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Sharp edges on old belay device -- file down?
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hyongx


Sep 23, 2012, 12:48 PM
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Sharp edges on old belay device -- file down?
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So I have an ATC guide that I have been using for probably six years or so. However, a partner recently pointed out to me that the rear edge of the rope slot has worn to the extent that a pretty sharp edge has developed.
Obviously, this is not something that just popped up - i've been using the device regularly and this was just now brought to my attention.
Is this something to be concerned about - i.e. will it cause additional sheath wear on my rope?
For those of you who have had this issue before - can I file down the sharp edge, or would you recommend just retiring the device? How would one file the edge down - a dremel tool/sander or something?

Thanks...


billl7


Sep 23, 2012, 6:36 PM
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Re: [hyongx] Sharp edges on old belay device -- file down? [In reply to]
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hyongx wrote:
... a partner recently pointed out to me that the rear edge of the rope slot has worn to the extent that a pretty sharp edge has developed.
Running a loaded rope over a sharp edge is a bad idea. If it cuts the rope, it wouldn't be the first time that over-worn gear has done so leading to a serious fall. Thank your partner for pointing it out a get a new one.

Bill L


billcoe_


Sep 23, 2012, 7:56 PM
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Re: [hyongx] Sharp edges on old belay device -- file down? [In reply to]
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hyongx wrote:
So I have an ATC guide that I have been using for probably six years or so. However, a partner recently pointed out to me that the rear edge of the rope slot has worn to the extent that a pretty sharp edge has developed.
Obviously, this is not something that just popped up - i've been using the device regularly and this was just now brought to my attention.
Is this something to be concerned about - i.e. will it cause additional sheath wear on my rope?
For those of you who have had this issue before - can I file down the sharp edge, or would you recommend just retiring the device? How would one file the edge down - a dremel tool/sander or something?

Thanks...
It should be left sharp so that the rest of us, the survivors, can all learn at what point failure occurs. Please keep a log with pictures which we can examine after your passing.

Oh, BTW, in response to your question if I would be concerned: No, I'm not concerned with your shoddy gear at all. Nor would I be concerned with your death.
And of course you can take a file to it to smooth it, I say that without even knowing what brand you have. Or leave it as is, 6 years old, shouldn't it last forever?

Check this incredible stuff.

2 pictures of a round rat tail file:




and of a smaller version, the round Needle file.



For more Rat Tail (round) file info:
http://www.merriam-webster.com/...nary/rat-tail%20file

By now you must be thinking: "HOLY CRAP THAT'S AMAZING!!!!!! WHERE CAN I GET ME ONE OR MORE OF THEM BADBOYZ?!!!! HOLY CRAP!!!! Your amazement is understandable. You can get them at any hardware store, Lowes or Home Depot. Any one. Amazing, I know.


Not only that, but you can also buy an entirely new device as well! I can list stores which might have them for sale if you need. Like a BD ATC Guide. Good stuff. You need a picture of that too? Here ya go:



REI has them, not sure where you live, but you can mail order one I'm sure.


(This post was edited by billcoe_ on Sep 23, 2012, 7:59 PM)


hyongx


Sep 23, 2012, 9:26 PM
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Re: [billcoe_] Sharp edges on old belay device -- file down? [In reply to]
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billcoe_ wrote:
It should be left sharp so that the rest of us, the survivors, can all learn at what point failure occurs. Please keep a log with pictures which we can examine after your passing.

Haha... thanks for your great post, I appreciate the effort.

FWIW, perhaps I have listened to the voice of reason - I ordered a new ATC guide. Although I went with the older model, not the one with the unnecessary holes in the walls. that's crazy. I don't want three extra holes in my belay device just to save 1.4 grams.


socalclimber


Sep 24, 2012, 3:48 AM
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Re: [hyongx] Sharp edges on old belay device -- file down? [In reply to]
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Smart move. Ask yourself the ultimate question:

Is my life worth $15+?

Be safe.


billcoe_


Sep 26, 2012, 9:40 AM
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Re: [hyongx] Sharp edges on old belay device -- file down? [In reply to]
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hyongx wrote:
Haha... thanks for your great post, I appreciate the effort.

FWIW, perhaps I have listened to the voice of reason - I ordered a new ATC guide. Although I went with the older model, not the one with the unnecessary holes in the walls. that's crazy. I don't want three extra holes in my belay device just to save 1.4 grams.

Good for you man! Hard to have too much gear:-) I have both, and functionally they are similar but I like the lightweight one better, not just cause I'm old and a pussy.....well, maybe that is it. Anything I can do to shave a gram here or there so as to leave my beer gut in place gets my support. Of course, if I'm toproping I only have to waddle a short way and don't mind. Laugh

BTW, it's hard to have just one device. DMM has a full on stainless steel model which doesn't supply quite as much friction, but coupled with a steel biner and running thorough steel biners on top, will keep the black off your rope if you are doing a lot of toproping.


billcoe_


Oct 1, 2012, 6:41 AM
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Re: [billcoe_] Sharp edges on old belay device -- file down? [In reply to]
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http://www.rockclimbing.com/..._latest_reply;so=ASC

Head down to the Injuries and accident thread and read some of them. Like the link above. 1st post of the thread, rope breaks on a sharp spot of a worn biner. Climber decks at the Red River Gorge. Biner that chopped the rope photo below.

Last post same thread page 6: same thing happens in Switzerland (2 years after the first post) ends in a fatality.

Shit happens. But it's often voluntary that shit will happen to YOU. (or ME) .


yodadave


Oct 1, 2012, 8:12 AM
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Re: [billcoe_] Sharp edges on old belay device -- file down? [In reply to]
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hey billcoe,
I think DMM quit making that one :(
Edelrid make something called the Jul that has a SS insert

I work on ropes courses and its amazing how quickly aluminum can be worn down. Steel all the way for toproping applications!

OP good choice on retiring the gear


USnavy


Oct 1, 2012, 10:44 AM
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Re: [] Sharp edges on old belay device -- file down? [In reply to]
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I agree with everyone else. Throw the belay device away and get a new one. Sharp edges are very dangerous to a rope.


billcoe_


Oct 1, 2012, 4:03 PM
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Re: [yodadave] Sharp edges on old belay device -- file down? [In reply to]
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yodadave wrote:
hey billcoe,
I think DMM quit making that one :(
Edelrid make something called the Jul that has a SS insert

I work on ropes courses and its amazing how quickly aluminum can be worn down. Steel all the way for toproping applications!

OP good choice on retiring the gear

Wow, I didn't know they quit making them. I have 2 of them. The Edelrid Mega Jul will be coming out soon for double ropes, thanks for that link Navy.

For sandstone areas, Stainless or steel is nice. I was working a new cliff near home here (the creek below is called sandstone creek, but it's not true sandstone, more like 60 grit garnet sand in an igneous/Breccia matrix) and only one series of 400' long raps on a damp + dirty day I had to retire (from lead climbing or rapping) one of my brand new DMM Sentinels (the little HMS style) locking carabiners. It wasn't as grooved as the one upthread, but had significant double grooves worn from the double rope rappel. Significant. Went from brand new to semi-retired. I have it attached to my drill cord now....pfft, aluminum.


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