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Need Advice: Where to sport climb in US South-west this winter?
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Gronny


Sep 28, 2012, 12:03 PM
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Need Advice: Where to sport climb in US South-west this winter?
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Heyya! I'm a friendly Canuck looking to spend 2ish months (Jan-March) bumming around somewhere in the US south-west, hopefully doing a ton of awesome sport climbing.

Ideally I'd like to spend all or most of my time in 1 or 2 places. I'm looking for a place with decent weather in the winter, lots of easy-moderate sport routes, and good cheap and popular camping where I would easily find climbing partners!

I'm not super interested in doing a bunch of trad climbing, so I'm hesitant to go somewhere that is a hot-spot for trad climbing because I figure it would be more difficult to find partners to attack sport routes in such an area.

My biggest concern at this time is going somewhere and struggling to find people to climb with. So... does anyone have any advice as to where to go?

Cheers from a friendly Canuck!
Stef


potreroed


Sep 28, 2012, 1:40 PM
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Re: [Gronny] Need Advice: Where to sport climb in US South-west this winter? [In reply to]
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Forget the US, you need to come to sunny Mexico where you can live cheap and climb multi-pitch sport routes.


grantjk


Sep 28, 2012, 1:54 PM
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Re: [Gronny] Need Advice: Where to sport climb in US South-west this winter? [In reply to]
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I second Ed's response. Your description of what you're looking for is an exact description of the Potrero!


rocknice2


Sep 28, 2012, 2:14 PM
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Re: [Gronny] Need Advice: Where to sport climb in US South-west this winter? [In reply to]
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Your looking for a world class sport climbing area or 2 semi world class for that amount of time. On top of that you will need a spot that has centralized camping so you can find partners easier.

The southwest US has great paces but not for pure sport. That are good in winter. If you climbed trad and sport then there are places to go but for just sport I can't think of any world class spots.

+3 Mexico


dagibbs


Sep 28, 2012, 7:53 PM
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Re: [Gronny] Need Advice: Where to sport climb in US South-west this winter? [In reply to]
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What everyone else has said -- El Potrero Chico. Lots of moderate sport. Reasonably cheap living. More than enough climbing for a couple months. Generally good opportunities for finding partners down there. January to March is a great time to be there, generally good weather, too.

Ed can probably hook you up with a place to stay, too.


Gronny


Sep 28, 2012, 8:55 PM
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Re: [Gronny] Need Advice: Where to sport climb in US South-west this winter? [In reply to]
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Sweet! Thanks for the advice... I might even get a tan once its all said and done ;)

Also... what about Red Rocks that time of year?


potreroed


Sep 29, 2012, 9:51 AM
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Red Rocks could be good if you have your own vehicle and don't mind putting up with the camping hassles. If you climbed more trad I would recommend Mt. Lemmon and Cochise Stronghold in Arizona.


marc801


Sep 29, 2012, 10:43 AM
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Re: [Gronny] Need Advice: Where to sport climb in US South-west this winter? [In reply to]
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Gronny wrote:
Also... what about Red Rocks that time of year?
Red Rocks has very little sport climbing.


bodyboarder


Sep 30, 2012, 6:01 AM
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Red rocks has a shitload of sport climbing. Enough to last you a month or so. The's also all of the st george areas which are like 1.5 hrs from red rocks. There's also a lot of trad at red rocks too but there are like several hundred sport routes. There's a reason sport climbers on the west coast go there in large numbers all winter.


Gronny


Sep 30, 2012, 5:24 PM
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Good to know about Red Rocks... What is the camping situation like there? I read that there is a 14 day limit? Are there many climbers (potential climbing partners!) who camp there?


Partner cracklover


Oct 1, 2012, 8:29 AM
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Re: [Gronny] Need Advice: Where to sport climb in US South-west this winter? [In reply to]
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El Potrero sounds like a pretty good bet.

But if you definitely want to stay in the US, two places I could recommend would be Shelf Road in Colorado, and El Rito in New Mexico.

Both have have lots of good easy to moderate sport climbing. Both stay pretty warm in the winter, and have really close by and good camping. Both are pretty much sport only, so meeting partners should work out fine. El Rito is smaller, but you could definitely get a week's worth of climbing there in the 5.9 - 5.11 range.

Neither are world class, but most world class sport climbing destinations are not going to meet all your criteria.

Oh, and they're fairly close to each other - you could easily spend some time at one, and then drive to the other.

GO


(This post was edited by cracklover on Oct 1, 2012, 8:30 AM)


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