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dr_feelgood


Oct 8, 2012, 5:35 PM
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Re: [lena_chita] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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still trying to secure this ptftw...


dr_feelgood


Oct 8, 2012, 5:36 PM
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Re: [drivel] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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whoo!


dr_feelgood


Oct 8, 2012, 5:36 PM
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Re: [carabiner96] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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SP


snoopy138


Oct 8, 2012, 6:42 PM
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Re: [caughtinside] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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caughtinside wrote:
Went to the valley. Did the New Dimensions and the Freeblast. good times.

nice. how was the freeblast?


caughtinside


Oct 9, 2012, 8:42 AM
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Re: [snoopy138] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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snoopy138 wrote:
caughtinside wrote:
Went to the valley. Did the New Dimensions and the Freeblast. good times.

nice. how was the freeblast?

Pretty cool. THe cruxes are all slab which isn't awesome but I had the other surly Will for that. He took a nice fall on an upward driven pin with a fully cracked eye at the crux. Exciting! He did the route with two falls, but freed every move. I did the frogblast and pulled through in a couple spots.

Rapping those fixed ropes was a shade dodgy. I probably had to pass 6 knots that were tied out core shots.

There were a few hanging belays that hammered my kidneys and put my legs to sleep a couple times. Had to backpack the tag line when the 30+mph winds had it blowing totally sideways.


snoopy138


Oct 9, 2012, 8:45 AM
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Re: [caughtinside] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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caughtinside wrote:
snoopy138 wrote:
caughtinside wrote:
Went to the valley. Did the New Dimensions and the Freeblast. good times.

nice. how was the freeblast?

Pretty cool. THe cruxes are all slab which isn't awesome but I had the other surly Will for that. He took a nice fall on an upward driven pin with a fully cracked eye at the crux. Exciting! He did the route with two falls, but freed every move. I did the frogblast and pulled through in a couple spots.

the other surly Will being Will S?

Was he trying to get you to belay him while he worked the rest of the Freedrider?


caughtinside


Oct 9, 2012, 9:26 AM
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Re: [snoopy138] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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snoopy138 wrote:
caughtinside wrote:
snoopy138 wrote:
caughtinside wrote:
Went to the valley. Did the New Dimensions and the Freeblast. good times.

nice. how was the freeblast?

Pretty cool. THe cruxes are all slab which isn't awesome but I had the other surly Will for that. He took a nice fall on an upward driven pin with a fully cracked eye at the crux. Exciting! He did the route with two falls, but freed every move. I did the frogblast and pulled through in a couple spots.

the other surly Will being Will S?

Was he trying to get you to belay him while he worked the rest of the Freedrider?

Yeah, that Will.

Nah, his plan is to work the cruxes on the mini trax. I think he may have someone lined up in like a week to try the middle part of the route, and maybe try leading the upper cruxes if they feel reasonable after some work.

I was just the warmup guy.


snoopy138


Oct 9, 2012, 11:15 AM
Post #93808 of 104138 (2959 views)
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Re: [caughtinside] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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caughtinside wrote:
snoopy138 wrote:
caughtinside wrote:
snoopy138 wrote:
caughtinside wrote:
Went to the valley. Did the New Dimensions and the Freeblast. good times.

nice. how was the freeblast?

Pretty cool. THe cruxes are all slab which isn't awesome but I had the other surly Will for that. He took a nice fall on an upward driven pin with a fully cracked eye at the crux. Exciting! He did the route with two falls, but freed every move. I did the frogblast and pulled through in a couple spots.

the other surly Will being Will S?

Was he trying to get you to belay him while he worked the rest of the Freedrider?

Yeah, that Will.

Nah, his plan is to work the cruxes on the mini trax. I think he may have someone lined up in like a week to try the middle part of the route, and maybe try leading the upper cruxes if they feel reasonable after some work.

I was just the warmup guy.

the fluffer.


caughtinside


Oct 9, 2012, 12:58 PM
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Re: [snoopy138] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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snoopy138 wrote:
caughtinside wrote:
snoopy138 wrote:
caughtinside wrote:
snoopy138 wrote:
caughtinside wrote:
Went to the valley. Did the New Dimensions and the Freeblast. good times.

nice. how was the freeblast?

