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english-ed
Oct 8, 2012, 8:40 PM
Post #1 of 7
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Registered: Apr 14, 2004
Posts: 5
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Hi there. I'm visiting from the UK in October and I have 3 days in the Gunks. Please could you recommend me some classic lines. According to the grade conversion I'm keen to climb mostly in the 5.10s with some 5.11s if I'm feeling the style. Only safe one please because I'm a big wuss and I've heard that gunks climbers like a good sandbag! Thanks for the recommendations, Cheers Ed Xxx
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gblauer
Moderator
Oct 9, 2012, 2:19 AM
Post #2 of 7
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Registered: Oct 4, 2002
Posts: 2824
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Have fun! Here's a long list. * indicate climbs that I really like and would recommend. Let us know how it goes. I don't do a lot of 11's but I did like the following: Carbs and caffeine Laughing Man The Sting Ent's line (direct) Yellow Wall (I have not done this, only heard tales of wonder about this climb) Fly Again Enduro Man For a lot of 10's and 11's you might want to go to Lost City (park in lot at Split Rock Damn, walk in. Mostly undocumented. Pick a line and climb) Fun 10's in Trapps Nosedive* Restribution* Feast of Fools (both pitches) Beatle Brow Bulge Falled on account of Strain (can run both pitches in 1)* Erect Direction (can do it in 2 pitches) Nurses Aid* Balrog Welcome to the Gunks Anything to the right of MF (star action, coex, Try Again etc) Never Never land (some bolts on this slabby climb) Directississima* Wegetables I have never seen* Other fun climbs, various grades Shockleys done in vulgarian style (naked), 5.6* MF (both pitches), 5.9 The Blackout* 5.9 (kind of a hidden gem, lots of people avoid it because of R rated move on P2) Pink Laurel 5.9 (I hate this climb, others love it) Birdcage (5.10, Near Trapps) Son of Easy O* (done in 1 pitch), 5.8 (Great climb to get started on) Pas de Deux (thoughtful 5.8) Drunkards Delight* (5.8, do it in 1 pitch) Arrow* 5.8 Annie O 5.8 Three Doves 5.8 CCK* craziest, exposed 5.7 anywhere, can do the 5.9 direct variation (I like direct better) Bonnie's Roof* (can do the direct variation on P2), 5.9 Ant's line 5.9 Double Crack* (do it in 1 pitch) 5.8 Airy Aria 5.8 Apoplexy* 5.9 Modern TImes* 5.8 Wasp 5.9
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gunkiemike
Oct 9, 2012, 11:14 PM
Post #3 of 7
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Registered: Oct 1, 2002
Posts: 2266
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You can't go wrong with any of the 3 star routes in the Williams guides.
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curt
Oct 9, 2012, 11:45 PM
Post #4 of 7
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Registered: Aug 27, 2002
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Just be aware that really well protected (G protection ratings) are fairly rare at the 5.11 difficulty level in the Gunks--particularly since the SkyTop cliff is now closed to climbing. Curt
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english-ed
Oct 10, 2012, 9:05 PM
Post #5 of 7
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Registered: Apr 14, 2004
Posts: 5
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Thanks for all of the replies. It is a real shame about SkyTop cliff - thats where Foops is and it looks jaw droppingly amazing. If you have any particular gear beta that would be great. I've heard that tri cams are useful. Is it worth buying any? Or can I just make do with a standard rack? Ed
(This post was edited by english-ed on Oct 10, 2012, 9:06 PM)
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gblauer
Moderator
Oct 11, 2012, 4:48 AM
Post #6 of 7
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Registered: Oct 4, 2002
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Plenty of people climb without tricams at the gunks.
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danabart
Oct 11, 2012, 10:00 PM
Post #7 of 7
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Registered: Jan 24, 2004
Posts: 159
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Tricams can be used, but you can start a fire with a flint, some tinder and a lot of time, too. Small camming devices. Curt is correct about the 5.11 grade. And Mike is correct about the three star routes.
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