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Grip training and physique tips?
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deanb724


Sep 29, 2012, 3:59 PM
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Grip training and physique tips?
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I started climbing around the beginning of august (climbing wall). rock climbimg is sonething I have allways wanted to do and I would love to make it a way of life, I am even applying for university in wales as it is the best place in the UK for climbing. Anyway initially when I began climbing at the climbimg wall I had a natural 'knack' for it however my fore arms allways gave out very fast and I found I could only do lower graded climbs because my grip was not good enough.
I am a 17 year old male, 187 pounds and 6 ft from what I can gather my weight might hinder my arms less usefull and it's not like I am fat and need to loose weight, I have about 15% body fat and I am an ex rugby player so how on earth can you lose weight if you are not fat? Anyway the past three weeks I have been spending about three hour.s (climbing untill either my grip goes or my hands get too raw) at the climbing wall every other day and I still don't seem to be able to make those 6c moves, my grip just doesn't suffice yet I see other climbers clmbing around the higher graded routes with ease. I think my gtlrip just isn't improving. I don't think I am over working my muscles either because the next day they feel fine, like I hadn't been climbing the day before, I don't think I am eating too little becwuse I normally eat about a pound of chicken thighs after (about 50 grams of protein there apparently) and I eat lots of pasta, potatoes and rice based meals though I don't think there is ever a time when I don't feel hungry, ecen after 5 chicken thighs I feel hungry for more.
Oh and I understand technique is important but from what I haveexperienced even when using proper technique;
Elbows straight, hips to the wall, step up not pull up etc...
You still fail clinging onto those slopers and sloper crimps because of a lack of strengh.
how can I improve on this?
Oh please forgive my awefull grammar, my phones key board likes to do its own thing


shimanilami


Sep 30, 2012, 7:44 AM
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Re: [deanb724] Grip training and physique tips? [In reply to]
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Keep climbing.

That's about all.


Marylandclimber


Sep 30, 2012, 8:03 AM
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Re: [deanb724] Grip training and physique tips? [In reply to]
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Maybe do some stamina training like traversing easy walls for awhile.


cleavoncox


Sep 30, 2012, 6:33 PM
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Re: [deanb724] Grip training and physique tips? [In reply to]
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As a beginner, the only thing you really can do is just to keep climbing -you're grip strength will improve, and your fingers won't feel raw... eventually the only thing kicking you off the wall is when the gym closes. Wink


theextremist04


Sep 30, 2012, 9:16 PM
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Re: [deanb724] Grip training and physique tips? [In reply to]
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You'll probably lose some weight if you stop eating so much- that's a ton of food. And I don't know if you lift weights, but stopping is a great way to lose all the extra muscle you don't use for climbing. Other than that, as said, climb lots.


DemolitionRed


Oct 1, 2012, 2:46 AM
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Re: [deanb724] Grip training and physique tips? [In reply to]
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You have been climbing for 2 months. You have many years of experience to go through.
When you are very new to climbing it all feels easy, exciting and exhilarating because beginner climbers come on in leaps and bounds. There are so many basics to learn and the basics are fairly simple. Climbing up 4s and 5s require little more than monkey arms and speed.
You mention 6C. Are you talking English or French 6C sport climb? 6C climbing isn't just about being able to dynamically balance yourself on one foot and a tiny pincher, its about being able to do technical moves. 6C rarely offers you jugs where you can use brute strength. Once you start getting into sixes you need to develop excellent foot work. A sloper isn't going to hold you onto a wall through brute strength and neither is a 2 finger pinch. All its going to do is steady you and allow you preparation for the next move. You will hit static areas where you may need to hold on longer than you would on the more simple routes. Holding on does not rely on strength, believe me. It relies on your climbing ability over all and that includes quick thinking and being able to correctly read the route.

Your forearms giving out because your grip isn't good enough shows how little you are understanding here. When your forearms give out its because the capillaries in your fingers are closing down. Its because you are either holding on too tightly or have too much weight applied to that grip for too long a period.
An open hand on a sloper does not cause a tourniquet affect on the lower arm but what it does require is good core balance, good core strength, a well placed foot and the ability and technique to reach your next move.

Relax and stop trying to race through the grades because its quite meaningless.
I was at a gym a few days ago when two guys were trying to climb 6b's and 6C's Basically they were making fools of themselves because they had no technique and each relied on the belayer to hold on tightly with every move that was made. They thought they were really good though and at one point I heard one of them say, 'it would of been nice to of had some decent 7's in here'.

All I can suggest is read, read and read some more. A good book is '9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes' by Dave MacLeod.
Sit and watch those who flow easily and gracefully through the 6C climbs. Visual learning is a very good way to learn.


Partner cracklover


Oct 1, 2012, 8:20 AM
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Re: [deanb724] Grip training and physique tips? [In reply to]
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T0. But you'll probably get a few pages, just because the site has been so dead as of late.

GO


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