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First Trad Lead Spots in Western PA
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viavelo


Aug 31, 2012, 7:36 PM
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First Trad Lead Spots in Western PA
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I was recently given a rack by a friend of mine and am anxious to us it. Does anyone have any suggestions on good places to start out? I'm looking for 5.5's and under with a nice, easy G rating. I live in Pittsburgh and don't have the time to day trip more than a couple hours. Any suggestions would be helpful.

My rack consists of cams sizes .4-3 with doubles of .5. Two #5 hexentrics, #9 wild country hex, and a set of nuts size 3-12.


YouWill787


Sep 7, 2012, 9:41 PM
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Re: [viavelo] First Trad Lead Spots in Western PA [In reply to]
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I don't know of any trad specifically. However, up near New castle there is Mcconnells mill park. There are developed sport routes in the main park area and then climbing is allowed down near breakneck bridge. I'm sure if you explored around a bit you'd find something easy you could at least practice placing gear on.


viavelo


Sep 7, 2012, 11:03 PM
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Re: [YouWill787] First Trad Lead Spots in Western PA [In reply to]
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thanks for the suggestion. i climb at the mill a little bit, but havent yet since getting the rack together. ill have to take another look at it soon. ive been getting spoiled with seneca and its plethora of trad climbing. im just at a loss when i come back to pgh for spots that are close.

ive heard of some stuff at coopers, anyone have experience leading there?


stagg54


Sep 8, 2012, 12:27 AM
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Re: [viavelo] First Trad Lead Spots in Western PA [In reply to]
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viavelo wrote:
I was recently given a rack by a friend of mine and am anxious to us it. Does anyone have any suggestions on good places to start out? I'm looking for 5.5's and under with a nice, easy G rating. I live in Pittsburgh and don't have the time to day trip more than a couple hours. Any suggestions would be helpful.

My rack consists of cams sizes .4-3 with doubles of .5. Two #5 hexentrics, #9 wild country hex, and a set of nuts size 3-12.

My best recommendation - Seneca.

after that the next best climbing within 2 hours is Locust Grove down in Cumberland (there's also the Narrows down there too).

After that there is some stuff at Robs Knobs, but I wouldn't call that very beginner friendly.

There's also some stuff you could lead at Coopers, but most of it is not really worth. Most of it is rather short and hard/awkward to protect.

That's really about. Welcome to W. Pa climbing. There ain't much of it.

My $.02


viavelo


Sep 8, 2012, 3:44 AM
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Re: [stagg54] First Trad Lead Spots in Western PA [In reply to]
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thats kinda what ive found so far. all the local stuff (within two hours) is either sport, bouldering, or hard to protect. ill have to save my first trad lead for some easy seneca single pitch like r2d2 or scuttle.


DougMartin


Sep 10, 2012, 8:50 PM
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Re: [viavelo] First Trad Lead Spots in Western PA [In reply to]
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McConnel's Mill has some great places to work on anchor building. Placing gear and rope management is also doable at the Mill! The Mill is the closest place to me and is also the place I learned how to trad climb! Now a days it Seneca or the New as often as the weekend weather permits! Although your choices are good ones for a new leader, my suggestion is to stay well below your ability until you get comfortable out front. Once you get some confidence and Elvis leg and all the other symptoms of a new climber are gone then push the grade! Maybe I'll run into you at Mill sometime, and do a few mock leads!

Rack wise you have plenty for most routes at Seneca! Just make sure you have all the gear that goes along with the pro needed ( cordelletes, prussics, trad draws,etc.)
Have fun and be safe!


viavelo


Sep 10, 2012, 8:58 PM
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Re: [DougMartin] First Trad Lead Spots in Western PA [In reply to]
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Thanks so much for the tips! Ill have to check out the mill with my rack in hand.

I have 6 24" runners, 2 48" i made into draws and 5 8" quickdraws. i also have a cordelette. I should prob pick up some more runners and biners.

hit me up some time if you wanna go to the mill.


DougMartin


Sep 11, 2012, 1:55 AM
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I Will be there tomorrow mid afternoon till darkish! I climb with a bunch of fellas from Pittsburgh! Mainly ECP guys! They typically all show up Tuesday evenings!


acorneau


Sep 12, 2012, 1:11 AM
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Re: [DougMartin] First Trad Lead Spots in Western PA [In reply to]
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DougMartin wrote:
I Will be there tomorrow mid afternoon till darkish! I climb with a bunch of fellas from Pittsburgh! Mainly ECP guys! They typically all show up Tuesday evenings!


For some reason you seem really excited.

Laugh


DougMartin


Sep 12, 2012, 1:50 AM
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acorneau wrote:
DougMartin wrote:
I Will be there tomorrow mid afternoon till darkish! I climb with a bunch of fellas from Pittsburgh! Mainly ECP guys! They typically all show up Tuesday evenings!


For some reason you seem really excited.

Laugh

The prospect of someone new to ridicule and belittle combined with it being was my turn to bring the boob got me a little excited! Just don't tell him what he is in for. Tongue


viavelo


Sep 12, 2012, 2:54 PM
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Re: [DougMartin] First Trad Lead Spots in Western PA [In reply to]
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yins guys are scaring me!

id be up for coming out with yins some time. it would be nice to have a regular climbing day again. maybe we could carpool? pm me if youd be into this. i could prob swing next week.


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