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climbs4fun
Moderator
Sep 15, 2012, 10:23 PM
Post #93501 of 105309
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climbs4fun wrote: climbs4fun wrote: caughtinside wrote: which is ironic because I'm sitting here doing nothing. Shouldn't have stayed up so late drinking beers and playing video gamesBLL and playing gheymcube. fixied PTFTW?
Doh! Too soon!
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climbingtrash
Sep 16, 2012, 5:15 PM
Post #93502 of 105309
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Registered: Jan 19, 2006
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dr_feelgood wrote: [ice tawk] If all goes according to plan, I should be getting firsties on some ice on sunday. Not that anyone carez except the monkeys and mo....
ewe are korect! Perfikt desert temps are here now.
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darkside
Sep 17, 2012, 6:04 AM
Post #93503 of 105309
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Registered: Sep 15, 2001
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granite_grrl wrote: I would carez more if it wasn't prime rock climbing time. My ice season won't be as good this year if Nathan is away, but what can you do.
Out of the loop enquiring minds want to know.
Hang on... psychic vision!! I see ice in my future within a few weeks, and I see a better ice season for you should you make an ice trip out west. How much more do I have to hound you?
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granite_grrl
Sep 17, 2012, 1:06 PM
Post #93504 of 105309
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Registered: Oct 25, 2002
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darkside wrote: granite_grrl wrote: I would carez more if it wasn't prime rock climbing time. My ice season won't be as good this year if Nathan is away, but what can you do. Isn't it you who's away from Nate? Or are you not still up in the Bruce or Nate not in St.Kitts? Out of the loop enquiring minds want to know. Hang on... psychic vision!! I see ice in my future within a few weeks, and I see a better ice season for you should you make an ice trip out west. How much more do I have to hound you?
Hound Nathan. Between Christmas and Ouray I'm already using over half my vacation time for 2013. I personally can't afford another winter trip.
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camhead
Sep 17, 2012, 2:03 PM
Post #93505 of 105309
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Registered: Sep 10, 2001
Posts: 20939
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Güd times at the NRG. No rain, great conditions, fun people.
Trip started off rough, with team clamhat deciding that it would be awesome to grab some fried chicken (RACIST!) from this food cart in town for the drive down to WV. Mine was greasy, but all right. Dribble's was pink in the middle. Next morning in WV, after having some more for breakfast, dribble got really sick really quick.
We bumbled out to Beauty Mtn. Crowded there, since the AAC was having a shindig with a bunch of clinics. There was a literal infestation of hammocks hanging all over, like tent caterpillar swarms of noob coccoons. Managed to flash a semi-runout 11c face that was really fun, especially, since I'm not very good at face tard. Dribble wound up going back early to sleep off the food poisoning.
Went to a cool slideshow on Sat night. Local hardman Pat Goodman had just driven his old van up to the Yukon and done a rad first ascent on Vampire Spire, and did a great presentation of it.
Sunday, we headed to the sekrit radness of S.Nut. I was still trashed from the day before, and climbed like shit. Got to Luv Nothing, this super steep hands and ringlocks splitter that I've been wanting to send, and opted to rap down it first to clean it, since the spiders were so bad. Then dribble TR-d it first, with very high level aiding and pendulum techniques to embark on a battle royale with even more spiders.
It was fucking horrifying; dozens of them raining down on me, from silver dollar-sized catfaces to tiny little pissed off paratroopers. The route is now clean, and I'll have to go back and lead it; only TR'd it yesterday. Drove back way too late, got in at 1am, and now I'm trying to figure out how to not be a zombie in today's lectures.
that is awl.
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granite_grrl
Sep 17, 2012, 3:25 PM
Post #93506 of 105309
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Registered: Oct 25, 2002
Posts: 15084
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Weekend report.
I'm climbing like shit.
That is awl.
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snoopy138
Sep 17, 2012, 4:50 PM
Post #93507 of 105309
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Registered: Jul 7, 2004
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dr_feelgood wrote: [ice tawk] If all goes according to plan, I should be getting firsties on some ice on sunday. Not that anyone carez except the monkeys and mo....
it's way too early for ice tawk.
