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Quick Training Scheduling Question
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cleavoncox


Sep 10, 2012, 11:11 AM
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Quick Training Scheduling Question
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I want to start applying the training that I've learned in The Making of a 'Rockprodigy'. I have a quick question. Should you train before you climb for the day i.e. hang board right when I get to the gym, and then climb? Or should I do it after?

What do you guys do?


sycamore


Sep 10, 2012, 12:18 PM
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Re: [cleavoncox] Quick Training Scheduling Question [In reply to]
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If you're serious about the Rockprodigy routine, then you need to first decide what you're doing on a given day-- either "climbing at the gym" or "training"-- not both. It's a hard thing to do, but a vital step to breaking through plateaus. Ideally the gym should be where you train, the rock, where you climb, but that's not always realistic. What you can do, however, is to make sure that before you step in the gym you should know exactly what you're doing that day and not deviate from it. That's pretty much the whole point of the Rockprodigy regime- going from unstructured climbing to structured training, and reaping the subsequent benefits.

Tacking on some hangs or campus board reps to an unstructured climbing session is pretty much antithetical to the RP program--the whole point of which is to make training for climbing as quantifiable as possible. If you want to have a fun day with your bros, then do it. If you want to train, bring your headphones and your notebook and do the work. You can do both, but you're going to improve more quickly and lower your chance of injury if you keep them separate.


cleavoncox


Sep 10, 2012, 1:50 PM
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Re: [sycamore] Quick Training Scheduling Question [In reply to]
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This is exactly the answer I was looking for. Thanks!


pedro_sandchez


Sep 10, 2012, 2:24 PM
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Re: [cleavoncox] Quick Training Scheduling Question [In reply to]
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what sycamore said is spot on.

I'll add to that, that for me, the best way to follow the RP religiously was to get my own hangboard setup at home. I spent 75 dollars on a second hand metolius simulator and 40 lbs worth of plate weights.

By setting it up at home I found that I:
1) had no excuse to ever skip a hangboard session
2) didn't get distracted by my bro's at the gym "hey brah, have you tried this sick new purple and red striped v17"
3) could more easily to track my progress since I had my laptop right there in front of me.
4.) had no option to go and "just climb" for the evening, since I canceled my gym membership. This kept me resting on rest days, focused on training days, and injury free.

The downside is the lack of warm-ups. So I was just super careful to stretch a LOT and do easy pull-ups/hangs for ten minutes before starting a workout.

By the end of the HYP phase I was really in the zone and focused on training so when I had to hit the gym for the Max R and PE phases it was easy to just put in my ear buds and do my thing.

Also, since the gym here in Austin is like the most expensive gym in the country, that one month of not paying for a membership easily paid for my hangboard setup.

Hopefully by the time I hit my next Max R phase I'll have my home campus board finished and will only need the gym for PE.

So, my point is, stay focused on training not climbing. Climb on real rock on the weekends to stay psyched.
Training at home is easier to stay focused.


cleavoncox


Sep 10, 2012, 3:00 PM
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Re: [pedro_sandchez] Quick Training Scheduling Question [In reply to]
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Dude, you are spot on. # 2 happens to me all.the.time Tongue

And I was just looking at hangboards too.


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