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Matthew0718


Sep 10, 2012, 3:18 PM
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Lead test
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So, I plan on taking the lead test again at my local gym. First time I did it I was pretty jumpy, butterflys out the gazoo. The route they make you climb slopes outwards so its impossible to keep a center of balance like on some routes. I failed the test needless to say, I fell before the designated fall point. Maybe it was just the butterflys that made me fail or maybe because I was climbing that kind of route poorly. Any suggestions on how to climb a route that slopes out?


acorneau


Sep 10, 2012, 3:46 PM
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Re: [Matthew0718] Lead test [In reply to]
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Matthew0718 wrote:
So, I plan on taking the lead test again at my local gym. First time I did it I was pretty jumpy, butterflys out the gazoo. The route they make you climb slopes outwards so its impossible to keep a center of balance like on some routes. I failed the test needless to say, I fell before the designated fall point. Maybe it was just the butterflys that made me fail or maybe because I was climbing that kind of route poorly. Any suggestions on how to climb a route that slopes out?

Crazy

Don't try to climb it like a vertical (or slab) climb, i.e. "froggy style", balance hand to opposite foot. If you don't understand how that works get someone at the gym to show you.


mheyman


Sep 10, 2012, 9:01 PM
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Re: [Matthew0718] Lead test [In reply to]
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They have to give you the means to practice somehow or they'd have a very small clientele. Use that means until you are truly ready.

You might truly be ready now and just have been nervous. We can't tell online.


(This post was edited by mheyman on Sep 10, 2012, 9:02 PM)


r3dey3


Sep 11, 2012, 6:46 AM
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Re: [mheyman] Lead test [In reply to]
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mheyman wrote:
They have to give you the means to practice somehow or they'd have a very small clientele. Use that means until you are truly ready.

You might truly be ready now and just have been nervous. We can't tell online.

See if they will let you follow after somebody has already lead it. That way you can get a feel for the route and where you have to clip. When I'm helping people learn to lead it's the first thing I have them do.


Matthew0718


Sep 11, 2012, 7:18 AM
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Re: [r3dey3] Lead test [In reply to]
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I'm not sure my gym allows that, pretty strict rules there


teo916


Sep 11, 2012, 8:46 AM
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Re: [Matthew0718] Lead test [In reply to]
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Will they let you mock lead while on top rope?


Rudmin


Sep 11, 2012, 10:09 AM
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Re: [acorneau] Lead test [In reply to]
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acorneau wrote:
Matthew0718 wrote:
So, I plan on taking the lead test again at my local gym. First time I did it I was pretty jumpy, butterflys out the gazoo. The route they make you climb slopes outwards so its impossible to keep a center of balance like on some routes. I failed the test needless to say, I fell before the designated fall point. Maybe it was just the butterflys that made me fail or maybe because I was climbing that kind of route poorly. Any suggestions on how to climb a route that slopes out?

Crazy

Don't try to climb it like a vertical (or slab) climb, i.e. "froggy style", balance hand to opposite foot. If you don't understand how that works get someone at the gym to show you.

If you find yourself splayed out on an overhang, so your legs and arms are spread apart, you are probably doing it wrong, or incredibly strong.


lena_chita
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Sep 11, 2012, 10:41 AM
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Re: [Matthew0718] Lead test [In reply to]
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Are there any overhanging routes in the gym that you could climb on toprope/


JasonsDrivingForce


Sep 13, 2012, 12:29 PM
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Re: [lena_chita] Lead test [In reply to]
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lena_chita wrote:
Are there any overhanging routes in the gym that you could climb on toprope/

or Boulder them would work as well.


gblauer
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Sep 13, 2012, 3:50 PM
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Re: [Matthew0718] Lead test [In reply to]
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Here's a different point of view...

Why are you in such a hurry to take the lead test? Why don't you work on your climbing skills, strength and endurance so that when it's time to take the test you will pass with ease.

I have often observed that folks who take the test too early (i.e. before they have the requisite skills) tend to have some pretty close calls on those early days of leading (decking etc).

Slow down, enjoy the journey, watch others climb, work on your own technique. You will know when you are ready to pass the test.


Fred20


Sep 14, 2012, 12:18 PM
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Re: [Matthew0718] Lead test [In reply to]
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i like L_C and gbla's advice above

My gym is not tall at all and there are about 3 clips before you are on the ceiling (2 story building).

Sounds like your gym is like mine which means not only will it be difficult to pass the lead test, but once you do, the only route you can climb will run across the ceiling (like my gym)

I thought I was ready for lead, but decked. By God's grace I landed like a cat and walked away unscathed. It was my fault for getting tunnel vision and passing some clips, but it was also my belayer's instructor's fault for letting me get that far out.

In the end, no harm no foul. Had I been injured(easily a possibility) I would have been unhappy to say the least with the instructor.

If the route is just a tough route, be patient and climb until you can do it confidently, otherwise you are asking to take a fall.


DemolitionRed


Sep 15, 2012, 3:28 AM
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Re: [Fred20] Lead test [In reply to]
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We are not required to do lead tests over here so I had to look up the grade expected.
Not sure if this is uniform but SR put you on a 5.9 route. Now that's fine so long as you are already proficiently climbing a 5.9 with overhangs.
Once you are proficiently climbing 5.9s with overhangs on a top rope, practice removing one hand from the holds every time you reach a bolt and mimic putting a quick draw and clipping your rope in. When you can do this without getting muscle fatigue you are ready to take the test.

These are very short routes and shouldn't be taking much over a minute to complete which in itself makes it an anaerobic endurance challenge.
A lot of climbers run to the weights and fingerboards because they believe its lack of brute strength that is letting them down, when quite often its technique and cardiovascular fitness you need to be paying more attention to.


(This post was edited by DemolitionRed on Sep 15, 2012, 3:29 AM)


david7896


Sep 21, 2012, 5:19 PM
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Re: [Matthew0718] Lead test [In reply to]
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climb outside....where god tests your skills


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