Forums: Climbing Information: Gear Heads:
The Perfect Climbing Shoe
RSS FeedRSS Feeds for Gear Heads

Premier Sponsor:

 


Dez500


Oct 9, 2012, 4:06 AM
Post #1 of 14 (3873 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 8, 2012
Posts: 2

The Perfect Climbing Shoe
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Hi Everyone,

I'm working on a project to produce a work flow for a mass customizable rock climbing shoe, I would like to hear what you think would make the perfect rock climbing shoes.

If you could format your responses in the following way I would be very grateful, the number of years you've been climbing, preferred style, response.

Example; 7. bouldering. your response.

Thanks for your help


wonderwoman


Oct 9, 2012, 4:10 AM
Post #2 of 14 (3871 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 14, 2002
Posts: 4269

Re: [Dez500] The Perfect Climbing Shoe [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Moves from general to gear heads by ww.


kennoyce


Oct 9, 2012, 8:21 AM
Post #3 of 14 (3815 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Mar 6, 2001
Posts: 1320

Re: [Dez500] The Perfect Climbing Shoe [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Dez500 wrote:
Hi Everyone,

I'm working on a project to produce a work flow for a mass customizable rock climbing shoe, I would like to hear what you think would make the perfect rock climbing shoes.

If you could format your responses in the following way I would be very grateful, the number of years you've been climbing, preferred style, response.

Example; 7. bouldering. your response.

Thanks for your help

15, sport (currently), ones that will stick to anything, maybe they could have a button under one of your toes to release the stickiness so that you can get your feet back off the rock.


lena_chita
Moderator

Oct 9, 2012, 6:48 PM
Post #4 of 14 (3734 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 27, 2006
Posts: 5861

Re: [Dez500] The Perfect Climbing Shoe [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (1 rating)  
Can't Post

Dez500 wrote:
Hi Everyone,

I'm working on a project to produce a work flow for a mass customizable rock climbing shoe, I would like to hear what you think would make the perfect rock climbing shoes.

If you could format your responses in the following way I would be very grateful, the number of years you've been climbing, preferred style, response.

Example; 7. bouldering. your response.

Thanks for your help

9, mostly sport and bouldering. I would like a downturned shoe that has a small heel cup (not so deep that it cuts into Achileus tendon), but stays on securely for heelhooks, despite not being super-deep.


dangerlaef


Oct 9, 2012, 7:34 PM
Post #5 of 14 (3726 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Sep 27, 2004
Posts: 9

Re: [Dez500] The Perfect Climbing Shoe [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

28 Trad, Sport & Bouldering.

I still like high tops, mainly for protecting ankles from cracks,
& they do offer protection heel hooking steep sport & boulders.
I can't see why there can't be a high top sports shoe.

There must be a place for a little of he tranverse stiffness of old school trad shoes. It prevents toe crushing while jamming, as well as improving edging.


(This post was edited by dangerlaef on Oct 9, 2012, 7:36 PM)


billcoe_


Oct 9, 2012, 9:06 PM
Post #6 of 14 (3705 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 30, 2002
Posts: 4668

Re: [dangerlaef] The Perfect Climbing Shoe [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

dangerlaef wrote:
28 Trad, Sport & Bouldering.

I still like high tops, mainly for protecting ankles from cracks,
& they do offer protection heel hooking steep sport & boulders.
I can't see why there can't be a high top sports shoe.

There must be a place for a little of he tranverse stiffness of old school trad shoes. It prevents toe crushing while jamming, as well as improving edging.


39, Gear, followed by some sport and bouldering.

Ditto. High top. The TC Pro as a high top is pretty good, needs to be more flexible in the upper, fit better, and have a velcro closure.


gunkiemike


Oct 10, 2012, 2:58 AM
Post #7 of 14 (3692 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 1, 2002
Posts: 2265

Re: [Dez500] The Perfect Climbing Shoe [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

37, trad. Stiff laterally for edging but flexible lengthwise for smearing. High top is NOT important to me. Not a fan of Velcro.


johnwesely


Oct 10, 2012, 6:32 AM
Post #8 of 14 (3674 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 12, 2006
Posts: 5343

Re: [Dez500] The Perfect Climbing Shoe [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