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drivel
Sep 17, 2012, 4:51 PM
Post #93508 of 105309
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Registered: Apr 22, 2010
Posts: 2459
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camhead wrote: Güd times at the NRG. No rain, great conditions, fun people. Trip started off rough, with team clamhat deciding that it would be awesome to grab some fried chicken (RACIST!) from this food cart in town for the drive down to WV. Mine was greasy, but all right. Dribble's was pink in the middle. Next morning in WV, after having some more for breakfast, dribble got really sick really quick. We bumbled out to Beauty Mtn. Crowded there, since the AAC was having a shindig with a bunch of clinics. There was a literal infestation of hammocks hanging all over, like tent caterpillar swarms of noob coccoons. Managed to flash a semi-runout 11c face that was really fun, especially, since I'm not very good at face tard. Dribble wound up going back early to sleep off the food poisoning. Went to a cool slideshow on Sat night. Local hardman Pat Goodman had just driven his old van up to the Yukon and done a rad first ascent on Vampire Spire, and did a great presentation of it. Sunday, we headed to the sekrit radness of S.Nut. I was still trashed from the day before, and climbed like shit. Got to Luv Nothing, this super steep hands and ringlocks splitter that I've been wanting to send, and opted to rap down it first to clean it, since the spiders were so bad. Then dribble TR-d it first, with very high level aiding and pendulum techniques to embark on a battle royale with even more spiders. It was fucking horrifying; dozens of them raining down on me, from silver dollar-sized catfaces to tiny little pissed off paratroopers. The route is now clean, and I'll have to go back and lead it; only TR'd it yesterday. Drove back way too late, got in at 1am, and now I'm trying to figure out how to not be a zombie in today's lectures. that is awl.
three. THREE! ping-pong ball sized sheolobs that went SPAT as they hit the ground.
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snoopy138
Sep 17, 2012, 4:52 PM
Post #93509 of 105309
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Registered: Jul 7, 2004
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caughtinside wrote: which is ironic because I'm sitting here doing nothing. Shouldn't have stayed up so late drinking beers and playing video games.
drove up the eastside friday night, rolled into a campsite at june lake ~12:15. was asleep ~12:30.
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snoopy138
Sep 17, 2012, 4:59 PM
Post #93510 of 105309
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got up at 5 AM, ate a bit, drove over Tioga to Cathedral Lakes parking. put together minimal rack, tried not to freeze (I forgot to pack a jacket of any sort for the trip) and headed off to Matthes around 7:15.
Simul'd the whole thing with about 50 ft. of rope between us, except for the downclimb off the south summit and one pitch up the north summit. were at the south summit around 2, ate lunch, and then had to wait for a pair of dickbags to head up the north summit. they were climbing with twin ropes, the follower was talking about getting back into it, and kept falling off the 5.7 crux. oh, and they wasted 20 minutes dicking around on the summit, while talking about how they were going to rappel first. dickbags.
got back to the car around 7, lots of sites open in the meadows. had 2 beers and passed out ~9:30.
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granite_grrl
Sep 17, 2012, 5:04 PM
Post #93511 of 105309
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Registered: Oct 25, 2002
Posts: 15084
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drivel wrote: camhead wrote: Güd times at the NRG. No rain, great conditions, fun people. Trip started off rough, with team clamhat deciding that it would be awesome to grab some fried chicken (RACIST!) from this food cart in town for the drive down to WV. Mine was greasy, but all right. Dribble's was pink in the middle. Next morning in WV, after having some more for breakfast, dribble got really sick really quick. We bumbled out to Beauty Mtn. Crowded there, since the AAC was having a shindig with a bunch of clinics. There was a literal infestation of hammocks hanging all over, like tent caterpillar swarms of noob coccoons. Managed to flash a semi-runout 11c face that was really fun, especially, since I'm not very good at face tard. Dribble wound up going back early to sleep off the food poisoning. Went to a cool slideshow on Sat night. Local hardman Pat Goodman had just driven his old van up to the Yukon and done a rad first ascent on Vampire Spire, and did a great presentation of it. Sunday, we headed to the sekrit radness of S.Nut. I was still trashed from the day before, and climbed like shit. Got to Luv Nothing, this super steep hands and ringlocks splitter that I've been wanting to send, and opted to rap down it first to clean it, since the spiders were so bad. Then dribble TR-d it first, with very high level aiding and pendulum techniques to embark on a battle royale with even more spiders. It was fucking horrifying; dozens of them raining down on me, from silver dollar-sized catfaces to tiny little pissed off paratroopers. The route is now clean, and I'll have to go back and lead it; only TR'd it yesterday. Drove back way too late, got in at 1am, and now I'm trying to figure out how to not be a zombie in today's lectures. that is awl. three. THREE! ping-pong ball sized sheolobs that went SPAT as they hit the ground.
