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chasejohnson60
Sep 11, 2012, 2:00 PM
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im planning on taking a trip up to linville and ive got my eye on The Daddy. id like to get some info from some locals or people who have climbed there on what exactly i need to build a solid rack for that particular climb. i appreciate details, thanks.
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putputgolfer
Sep 11, 2012, 3:53 PM
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A full set of stoppers and cams up to 3in and you should be fine. Tricams are nice but not required like at other NC rocks. I like to carry hexes in some of the larger sizes and I think i used one or two for the belays here. Oh yes, gear belays so don't expect bolts. I remember the placements being pretty straight forward and not wandering too much.
I would also highly recommend the north ridge on table rock. There are actually several great moderates on Table: jim dandy, lunch route, etc.
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chasejohnson60
Sep 12, 2012, 1:20 PM
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thanks, what are the belay ledges like, from what ive read, they are pretty large but what im wondering is are we talkin 1 foot or 5 feet?
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colatownkid
Sep 12, 2012, 8:49 PM
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I would agree cams to 3" should work. A 4" piece is nice for the 1st pitch or the P1 belay, depending on how you do it, but you can certainly get by without. The ledges are quite spacious. You could pitch a tent atop P1, bivy atop P2, walk your dog atop P3. The only belay that's remotely "so-so" is P4. P5 belay is the top of the formation.
I highly recommend you avoid going to the right up the pile of bushes on P3 as it states in the guidebook. It's a bit of a bushwhack. Instead, take the 5.8 variation straight up to the next ledge. Relative to the last pitch of the climb (the crux), it's not much harder than 5.7. In other words, if you can climb the crux, you can climb those moves. Alternately, just take a few steps to the right side of the P2 belay ledge and scramble up some 5.4ish terrain, while still avoiding the bushes.
I also recommend avoiding the rim trail to walk out. I personally think it's much better to rappel down the Mummy Gully, walk across the Amphitheater descent gully, and climb out of the Amphitheater on "The Prow (5.4)".
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chasejohnson60
Sep 13, 2012, 2:39 PM
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thanks for the tips man. ive never been to linville and just want to get an understanding of what they've got there. ive done a few small multi-pitch climbs but nothing in the 4-5 pitch range, though i've wanted too for awhile. im planning to head out for a week... what else should i aim to go after? by the way i typically climb 5.10 to 5.9 on sport.
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colatownkid
Sep 13, 2012, 4:44 PM
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chasejohnson60 wrote: thanks for the tips man. ive never been to linville and just want to get an understanding of what they've got there. ive done a few small multi-pitch climbs but nothing in the 4-5 pitch range, though i've wanted too for awhile. im planning to head out for a week... what else should i aim to go after? by the way i typically climb 5.10 to 5.9 on sport.
Provided that you've led trad before, then "The Mummy (5.5)" and "The Prow (5.4)," both in the Amphitheater are great climbs. If you haven't ever led trad before, I wouldn't recommend starting in the Amphitheater as the hike, approach, and lack of fixed anchors are fairly committing.
Also nearby and great climbing is Table Rock. Check out climbs on the East Face, many of which have bolts to some degree. Good moderates include "Jim Dandy (5.6)," "My Route (5.6)," the "Cave Route (5.4)," and the "North Ridge (5.5)." Most of these routes have fixed anchors and bailing out is relatively straightforward on the East face, either by walk-off or rappel. Let me know if you have more specific questions.
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chasejohnson60
Sep 13, 2012, 5:40 PM
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thanks for the advice, is there any sort of special pro needed to climb those that you listed?
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colatownkid
Sep 13, 2012, 5:45 PM
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chasejohnson60 wrote: thanks for the advice, is there any sort of special pro needed to climb those that you listed?
No. On any of the climbs I mentioned on Table Rock that are bolted, they can be led relatively safely with just a set of quickdraws (though they are by no means "sport bolted"). You can easily do them with a set of draws/slings and a single set of cams from TCUs to about 2-3", depending on the particular climb. (For example, on the "Cave Route" it's nice to have more on the larger end (1-3"), while on "Jim Dandy," the biggest piece you need is probably 0.75" or so.)
For any climbs without bolted protection, a set of nuts, and cams to 3" should be sufficient. I personally double up on some of my cams, but you could use tricams and/or hexes in place of a second set of cams. It just depends on your gear and comfort level.
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thatguyat99
Sep 19, 2012, 4:20 AM
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Also...just a heads up about Linville.
It is an awesome place to climb. The first time you go there though can be a little tricky in finding things. If you can, go with someone that has been there before especially to find the Amphitheater.
It is easy to end up down the wrong gully and find yourself doing a lot of bushwhacking. If you like adventure this is a good place for it.
But if you don't have someone with experience there, just spend a day exploring. I think it helps with finding things and finding your way back...Enjoy.
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