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Sport or Trad in Europe??
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kilgymrats


Aug 28, 2012, 7:32 PM
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Sport or Trad in Europe??
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What's up fellow climbing world. It's been a loooooong time since I posted, but good to see everyone still arguing and calling each other names. Tongue

Quick question for all the Euros here. I'm moving to Switzerland next week and plan to do some climbing and to teach my, soon to be new, Swiss wife. My question is.. are most of the routes Trad or Sport?

I've got a haul bag full of gear and don't know what is the most important to bring. I will eventually be shipping it all over, but was wondering what was best to take over immediately. From what i've gathered it seems like most routes are bolted....even multi-pitch routes. Is this true?

Any help would be great. Thanks so much and stay safe!!! Cheers!


qwert


Aug 30, 2012, 7:43 AM
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Re: [kilgymrats] Sport or Trad in Europe?? [In reply to]
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kilgymrats wrote:
From what i've gathered it seems like most routes are bolted....even multi-pitch routes. Is this true?
Well, switzerland is where "plaisir" got invented, which essentially means that you have multipitch routes - often even in an alpine setting - boltet at sports climbing standard. And the whole thing is quite popular in switzerland (as it is in many other parts of the alps).
Also most single pitch stuff in europe is sport.
So i would say its indeed mostly sport climbing.

But that is not to say that you cannot find trad if you are so inclined. With single pitch is probably the hardest, but even then, most areas will have a few clean routes. I dont know any specific ones for switzerland, but you also can find a few single pitch trad areas, but outside the alps, you mostly have to look very hard.

But as with every trend, there is a new trend that goes against it, so some folks are moving back to develop mew routes in traditional style, even if they think that it could become a quite popular route, but as of now i would say that the amount of bolts is pretty much inversily proportional to the remoteness of a route.

qwert


kilgymrats


Aug 30, 2012, 8:21 AM
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Re: [qwert] Sport or Trad in Europe?? [In reply to]
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Qwert..

Thanks so much for your response! I will eventually get all my gear over to Switzerland, but I just wanted to know what was most popular so I knew what equipment to have with me right away.

Sounds like a rack of quickdraws is going to cover me for the most part. Lightweight and easy to carry.. sounds good to me. Thanks for your information!

Cheers!


JimTitt


Aug 30, 2012, 10:56 AM
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Re: [kilgymrats] Sport or Trad in Europe?? [In reply to]
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It“s variable and Qwert“s, the Swiss (and my) idea of sport climbing might be a little different to what you are used to. A half set of nuts and a few cams in the 1.5 to3 sizes in your sack are occasionally not to be sneered at!


degaine


Sep 3, 2012, 12:00 AM
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Re: [kilgymrats] Sport or Trad in Europe?? [In reply to]
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Where in Switzerland will you be moving? (if not confidential)

There are a plethora of easy, well bolted, learning crags all throughout the Alps. Best to teach your wife to climb there.

However, I'd go with Jim's recommendation: bring a set of nuts, and a few cams, "just in case" for a longer, multi-pitch climb, although most well-known limestone climbs are well bolted (and don't take gear).

Have fun and good luck with the move.


herites


Sep 10, 2012, 3:56 PM
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Re: [qwert] Sport or Trad in Europe?? [In reply to]
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You can find plenty of multipitch trad in the Tįtra and around, and single-pitch trad in north-eastern Hungary, and it's not boring limestone either (andesit)


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