst of a rest phase) but it is when my friends could go so that's when we planned it. I'm thinking that I will rest all this week. Just have a fund weekend with at HCR, mostly doing easier routes. Then rest for another two weeks before starting a new HYP phase.

Aside from this trip during the rest phase, should I continue to climb/boulder easier grades less frequently or should I take this as an opportunity to cut out climbing for a couple of weeks and focus on cross training such as yoga and running?

Thanks for your help. Hoping my next periodized cycle yields similar gains as this one did! I have a long climbing trip to the RRG over Thanksgiving, so I'm going to time this cycle so I peak on that trip.

Adam


climb4free


Aug 20, 2012, 7:36 AM
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Re: [pedro_sandchez] Question about Rock Prodigy rest cycle [In reply to]
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Not sure if this will be right on track, but here is my experience:

First note: I have utilized the RockProdigy article in combination with SCC. I have also tweaked it considerably to fit my life.

I only do one dedicated cycle in the winter. Then during the remaining 3 quarters, I do modified cycles that balance out the ability to have decent performance days throughout the spring, summer, and fall. Because of my family schedule, I'd rather have a more gradual growth than steep peaks and valleys.

Therefore, the major rest cycles are positioned at the end of the fall season for 10-14 days and at the end of my winter training cycle for 14 days. In them I do zero climbing. A little work on the antagonist muscle groups and a little cardio, but mainly REST & RECUPERATION. I let my body heal as completely as possible.

When I ease into my winter cycle, I start with a couple weeks of just ARC and Technique workouts.

My "in season" workouts are a rotation similar to below(replace HYP with POW or 4x4, etc.):

Week 1 = OFF - HYP - OFF - Technique - OFF - HYP - OFF
Week 2 = Technique - OFF - HYP - ARC - OFF - OFF - "Send"

I then have a mid summer One WEEK Rest.

Results(may or may not be impressive): Onsight increased by 1 full # grade & Redpoint increased by 3 letter grades. My 3 hardest redpoints have only taken one working burn and then send, so I think I could redpoint harder if I tried.

Edited to add: Also, I have not had a single finger injury. My only injury was a rib head displaced from playing pick-up football.

Hope this helps, otherwise ignore Wink


(This post was edited by climb4free on Aug 20, 2012, 7:48 AM)


shotwell


Aug 20, 2012, 7:44 AM
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Re: [pedro_sandchez] Question about Rock Prodigy rest cycle [In reply to]
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You might ask in the training forum on Mountain Project. The man himself posts there, and could likely best answer your question.


pedro_sandchez


Aug 20, 2012, 11:42 AM
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Re: [climb4free] Question about Rock Prodigy rest cycle [In reply to]
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Thanks for the help.
This is exactly what I was looking for.


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