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j41182
Oct 3, 2012, 7:54 PM
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Registered: May 5, 2011
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I know the title is contradictory (mini bigwall?!), but anyways:
I'm looking for a small multi pitch AID climb, near Cathedral Ledge. I've heard it's a good place for basic aid climb. I want to aquire wall experience prior to climbing bigger walls.
Here's what I want to do:
spend 2 days on the wall, sleeping on our portaledge, aid climbing like 2 or 3 pitches per day. Nothing big, just a nice multi pitch to get on for 2 days.
I'm looking for something easy (around 5.6 - C1/C2 max), with nice anchor (i don't mind anchor on gear, as long as it's good gear, you know...), with a nice view!
any suggestions ?!
thanks a lot you guys !
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csproul
Oct 3, 2012, 8:26 PM
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Registered: Jun 4, 2004
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j41182 wrote: I know the title is contradictory (mini bigwall?!), but anyways: I'm looking for a small multi pitch AID climb, near Cathedral Ledge. I've heard it's a good place for basic aid climb. I want to aquire wall experience prior to climbing bigger walls. Here's what I want to do: spend 2 days on the wall, sleeping on our portaledge, aid climbing like 2 or 3 pitches per day. Nothing big, just a nice multi pitch to get on for 2 days. I'm looking for something easy (around 5.6 - C1/C2 max), with nice anchor (i don't mind anchor on gear, as long as it's good gear, you know...), with a nice view! any suggestions ?! thanks a lot you guys !
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j41182
Oct 3, 2012, 8:26 PM
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Registered: May 5, 2011
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yep.
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csproul
Oct 3, 2012, 8:38 PM
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Aren't there some short (~4 pitch) aid climbs on Cathedral?
How about on Cannon?
Sometimes you have to make due with practicing on shorter stuff before heading off to bigger ground. That's what I have been having to do here at Looking Glass in NC.
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wonderwoman
Oct 4, 2012, 2:18 AM
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Registered: Dec 14, 2002
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Moved from general to east coast by WW. And yes - look at Cannon.
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guangzhou
Oct 4, 2012, 2:51 AM
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Registered: Sep 27, 2004
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Modor Wall on Cathedral is a popular for first practice wall.
VMC Direct Direct (IV 5.9 C2), Cannon Cliff, New Hampshire.
9 pitches, mostly done as free-route, but big enough for a first big wall experience.
A bit further without going all the way west:
Glass Menagerie (IV 5.8 C2), Looking Glass, North Carolina
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hyhuu
Oct 4, 2012, 12:36 PM
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Registered: Jul 25, 2001
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The Prow (C1+). I remember there were plenty of fix gears on it.
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olderic
Oct 4, 2012, 2:10 PM
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Registered: Oct 17, 2003
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Why are you saying "near"? what's wrong with Cathedral?
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j41182
Oct 4, 2012, 3:39 PM
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Registered: May 5, 2011
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Nothing wrong with Cathedral itself, I just don't know the area much.
I've been told there were some good aid climbs to do down there, and I'm just looking for more precise informations!
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j41182
Oct 4, 2012, 6:44 PM
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Nice !! Thanks for the link !
The Prow at Cathedral ledge looks really good ! Does anyone knows if the belays are fixed, or all on gear ?
In other words, is there any ways to rap down if anything goes wrong ? Or the only way out is up ?
thanks for your inputs on this ! really appreciated!
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divnamite
Oct 5, 2012, 1:55 PM
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Registered: Feb 20, 2007
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j41182 wrote: Nice !! Thanks for the link ! The Prow at Cathedral ledge looks really good ! Does anyone knows if the belays are fixed, or all on gear ? In other words, is there any ways to rap down if anything goes wrong ? Or the only way out is up ? thanks for your inputs on this ! really appreciated!
For the prow, all belays are bolted except the last two pitches. if something goes wrong, you can bail with double ropes to the bottom, go back to your car, drive up the road and rappel back down to get your gear.
Link 1st & 2nd, 3rd and 4th. Last pitch is a fine hand crack. Hauling on 1st pitch sucks ball, the rest is easy.
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