*barf*
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snoopy138
Sep 17, 2012, 5:05 PM
Post #93512 of 105309
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Registered: Jul 7, 2004
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woke up late after about 11 hours of sleep, dragged our shit together, went over to Lamb Dome. On the Lamb is pretty damn cool. On pitch 3 (the first pitch along the traverse), got passed by a soloist who was nice enough to point out the bolted anchors that sit 7' below the route, which I'd already passed. Since the brit had no idea what I was up to at that point (traverses around the corner), I had to do the downclimb to the anchors with ~30 ft. of slack out.
the brit attempted to lead p4, got to the crux, and decided he was too tired and couldn't convince himself to head out into the 40 ft. of steeper traversing with minimal feet (it's 5.9, the hands are still good the whole way). he came back to the belay and the party behind us climbed through. I led it, placing cams every 6 ft. through the whole crux section. my calves were pretty pumped. the brit followed without incident, but with plenty of whining. finished rowt and drove home.
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caughtinside
Sep 17, 2012, 8:37 PM
Post #93513 of 105309
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Registered: Jan 8, 2003
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snoopy138 wrote: got up at 5 AM, ate a bit, drove over Tioga to Cathedral Lakes parking. put together minimal rack, tried not to freeze (I forgot to pack a jacket of any sort for the trip) and headed off to Matthes around 7:15. Simul'd the whole thing with about 50 ft. of rope between us, except for the downclimb off the south summit and one pitch up the north summit. were at the south summit around 2, ate lunch, and then had to wait for a pair of dickbags to head up the north summit. they were climbing with twin ropes, the follower was talking about getting back into it, and kept falling off the 5.7 crux. oh, and they wasted 20 minutes dicking around on the summit, while talking about how they were going to rappel first. dickbags. got back to the car around 7, lots of sites open in the meadows. had 2 beers and passed out ~9:30.
dude, you finished the traverse right? Rapping off matthes is a crime!
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snoopy138
Sep 17, 2012, 9:02 PM
Post #93514 of 105309
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Registered: Jul 7, 2004
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caughtinside wrote: snoopy138 wrote: got up at 5 AM, ate a bit, drove over Tioga to Cathedral Lakes parking. put together minimal rack, tried not to freeze (I forgot to pack a jacket of any sort for the trip) and headed off to Matthes around 7:15. Simul'd the whole thing with about 50 ft. of rope between us, except for the downclimb off the south summit and one pitch up the north summit. were at the south summit around 2, ate lunch, and then had to wait for a pair of dickbags to head up the north summit. they were climbing with twin ropes, the follower was talking about getting back into it, and kept falling off the 5.7 crux. oh, and they wasted 20 minutes dicking around on the summit, while talking about how they were going to rappel first. dickbags. got back to the car around 7, lots of sites open in the meadows. had 2 beers and passed out ~9:30. dude, you finished the traverse right? Rapping off matthes is a crime!
did not finish traverse. were held up by the dickbags in getting to the north summit, and hadn't moved superfast to begin with. might go back at some point and try it again, would want to get there earlier and be working on a bit more sleep.
looking forward to sport climbing on 8 hours sleep for 2 weeks in kentucky.
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snoopy138
Sep 17, 2012, 9:05 PM
Post #93515 of 105309
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caughtinside wrote: snoopy138 wrote: got up at 5 AM, ate a bit, drove over Tioga to Cathedral Lakes parking. put together minimal rack, tried not to freeze (I forgot to pack a jacket of any sort for the trip) and headed off to Matthes around 7:15. Simul'd the whole thing with about 50 ft. of rope between us, except for the downclimb off the south summit and one pitch up the north summit. were at the south summit around 2, ate lunch, and then had to wait for a pair of dickbags to head up the north summit. they were climbing with twin ropes, the follower was talking about getting back into it, and kept falling off the 5.7 crux. oh, and they wasted 20 minutes dicking around on the summit, while talking about how they were going to rappel first. dickbags. got back to the car around 7, lots of sites open in the meadows. had 2 beers and passed out ~9:30. dude, you finished the traverse right? Rapping off matthes is a crime!
counted at least 9 parties on the route on saturday, 2 did the whole thing I think. there was a party of 3 that started up before us, and I think was pitching out the whole thing, with the 2 followers climbing separately. when we got down to the talus, we still hadn't seen them show up to either summit.
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camhead
Sep 17, 2012, 9:10 PM
Post #93516 of 105309
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Registered: Sep 10, 2001
Posts: 20939
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there's a meme that's been going around lately. I decided to do a variation of it.
