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Wade308


Sep 20, 2012, 9:26 AM
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Free climbing question
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Hi, super n00b here, sorry.

I've been watching a lot of climbing videos where guys are going for free climbing 1st ascents, many of them multi-pitch.

My question is: If you fall on a free climbing, do you have to go back to the beginning and start all over for it to be a legitimate send?

If so, does the same apply for multi-pitch, or would you just have to do that failed pitch again?

Sorry if this is a dumb question, but I didn't see it addressed anywhere and I'm really curious.


wivanoff


Sep 20, 2012, 10:34 AM
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Re: [Wade308] Free climbing question [In reply to]
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Wade308 wrote:
My question is: If you fall on a free climbing, do you have to go back to the beginning and start all over for it to be a legitimate send?
IMO, yes.

Wade308 wrote:
If so, does the same apply for multi-pitch, or would you just have to do that failed pitch again?
IMO, restart the failed pitch.

In both cases, some people will untie, pull down their rope and start over.
Once you've fallen, you've rested on your gear. And that's aid, not free.


yanqui


Sep 20, 2012, 10:51 AM
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Re: [Wade308] Free climbing question [In reply to]
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For long, difficult multi-pitch climbs it is generally accepted that the route has been free climbed if each pitch is separately free climbed without falls and not necessarily the whole route from top to bottom (e.g. Lynn Hill's "Free Nose"). However I think most would agree the best possible style would be a ground to top onsight. Hope that helps


(This post was edited by yanqui on Sep 20, 2012, 10:52 AM)


madam


Sep 25, 2012, 11:05 PM
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Re: [wivanoff] Free climbing question [In reply to]
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Hi,

try to check:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Glossary_of_climbing_terms

search for on-sight, redpoint, pinkpoint, flash

another "style" is "alles frei" which I dont know english word for. Basically this is climbing the route without taking a fall and with having some rest(s) on the rope.

adam


marc801


Sep 26, 2012, 6:52 AM
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Re: [madam] Free climbing question [In reply to]
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madam wrote:
another "style" is "alles frei" which I dont know english word for. Basically this is climbing the route without taking a fall and with having some rest(s) on the rope.
That is not free climbing. Any rests on gear or the rope constitutes aid.


madam


Sep 26, 2012, 6:56 AM
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Re: [marc801] Free climbing question [In reply to]
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well, this was just to complete the answer of the most used styles...


petsfed


Sep 26, 2012, 7:38 AM
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Re: [madam] Free climbing question [In reply to]
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madam wrote:
Hi,

try to check:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Glossary_of_climbing_terms

search for on-sight, redpoint, pinkpoint, flash

another "style" is "alles frei" which I dont know english word for. Basically this is climbing the route without taking a fall and with having some rest(s) on the rope.

adam

That's been called a red circle.

Another archaic term is the yo-yo ascent: where you fall, lower all the way to the ground, but don't pull your rope so that by the end, you've toproped a significant fraction of the climb, even though your final attempt was done without falls.


hyhuu


Sep 26, 2012, 7:42 AM
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Re: [marc801] Free climbing question [In reply to]
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marc801 wrote:
madam wrote:
another "style" is "alles frei" which I dont know english word for. Basically this is climbing the route without taking a fall and with having some rest(s) on the rope.
That is not free climbing. Any rests on gear or the rope constitutes aid.

I think you meant hang dogging. Aid climbing is entirely different matter.


marc801


Sep 26, 2012, 8:13 AM
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Re: [hyhuu] Free climbing question [In reply to]
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hyhuu wrote:
marc801 wrote:
madam wrote:
another "style" is "alles frei" which I dont know english word for. Basically this is climbing the route without taking a fall and with having some rest(s) on the rope.
That is not free climbing. Any rests on gear or the rope constitutes aid.

I think you meant hang dogging. Aid climbing is entirely different matter.
Hang dogging is a form of aid. Yes, it helps you figure out the moves and linkages for the eventual redpoint attempt, but at the time it is still aid. Yes, it's a matter of style, not ethics.


wonderwoman


Sep 26, 2012, 8:21 AM
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Re: [marc801] Free climbing question [In reply to]
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marc801 wrote:
hyhuu wrote:
marc801 wrote:
madam wrote:
another "style" is "alles frei" which I dont know english word for. Basically this is climbing the route without taking a fall and with having some rest(s) on the rope.
That is not free climbing. Any rests on gear or the rope constitutes aid.

I think you meant hang dogging. Aid climbing is entirely different matter.
Hang dogging is a form of aid. Yes, it helps you figure out the moves and linkages for the eventual redpoint attempt, but at the time it is still aid. Yes, it's a matter of style, not ethics.

In that case, I am the master of aid climbing. I am soooo ready for The Nose.


hyhuu


Sep 26, 2012, 9:25 AM
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Re: [marc801] Free climbing question [In reply to]
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marc801 wrote:
hyhuu wrote:
marc801 wrote:
madam wrote:
another "style" is "alles frei" which I dont know english word for. Basically this is climbing the route without taking a fall and with having some rest(s) on the rope.
That is not free climbing. Any rests on gear or the rope constitutes aid.

I think you meant hang dogging. Aid climbing is entirely different matter.

Hang dogging is a form of aid. Yes, it helps you figure out the moves and linkages for the eventual redpoint attempt, but at the time it is still aid. Yes, it's a matter of style, not ethics.

Since hangdogging doens't involve using gears for upward movement, I don't see how it fits the defintion of aid climbing. I'm certainly no expert but if it fits then so be it.


curt


Sep 26, 2012, 11:08 AM
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Re: [hyhuu] Free climbing question [In reply to]
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hyhuu wrote:
marc801 wrote:
hyhuu wrote:
marc801 wrote:
madam wrote:
another "style" is "alles frei" which I dont know english word for. Basically this is climbing the route without taking a fall and with having some rest(s) on the rope.
That is not free climbing. Any rests on gear or the rope constitutes aid.

I think you meant hang dogging. Aid climbing is entirely different matter.

Hang dogging is a form of aid. Yes, it helps you figure out the moves and linkages for the eventual redpoint attempt, but at the time it is still aid. Yes, it's a matter of style, not ethics.

Since hangdogging doens't involve using gears for upward movement, I don't see how it fits the defintion of aid climbing. I'm certainly no expert but if it fits then so be it.

The simplest explanation is that a legitimate free ascent requires the rope and gear to not be weighted at all.

Curt


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