7. Sport. The Five Ten Quantum.


jeepnphreak


Oct 10, 2012, 10:01 AM
Post #9 of 14 (3651 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jul 28, 2008
Posts: 1259

Re: [Dez500] The Perfect Climbing Shoe [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

18, Sport, Trad and Ice. Something that edges like a asymmetrical, but smears and is as comfortable and a symmetrical shoe. Something like Murias + Mythos hybrid


billcoe_


Oct 13, 2012, 10:26 AM
Post #10 of 14 (3490 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 30, 2002
Posts: 4668

Re: [billcoe_] The Perfect Climbing Shoe [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

OK, I've considered some more. Theres half a million rockclimbing shoes being made. 4 hightops...give or take. There's half a million guide approach shoes being made. The shoe dudes are trying to fit all these niches, women who want to look pretty in the gym, guys who want to freeclimb El Cap or climb like Tommy Caldwell LOL, yet there isn't not a perfect amalgam of these 2 major types of shoe done yet. I would think that you could add a little arch support, plus stiffen right at the point where an aider would be, and then try and otherwise optimism a climbing shoe for freeclimbing and you'd have a sure fire winner and mega seller. Let me try and flesh out what I'm thinking a bit. To be able to hike into an area and climb with the same shoe without significant loss of performance, would be optimum. That shoe isn't being made.

It's so simple and no one has done it. Just take a clunky approach shoe (5.10 Guide Tennie or LaSportiva Ganda- I own both), and force it to have sex with a pair of board lasted shoes (LaSportiva TC Pro, Red Chili Spirit, 5.10 Grandstone or even better the new Anasazi high top - the only one I don't own yet).

Once you've cleaned up the mess, the kids produced would be a runaway best seller if you priced it in there and didn't get crazy. You'd have an all day shoe that was comfortable and could also climb within a grade of your highest. You go look at approach shoes and see if you think they look anything like climbing shoes. They don't. Furthermore, almost all climbing shoes are real bad for hiking. I did 2 6 pitch free solo laps on the local crag and got some very painful and lasting Plantar fasciitis from just the short run down the trail back to the start of the route in my Red Chili Spirits. Maybe less than a mile walking in them? It sucked. I can get up that stuff with my approach shoes...but they are not good rock climbing shoes.

Meld the best features of the 2. Winner.

Gearwhore has spoken. You're welcome.


acorneau


Oct 13, 2012, 1:31 PM
Post #11 of 14 (3468 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Feb 6, 2008
Posts: 2889

Re: [Dez500] The Perfect Climbing Shoe [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

~15; trad/sport/gym; a shoe with a mini Skyhook built into the toe.

Actually, I would love to find shoes that have little to no "point" in the front and more room on the "corners" for my big and pinky toes.


Partner robdotcalm


Oct 13, 2012, 5:20 PM
Post #12 of 14 (3448 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 31, 2002
Posts: 1023

Re: [acorneau] The Perfect Climbing Shoe [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

High top Mythos

rob.calm


billcoe_


Oct 13, 2012, 6:24 PM
Post #13 of 14 (3441 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 30, 2002
Posts: 4668

Re: [robdotcalm] The Perfect Climbing Shoe [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

robdotcalm wrote:
High top Mythos

rob.calm

These are already produced by the same company which makes Mythos, they are called TC Pros.


Partner robdotcalm


Oct 13, 2012, 8:52 PM
Post #14 of 14 (3427 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 31, 2002
Posts: 1023

Re: [billcoe_] The Perfect Climbing Shoe [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

billcoe_ wrote:
robdotcalm wrote:
High top Mythos

rob.calm

These are already produced by the same company which makes Mythos, they are called TC Pros.

TCs and Mythos are quite different. For one thing Mythos fit my feet and TCs don't and are much stiffer and less sensitive than Mythos. In wide cracks, I either tape my ankles or wear ankle supports to protect the ankles from getting scratched while wearing Mythos. I'd prefer a leather high top on the shoe.

Rob.calm


Forums : Climbing Information : Gear Heads

 


Search for (options)

Log In:

Username:
Password: Remember me:

Go Register
Go Lost Password?
$17.95 (10% off)
$165.24 (10% off)
$16.42 (10% off)
$2.25 (10% off)



Follow us on Twiter Become a Fan on Facebook