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cleavoncox
Sep 14, 2012, 1:06 AM
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Registered: Aug 10, 2012
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So I was reading this blog post: http://www.powercompanyclimbing.com/2012/07/how-to-climb-harder-than-other-newbs.html
What does the poster mean by this statement?
"2. 3 or 4 attempts at a route, or 45-60 minutes on boulders that are a few letter grades above my onsight level. These routes or problems should take 5 or 6 attempts max to send. Once you've sent, be sure to repeat them regularly. Getting better isn't a fluke... so don't be scared to ruin the "feeling" of sending something hard for you. Eventually it will be a warm up. "
Do they mean that If I'm able to send V3 with no issues, I should only spend 5-6 attempts on a V4? And if I cant do it within that, I should go back to 3s?
Thanks for the help.
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6pacfershur
Sep 14, 2012, 2:23 AM
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Registered: Jun 23, 2010
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its meaningless......pay no attention to interweb blogs, go climb
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shotwell
Sep 14, 2012, 6:11 AM
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Registered: Jan 6, 2009
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cleavoncox wrote: So I was reading this blog post: http://www.powercompanyclimbing.com/2012/07/how-to-climb-harder-than-other-newbs.html What does the poster mean by this statement? "2. 3 or 4 attempts at a route, or 45-60 minutes on boulders that are a few letter grades above my onsight level. These routes or problems should take 5 or 6 attempts max to send. Once you've sent, be sure to repeat them regularly. Getting better isn't a fluke... so don't be scared to ruin the "feeling" of sending something hard for you. Eventually it will be a warm up. " Do they mean that If I'm able to send V3 with no issues, I should only spend 5-6 attempts on a V4? And if I cant do it within that, I should go back to 3s? Thanks for the help.
He means that if you are sending v3 you should give each individual v4 or v5 you want to work 5 or 6 tries before moving on. Don't stick around and waste time past this, but move on to another problem that challenges you as well. You can try the problems you didn't complete in another session, just don't become obsessed.
The purpose of this is to build a broad base of skill and learn a bunch of new moves. Sticking around on one problem and dialing it in can eventually be useful, but Kris' approach should be very effective in the grade range you're talking about.
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J.Haze
Sep 14, 2012, 11:57 AM
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Registered: Aug 3, 2012
Posts: 15
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6pacfershur wrote: its meaningless......pay no attention to interweb blogs, go climb
Said from the guy reading internet forums, which are probably more meaningless than blogs by proficient climbers.
shotwell sums it up nicely, the point is to not waste your training time on one problem when you could be getting more out of other problems/routes. Personally I follow this and it does make a difference, most of the time I get the problem first thing the next session.
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