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Cordellette Anchor Question
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chasetherabbit


Oct 4, 2012, 4:13 PM
Post #51 of 54 (1113 views)
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Registered: Oct 4, 2012
Posts: 14

Re: [redlude97] Cordellette Anchor Question [In reply to]
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I respectfully wish for this argument to end as everyone seems to be getting angry with me. I wasn't trying to start a problem. I rarely am online as I climb near daily after work. As a last reply i have only a few things to say.
1: I do not have a "go-to" for any type of anchor. I will say, however, that when it comes to bomber two bolt anchors i usually use a sliding X, or, if i need length but want no extension, i use the equalette. The cordelette I have used as well but in terms of equalization i prefer the equalette.
2: I never had a problem with the anchor above. I did mention (and the obvious reason people yelled at me) that the carabiners were clipped into rings and hinted to the OP to search more in depth on that. I can see how many misunderstood what i was trying to prove. I wasn't saying it was bad but i wanted the OP to see what rings were bad and learn about wear.
3: I am not a know it all like many of you now think but i do wish for everyone to be safe and enjoy climbing. I have actually given people anchor chains when they do a walk-around to set-up a top rope. (Not trying to look cool saying that)
4: I believe it is important still for the OP to read about direction of pull, fall forces and static loading before setting anchors. Equality is important and the cordelette even by looking at being pulled of its direction pulled proves its poor ability at maintaining equality. (Not saying never to do one)
5: I hope you all the best and safest of climbing and apologize for making anyone angry.


marc801


Oct 4, 2012, 5:48 PM
Post #52 of 54 (1097 views)
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Registered: Aug 1, 2005
Posts: 2744

Re: [chasetherabbit] Cordellette Anchor Question [In reply to]
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chasetherabbit wrote:
I respectfully wish for this argument to end as everyone seems to be getting angry with me.
Not so much you but you came off as a know it all.

chasetherabbit wrote:
I wasn't trying to start a problem.

Yet your first two comments to the OP sliced and diced him pretty well. To wit:
chasetherabbit wrote:
Saw this post and literally signed up to rockclimbing.com to reply to it. You are going to get someone hurt.
1: Conforming to one type of anchor on every double bolted anchor spot displays your inexperience.

It's like you wanted to pick a fight, as were some of your replies. And what a surprise - someone in the beginner's forum displaying their inexperience...and you decide to call them on the carpet for it.

chasetherabbit wrote:
1: I do not have a "go-to" for any type of anchor. I will say, however, that when it comes to bomber two bolt anchors i usually use a sliding X, or, if i need length but want no extension, i use the equalette. The cordelette I have used as well but in terms of equalization i prefer the equalette.
You don't have a "go-to" anchor set up yet you "usually use a sliding X" on bomber two bolt anchors. Are you Romney in disguise? And this despite other posters showing the problem with the sliding X in that application.

chasetherabbit wrote:
2: I never had a problem with the anchor above. I did mention (and the obvious reason people yelled at me) that the carabiners were clipped into rings and hinted to the OP to search more in depth on that. I can see how many misunderstood what i was trying to prove. I wasn't saying it was bad but i wanted the OP to see what rings were bad and learn about wear.
You didn't do any of that. All you said was:
chasetherabbit wrote:
4: That pic you posted has carabiners on "RAP" rings...
...which was also factually incorrect.


chasetherabbit wrote:
3: I am not a know it all like many of you now think but i do wish for everyone to be safe and enjoy climbing.
Maybe so, but you write like one.

chasetherabbit wrote:
I have actually given people anchor chains when they do a walk-around to set-up a top rope. (Not trying to look cool saying that)
Then why say it if you're not spraying?

chasetherabbit wrote:
4: I believe it is important still for the OP to read about direction of pull, fall forces and static loading before setting anchors. Equality is important and the cordelette even by looking at being pulled of its direction pulled proves its poor ability at maintaining equality. (Not saying never to do one)

But again, by ignoring the extremely simple pair of draws with lockers on them, you are also advocating a single one-size-fits-all approach - exactly what you accuse the OP of doing. Not every anchor requires textbook perfect equalization. Bomber two bolt sport anchors are one of those.

chasetherabbit wrote:
5: I hope you all the best and safest of climbing and apologize for making anyone angry.
Likewise.


bigredscowboy


Oct 25, 2012, 7:20 PM
Post #53 of 54 (985 views)
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Registered: Jul 30, 2007
Posts: 138

Re: [marc801] Cordellette Anchor Question [In reply to]
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This has to be the first time i've ever seen the dumb question not get flamed and the one guy willing to point out the obvious inexperience of the OP get flamed constantly


Partner rgold


Oct 26, 2012, 9:37 AM
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Posts: 1801

Re: [bigredscowboy] Cordellette Anchor Question [In reply to]
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This discussion puts me in mind of the quote, variously attributed to Will Rogers and Mark Twain,

"It's not what he doesn't know that bothers me ... it's what he knows for sure that just ain't so."

When in doubt, put yer money on Jim Titt folks. Unlike most of the rest of us, he's actually tested the situations he comments on.

And as for books and guides...well, we hope they are right (and over the years there have been spectacular examples when this was not the case), but knowledge evolves and practices adapt, although often very slowly, so that even experienced climbers and guides cling to suboptimal practices for a long time before up-to-date knowledge actually takes hold.

But most suboptimal practices nowadays, when knowledge about climbing practice spreads more quickly, are "good enough," and hysterical remarks about getting people killed are huge exaggerations. Often, a focus on minutiae start people off on long debates, while the most important issues are totally ignored.

This thread is a case in point. The rigging depicted is absolutely fine as long as the bolts are good, and is, of course, worthless if the bolts are bad. So the real question is, what clues are there to help a new climber judge the reliability of a bolted anchor?

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