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Cds26
Jul 24, 2012, 5:32 PM
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Registered: Jun 19, 2012
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Hey, I have done a decent amount of single pitch, and a couple of 2 pitch sport climbs, but am looking to try something a bit longer and more committing, though not necessarily death-defyingly insane. I am wondering where one can find possibly a 3-4, maybe 5 pitch sport route in either Leavenworth or Squamish? Though anywhere in WA state would be helpful. As far as difficulty, probably no more than 5.9, though 5.7/5.8 is more ideal.
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alpineape
Jul 24, 2012, 7:44 PM
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For sport in that range, Exit 38 near North Bend would likely be your best bet. There are a few multi-pitch routes that are worthwhile: The Plank is a fun three pitches (5.9, .10a, 5.7), and there are a couple other two pitch climbs in that area worth doing. Leavenworth and Squamish are definitely more trad oriented and what sport climbs there are in those areas tend to be on the stiffer side.
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USnavy
Jul 25, 2012, 1:36 AM
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Registered: Nov 5, 2007
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Cds26 wrote: Hey, I have done a decent amount of single pitch, and a couple of 2 pitch sport climbs, but am looking to try something a bit longer and more committing, though not necessarily death-defyingly insane. I am wondering where one can find possibly a 3-4, maybe 5 pitch sport route in either Leavenworth or Squamish? Though anywhere in WA state would be helpful. As far as difficulty, probably no more than 5.9, though 5.7/5.8 is more ideal.
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jamesnater
Aug 10, 2012, 7:17 PM
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Registered: Nov 17, 2011
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Condorphamine Addiction in Leavenworth, WA!
I just climbed this route about 3 - 4 weeks ago. The crux pitches are 10b though, but they are pitch 5 & 6. And you can climb up to pitch 4 only if you want.
It's a 7 pitch slab sport climb. The hike sucks, but not too bad if you do the hike up before 8am before it gets too hot. Watch out for rattlers, they are EVERYWHERE. And there are many game trails too, so try not to get lost like we did. I had so much fun, topping out had me smiling ear-to-ear. The 2nd crux pitch is soooo good!
Here's the summit post topo: http://www.summitpost.org/...ine-addiction/164618
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chris
Aug 20, 2012, 10:51 PM
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Registered: Feb 4, 2003
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The Plank is at Mt Erie, not Exit 38. Its a great and adventurous 5.8. There are other link ups and multi-pitch routes at Mt Erie as well.
The only multi-pitch route at Exit 38 is Easy Street (5.6, 2 pitches).
Infinite Bliss IS NOT A SPORT CLIMB. There is a significant route-finding element, especially on the lower 6 pitches and the 120m+ 3rd/4th class section that seems to throw many parties off. It can best be described as a bolted alpine climb.
Condorphamine Addiction is a great climb. The crux pitches are well (arguably over-) bolted (watch out for the z-clip through the crux!). Unfortunately, its also one-of-a-kind. But, as it was mentioned above, you can climb pitches 1-4 at a lower grad and immediately start rapping from the anchors at P4.
Two other great routes are Prime Rib of Goat and the Inspiration Route in Mazama. Both are long (10+ pitches), but you can turn around at any point and rappel the route (which is the normal descent). Prime Rib is 5.9, and Inspiration is 5.9+.
Another option is to head down to Smith (in another month). Where Ever I May Roam (5.9) is one of my favorite multi-pitch climbs there, and the Marsupial Traverse (aka The Wildest Ride in the Park, 5.8, long) is a great "alpine" outing.
But seriously, you need to buckle down and climb trad, or go spend a month in El Portrero (see you there!).
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jamesnater
Aug 29, 2012, 6:54 PM
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Registered: Nov 17, 2011
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I agree the crux pitches on Condorphamine is pretty much a bolt ladder, but still worth it for sure.
There must be more than one "The Plank". Because Exit 38, at the Lost Boys area (all the climbs are peter pan-themed) there is a 3 pitch 10a sport climb.
The lost boys area is relatively new. It's in the 2nd edition guidebook anyway.
