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knubs


Oct 3, 2012, 11:05 AM
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unclimbed routes
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ok, well this question seems like it should be one of the easiest to answer and yet i still cant find an answer. i also get asked this question a lot too.
so how do you know if a route has been climbed? i am out all the time just looking at a rock wondering if that crazy crack line i'm staring at has an ascent. up until recently i just didnt think about it too much, but now i found a spot that i am almost sure no climbers have gone to. it's a spot where only a very bored local would go. just hiking out there i was drooling over some cracks but had no gear with me. i am planning to go nail out all the routes i can in this area because they look pretty fun. i wouldnt be doing it to try and achieve first ascents necessarily, but if im going to climb all these routes then i will take the FA if no one else has

Thanks!


WesleyCalkins


Oct 3, 2012, 11:43 AM
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Re: [knubs] unclimbed routes [In reply to]
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Go climb all the rock you want. But before you start adding hardware or claiming FA's its usually a good idea to ask those bored locals if they know of any climbs in that area. Hell you could even post pics of the area. Where do you live? If it is like NC where I live its hard to believe that most of the worthy objectives that aren't 3 hours walk have been climbed. In an age of technology where we are living it should be pretty easy to find these answers and talk to the other locals that might know the answer.


Partner cracklover


Oct 3, 2012, 12:25 PM
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Re: [knubs] unclimbed routes [In reply to]
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knubs wrote:
ok, well this question seems like it should be one of the easiest to answer and yet i still cant find an answer. i also get asked this question a lot too.
so how do you know if a route has been climbed? i am out all the time just looking at a rock wondering if that crazy crack line i'm staring at has an ascent. up until recently i just didnt think about it too much, but now i found a spot that i am almost sure no climbers have gone to. it's a spot where only a very bored local would go. just hiking out there i was drooling over some cracks but had no gear with me. i am planning to go nail out all the routes i can in this area because they look pretty fun. i wouldnt be doing it to try and achieve first ascents necessarily, but if im going to climb all these routes then i will take the FA if no one else has

Thanks!

Same as always - ask around.

Depending on where you live, Mountainproject might help.

GO


knubs


Oct 3, 2012, 8:57 PM
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Re: [WesleyCalkins] unclimbed routes [In reply to]
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i live in joshua tree, california. i know most of the lines i see in joshua tree national park have been climbed, but the rocks i'm referring to are not in the national park. it's actually a couple towns over in an area called Giant Rock (worlds biggest freestanding boulder). there is an area at giant rock that has a couple climbing spots where someone has put up maybe 5 sport routes. this spot is on mountain project and is called the DMZ. the area is listed but no climbs are listed. it is a very small area. the climbs i was looking at though are still a long ways away(not actually in the dmz area). it's on top of a rock mountain that requires hours of 4th class work to get on top of and then there are a few randomly scattered 40' boulders here and there. those boulders are the ones that have the awesome looking crack lines. this is in a very random area that i dont think anyone knows about(or cares about). i know random people have been up there but i dont think any climbers have really explored it. with joshua tree miles away i dont think many people bother climbing there (it's in the middle of nowhere on the edge of a marine base.) the couple bolted crags get action now and then but even those ones dont get much.

and i dont know any local climbers besides my small group... most the locals here dont climb(even though we have 20,000 routes in our back yard...). most of the locals are low life city rejects or random tweakers Frown . i really do wish i knew more local climbers though.i know there must be a few.
and just fyi, i have no intentions of bolting anything. if i get an FA it will either be done via trad or free solo.

and if i am in a popular area like joshua tree national park, how is it logged or recorded that someone got the FA? if someone get's the first ascent what stops someone else from coming up a few days later and saying they got it?


olderic


Oct 4, 2012, 7:07 AM
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Re: [knubs] unclimbed routes [In reply to]
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Why do you need to know? way to you need "to take the first ascent"? What would happen if you just climbed it and left it at that?


Partner cracklover


Oct 4, 2012, 9:15 AM
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Re: [knubs] unclimbed routes [In reply to]
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knubs wrote:
i live in joshua tree, california. i know most of the lines i see in joshua tree national park have been climbed, but the rocks i'm referring to are not in the national park. it's actually a couple towns over in an area called Giant Rock (worlds biggest freestanding boulder). there is an area at giant rock that has a couple climbing spots where someone has put up maybe 5 sport routes. this spot is on mountain project and is called the DMZ. the area is listed but no climbs are listed. it is a very small area. the climbs i was looking at though are still a long ways away(not actually in the dmz area). it's on top of a rock mountain that requires hours of 4th class work to get on top of and then there are a few randomly scattered 40' boulders here and there. those boulders are the ones that have the awesome looking crack lines. this is in a very random area that i dont think anyone knows about(or cares about). i know random people have been up there but i dont think any climbers have really explored it. with joshua tree miles away i dont think many people bother climbing there (it's in the middle of nowhere on the edge of a marine base.) the couple bolted crags get action now and then but even those ones dont get much.