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dr_feelgood
Sep 17, 2012, 9:20 PM
Post #93517 of 105309
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Registered: Apr 6, 2004
Posts: 26060
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granite_grrl wrote: dr_feelgood wrote: [ice tawk] If all goes according to plan, I should be getting firsties on some ice on sunday. Not that anyone carez except the monkeys and mo.... I would carez more if it wasn't prime rock climbing time. My ice season won't be as good this year if Nathan is away, but what can you do.
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dr_feelgood
Sep 17, 2012, 9:23 PM
Post #93518 of 105309
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Registered: Apr 6, 2004
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dr_feelgood wrote: granite_grrl wrote: dr_feelgood wrote: [ice tawk] If all goes according to plan, I should be getting firsties on some ice on sunday. Not that anyone carez except the monkeys and mo.... I would carez more if it wasn't prime rock climbing time. My ice season won't be as good this year if Nathan is away, but what can you do. Oh, there was some rock involved. And an extra bivi that we didn't expect. I'll get the full story together sometime when I am not fucking zonked.
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caughtinside
Sep 17, 2012, 10:01 PM
Post #93519 of 105309
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snoopy138 wrote: caughtinside wrote: snoopy138 wrote: got up at 5 AM, ate a bit, drove over Tioga to Cathedral Lakes parking. put together minimal rack, tried not to freeze (I forgot to pack a jacket of any sort for the trip) and headed off to Matthes around 7:15. Simul'd the whole thing with about 50 ft. of rope between us, except for the downclimb off the south summit and one pitch up the north summit. were at the south summit around 2, ate lunch, and then had to wait for a pair of dickbags to head up the north summit. they were climbing with twin ropes, the follower was talking about getting back into it, and kept falling off the 5.7 crux. oh, and they wasted 20 minutes dicking around on the summit, while talking about how they were going to rappel first. dickbags. got back to the car around 7, lots of sites open in the meadows. had 2 beers and passed out ~9:30. dude, you finished the traverse right? Rapping off matthes is a crime! counted at least 9 parties on the route on saturday, 2 did the whole thing I think. there was a party of 3 that started up before us, and I think was pitching out the whole thing, with the 2 followers climbing separately. when we got down to the talus, we still hadn't seen them show up to either summit.
That's a facepalm.
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snoopy138
Sep 17, 2012, 10:28 PM
Post #93520 of 105309
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Registered: Jul 7, 2004
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caughtinside wrote: snoopy138 wrote: caughtinside wrote: snoopy138 wrote: got up at 5 AM, ate a bit, drove over Tioga to Cathedral Lakes parking. put together minimal rack, tried not to freeze (I forgot to pack a jacket of any sort for the trip) and headed off to Matthes around 7:15. Simul'd the whole thing with about 50 ft. of rope between us, except for the downclimb off the south summit and one pitch up the north summit. were at the south summit around 2, ate lunch, and then had to wait for a pair of dickbags to head up the north summit. they were climbing with twin ropes, the follower was talking about getting back into it, and kept falling off the 5.7 crux. oh, and they wasted 20 minutes dicking around on the summit, while talking about how they were going to rappel first. dickbags. got back to the car around 7, lots of sites open in the meadows. had 2 beers and passed out ~9:30. dude, you finished the traverse right? Rapping off matthes is a crime! counted at least 9 parties on the route on saturday, 2 did the whole thing I think. there was a party of 3 that started up before us, and I think was pitching out the whole thing, with the 2 followers climbing separately. when we got down to the talus, we still hadn't seen them show up to either summit. That's a facepalm.
maybe they carried bivy gear. who knows.
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dr_feelgood
Sep 17, 2012, 10:37 PM
Post #93521 of 105309
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Registered: Apr 6, 2004
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Just worked some frontier medicine on the blister I got saturday morning. The damn thing subdivided, and we're out of rubbing alcohol... Fortunately, grain alcohol does the trick.