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healyje
Aug 29, 2012, 7:17 PM
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Registered: Aug 22, 2004
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chris wrote: Infinite Bliss IS NOT A SPORT CLIMB.
Yes, it is.
p1 - 5.6 / 120' / 2 bolts
p2 - 5.4 / 110' / 4 bolts
p3 - 5.4 / 100' / 2 bolts
p4 - 5.6 / 100' / 9 bolts
p5 - 5.5 / 110' / 9 bolts
p6 - 5.7 / 160' / 5 bolts
p7 - 5.6 / 190' / 7 bolts (walk)
p8 - 5.5 / 200' / 3 bolts
p9 - 5.9 / 160' / 10 bolts
p10 - 5.8 / 100' / 7 bolts
p11 - 10b / 90' / 9 bolts (walk)
p12 - 5.8 / 110' / 6 bolts
p13 - 5.2 / 130' / 1 bolts
p14 - 5.7 / 160' / 10 bolts
p15 - 5.2 / 160' / 2 bolts
p16 - 5.0 / 80' / 0 bolts
p17 - 5.0 / 140' / 0 bolts
p18 - 5.8 / 110' / 8 bolts
p19 - 10c / 130' / 17 bolts
p20 - 5.7 / 60' / 2 bolts
p21 - 10a / 180' / 15 bolts
p22 - 5.8 / 160' / 11 bolts
p23 - 5.9 / 90' / 14 bolts
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redlude97
Aug 29, 2012, 7:28 PM
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chris wrote: The only multi-pitch route at Exit 38 is Easy Street (5.6, 2 pitches).
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chris
Aug 30, 2012, 3:57 AM
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Registered: Feb 4, 2003
Posts: 94
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Red and James, you're absolutely right. Interstate Park has a two pitch route as well. I should have grabbed a guidebook before I wagged my mouth.
I've disagreed with Joseph about Infinite Bliss elsewhere. I'm not convinced that simply because it uses bolts for protection, it automatically qualifies as a "sport" climb.
(This post was edited by chris on Aug 30, 2012, 4:06 AM)
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USnavy
Aug 31, 2012, 12:13 AM
Post #10 of 12
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Registered: Nov 5, 2007
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healyje wrote: chris wrote: Infinite Bliss IS NOT A SPORT CLIMB. Yes, it is. p1 - 5.6 / 120' / 2 bolts p2 - 5.4 / 110' / 4 bolts p3 - 5.4 / 100' / 2 bolts p4 - 5.6 / 100' / 9 bolts p5 - 5.5 / 110' / 9 bolts p6 - 5.7 / 160' / 5 bolts p7 - 5.6 / 190' / 7 bolts (walk) p8 - 5.5 / 200' / 3 bolts p9 - 5.9 / 160' / 10 bolts p10 - 5.8 / 100' / 7 bolts p11 - 10b / 90' / 9 bolts (walk) p12 - 5.8 / 110' / 6 bolts p13 - 5.2 / 130' / 1 bolts p14 - 5.7 / 160' / 10 bolts p15 - 5.2 / 160' / 2 bolts p16 - 5.0 / 80' / 0 bolts p17 - 5.0 / 140' / 0 bolts p18 - 5.8 / 110' / 8 bolts p19 - 10c / 130' / 17 bolts p20 - 5.7 / 60' / 2 bolts p21 - 10a / 180' / 15 bolts p22 - 5.8 / 160' / 11 bolts p23 - 5.9 / 90' / 14 bolts
I have photos of the runout sections if anyone wants to see them.
(This post was edited by USnavy on Aug 31, 2012, 12:18 AM)
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healyje
Aug 31, 2012, 3:16 AM
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Registered: Aug 22, 2004
Posts: 4200
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How they missed the via ferrata cables on those sections is one of life's enduring mysteries.
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areyoumydude
Aug 31, 2012, 6:20 PM
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Registered: Dec 28, 2003
Posts: 1971
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17 bolts for 130ft of 5.10 climbing? That's not sport climbing, that's wanker climbing.
Besides sport climbing starts at 5.12. Everybody knows that.
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