and i dont know any local climbers besides my small group... most the locals here dont climb(even though we have 20,000 routes in our back yard...). most of the locals are low life city rejects or random tweakers Frown . i really do wish i knew more local climbers though.i know there must be a few.
and just fyi, i have no intentions of bolting anything. if i get an FA it will either be done via trad or free solo.

and if i am in a popular area like joshua tree national park, how is it logged or recorded that someone got the FA? if someone get's the first ascent what stops someone else from coming up a few days later and saying they got it?

If you really want to know, do some research. C'mon engage your brain. For example, if you go to MP and look at the section on Jtree you will see four administrators for the area. Reach out to them. If not one of them knows the area you're talking about, chances are they'll be able to point you to the direction of someone who does.

Or reach out to the people currently doing FAs and those exploring new areas. They can probably save you a ton of time, since they will probably have already done a lot of the legwork/research. New Routes New areas

Alternatively, you live there, you must know *something* about the history? Reach out to some of the old timers, offer beer. See how far you get?

Alternatively, take Eric's advice and just climb the routes. I've done a number of trad FAs where I have no idea if someone's done them before, and don't really care.

GO


olderic


Oct 4, 2012, 9:56 AM
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Re: [cracklover] unclimbed routes [In reply to]
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cracklover wrote:

Alternatively, take Eric's advice and just climb the routes. I've done a number of trad FAs where I have no idea if someone's done them before, and don't really care.

GO

The ability to have "multiple FA's" (ozymoron) was actually one of the arguments for clean (nuts v. pins) BITD. Striving for LNT tactics (including any record keeping) was considered something to try for.


Partner cracklover


Oct 4, 2012, 10:04 AM
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Re: [olderic] unclimbed routes [In reply to]
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olderic wrote:
cracklover wrote:

Alternatively, take Eric's advice and just climb the routes. I've done a number of trad FAs where I have no idea if someone's done them before, and don't really care.

GO

The ability to have "multiple FA's" (ozymoron) was actually one of the arguments for clean (nuts v. pins) BITD. Striving for LNT tactics (including any record keeping) was considered something to try for.

There's a lot to be said for this. My sense of adventure was not diminished by the fact that some theoretical person may have done some or all of the lines before me. Unlikely, considering how much mud I dug out, but still possible, and really irrelevant to my fun.

Anyone who comes after me, if they happen to choose the same trees to rap off, may find old nylon webbing under the tree buried under however many years of pine needles. Aside from that - absolutely no trace (aside from somewhat cleaner cracks than elsewhere on the crag).

GO


(This post was edited by cracklover on Oct 4, 2012, 10:06 AM)


knubs


Oct 4, 2012, 4:56 PM
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Re: [olderic] unclimbed routes [In reply to]
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olderic wrote:
Why do you need to know? way to you need "to take the first ascent"? What would happen if you just climbed it and left it at that?


i dont need to know, im curious though. im going to climb it all whether i get the FA or not.
if i take a girls virginity i like to know, same with a crack. i dont brag about deflowering a girl and it's the same with a crack. it's just that knowing in your head that you were the first. dont make me sound like some dumb yuppy who climbs just to get recognition from others. i like to climb away from people because honestly im not a social person. i climb for ME because that's all i have now in my life and i wouldnt even climb with a partner if i didnt need a belayer.


basically i was posting because i was mostly just curious if there was some sort of database that climbers submitted their FA's to. it just seemed like there should be for the reason of sharing new climbs with other climbers


(This post was edited by knubs on Oct 4, 2012, 5:00 PM)


marc801


Oct 4, 2012, 5:54 PM
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Re: [knubs] unclimbed routes [In reply to]
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knubs wrote:
basically i was posting because i was mostly just curious if there was some sort of database that climbers submitted their FA's to. it just seemed like there should be for the reason of sharing new climbs with other climbers
It's called the new route book, usually on or near the counter in the local climbing shop. Guidebook authors usually start their research there. Now people might also post to rc, mp, st as well. But a central database, even for a specific locale? In your dreams.


potreroed


Oct 5, 2012, 12:30 PM
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Re: [knubs] unclimbed routes [In reply to]
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Climb the routes, name them, claim the first ascent, post them on the web, and, lo and behold, you will be deluged with information that so and so climbed them 30 years ago.


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