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dr_feelgood
Sep 17, 2012, 10:41 PM
Post #93522 of 105309
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caughtinside wrote: snoopy138 wrote: caughtinside wrote: snoopy138 wrote: got up at 5 AM, ate a bit, drove over Tioga to Cathedral Lakes parking. put together minimal rack, tried not to freeze (I forgot to pack a jacket of any sort for the trip) and headed off to Matthes around 7:15. Simul'd the whole thing with about 50 ft. of rope between us, except for the downclimb off the south summit and one pitch up the north summit. were at the south summit around 2, ate lunch, and then had to wait for a pair of dickbags to head up the north summit. they were climbing with twin ropes, the follower was talking about getting back into it, and kept falling off the 5.7 crux. oh, and they wasted 20 minutes dicking around on the summit, while talking about how they were going to rappel first. dickbags. got back to the car around 7, lots of sites open in the meadows. had 2 beers and passed out ~9:30. dude, you finished the traverse right? Rapping off matthes is a crime! counted at least 9 parties on the route on saturday, 2 did the whole thing I think. there was a party of 3 that started up before us, and I think was pitching out the whole thing, with the 2 followers climbing separately. when we got down to the talus, we still hadn't seen them show up to either summit. That's a facepalm.
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snoopy138
Sep 18, 2012, 12:34 AM
Post #93523 of 105309
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Registered: Jul 7, 2004
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dr_feelgood wrote: caughtinside wrote: snoopy138 wrote: caughtinside wrote: snoopy138 wrote: got up at 5 AM, ate a bit, drove over Tioga to Cathedral Lakes parking. put together minimal rack, tried not to freeze (I forgot to pack a jacket of any sort for the trip) and headed off to Matthes around 7:15. Simul'd the whole thing with about 50 ft. of rope between us, except for the downclimb off the south summit and one pitch up the north summit. were at the south summit around 2, ate lunch, and then had to wait for a pair of dickbags to head up the north summit. they were climbing with twin ropes, the follower was talking about getting back into it, and kept falling off the 5.7 crux. oh, and they wasted 20 minutes dicking around on the summit, while talking about how they were going to rappel first. dickbags. got back to the car around 7, lots of sites open in the meadows. had 2 beers and passed out ~9:30. dude, you finished the traverse right? Rapping off matthes is a crime! counted at least 9 parties on the route on saturday, 2 did the whole thing I think. there was a party of 3 that started up before us, and I think was pitching out the whole thing, with the 2 followers climbing separately. when we got down to the talus, we still hadn't seen them show up to either summit. That's a facepalm. durp.
if you only knew. long stretches of class 3 and below.
the brit and I were simuling, but for a lot of it there was no pro, our plan was to jump the other way off the ridge if somebody fell. seemed easier than roping and unroping over and over.
another highlight ... the dickbags with the twin ropes broke the 115 foot pitch to the north summit into 2 pitches because you can't get down to the starting ledge with a 60m rope. they asked if we wanted to pass, then told us we couldn't.
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caughtinside
Sep 18, 2012, 4:28 AM
Post #93524 of 105309
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snoopy138 wrote: dr_feelgood wrote: caughtinside wrote: snoopy138 wrote: caughtinside wrote: snoopy138 wrote: got up at 5 AM, ate a bit, drove over Tioga to Cathedral Lakes parking. put together minimal rack, tried not to freeze (I forgot to pack a jacket of any sort for the trip) and headed off to Matthes around 7:15. Simul'd the whole thing with about 50 ft. of rope between us, except for the downclimb off the south summit and one pitch up the north summit. were at the south summit around 2, ate lunch, and then had to wait for a pair of dickbags to head up the north summit. they were climbing with twin ropes, the follower was talking about getting back into it, and kept falling off the 5.7 crux. oh, and they wasted 20 minutes dicking around on the summit, while talking about how they were going to rappel first. dickbags. got back to the car around 7, lots of sites open in the meadows. had 2 beers and passed out ~9:30. dude, you finished the traverse right? Rapping off matthes is a crime! counted at least 9 parties on the route on saturday, 2 did the whole thing I think. there was a party of 3 that started up before us, and I think was pitching out the whole thing, with the 2 followers climbing separately. when we got down to the talus, we still hadn't seen them show up to either summit. That's a facepalm. durp. if you only knew. long stretches of class 3 and below. the brit and I were simuling, but for a lot of it there was no pro, our plan was to jump the other way off the ridge if somebody fell. seemed easier than roping and unroping over and over. another highlight ... the dickbags with the twin ropes broke the 115 foot pitch to the north summit into 2 pitches because you can't get down to the starting ledge with a 60m rope. they asked if we wanted to pass, then told us we couldn't.
I'ts 30 feet of 5.7 before it eases back to like 5.5.
That is some super week shit!
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camhead
Sep 18, 2012, 4:05 PM
Post #93525 of 105309
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biner and the lumber jack dropped in last night. We drank teh beers, and talked about boring married people stuff (gardening and pets) until like 2am. Good times. Was grate to finally meet the elusive Brian. Burley and Nugget did not join us.
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