Pretty cool. THe cruxes are all slab which isn't awesome but I had the other surly Will for that. He took a nice fall on an upward driven pin with a fully cracked eye at the crux. Exciting! He did the route with two falls, but freed every move. I did the frogblast and pulled through in a couple spots.

the other surly Will being Will S?

Was he trying to get you to belay him while he worked the rest of the Freedrider?

Yeah, that Will.

Nah, his plan is to work the cruxes on the mini trax. I think he may have someone lined up in like a week to try the middle part of the route, and maybe try leading the upper cruxes if they feel reasonable after some work.

I was just the warmup guy.

the fluffer.


Yeah. I did lead a stack of five ten though. And it was nice to finally finish the New D. That thing is a ton of physical work in an acute corner for a 5 star classic.

Oh yeah, funny story. We walk up saturday morning to the blast. There is a party of 3 just starting up. A party of two behind them. and us. We look up. Hanging at the first belay... is an aid party. They aided and hauled the whole freeblast. We went and did the New D. Came back Sunday am, climbed the route and caught up to them on Mammoth ledges.


tripperjm


Oct 9, 2012, 1:37 PM
Post #93810 of 104138 (2948 views)
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Re: [caughtinside] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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caughtinside wrote:
snoopy138 wrote:
caughtinside wrote:
snoopy138 wrote:
caughtinside wrote:
snoopy138 wrote:
caughtinside wrote:
Went to the valley. Did the New Dimensions and the Freeblast. good times.

nice. how was the freeblast?

Pretty cool. THe cruxes are all slab which isn't awesome but I had the other surly Will for that. He took a nice fall on an upward driven pin with a fully cracked eye at the crux. Exciting! He did the route with two falls, but freed every move. I did the frogblast and pulled through in a couple spots.

the other surly Will being Will S?

Was he trying to get you to belay him while he worked the rest of the Freedrider?

Yeah, that Will.

Nah, his plan is to work the cruxes on the mini trax. I think he may have someone lined up in like a week to try the middle part of the route, and maybe try leading the upper cruxes if they feel reasonable after some work.

I was just the warmup guy.

the fluffer.


Yeah. I did lead a stack of five ten though. And it was nice to finally finish the New D. That thing is a ton of physical work in an acute corner for a 5 star classic.

Oh yeah, funny story. We walk up saturday morning to the blast. There is a party of 3 just starting up. A party of two behind them. and us. We look up. Hanging at the first belay... is an aid party. They aided and hauled the whole freeblast. We went and did the New D. Came back Sunday am, climbed the route and caught up to them on Mammoth ledges.

heh...

30 years ago... or so, when I first did teh Salathe, we didn't fix, cum down and then haul. We just hiked teh bags in and then blasted. Made it to mammoth with teh bags, hauling teh free blast, bivied and continued teh next day.

There were no fixed lines back then and we didn't have anybody to grab teh ropes we wood have had to drop... and we didn't wunt to have to hike back up, to jug and retrive them after we finished teh wall..... and teh free blast wusn't really a popular free climb, like it is theses dayz. didn't seem that bad. Course we were young, dumb and strong back then.


caughtinside


Oct 9, 2012, 2:26 PM
Post #93811 of 104138 (2940 views)
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Re: [tripperjm] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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tripperjm wrote:
caughtinside wrote:
snoopy138 wrote:
caughtinside wrote:
snoopy138 wrote:
caughtinside wrote:
snoopy138 wrote:
caughtinside wrote:
Went to the valley. Did the New Dimensions and the Freeblast. good times.

nice. how was the freeblast?

Pretty cool. THe cruxes are all slab which isn't awesome but I had the other surly Will for that. He took a nice fall on an upward driven pin with a fully cracked eye at the crux. Exciting! He did the route with two falls, but freed every move. I did the frogblast and pulled through in a couple spots.

the other surly Will being Will S?

Was he trying to get you to belay him while he worked the rest of the Freedrider?

Yeah, that Will.

Nah, his plan is to work the cruxes on the mini trax. I think he may have someone lined up in like a week to try the middle part of the route, and maybe try leading the upper cruxes if they feel reasonable after some work.

I was just the warmup guy.

the fluffer.


Yeah. I did lead a stack of five ten though. And it was nice to finally finish the New D. That thing is a ton of physical work in an acute corner for a 5 star classic.

Oh yeah, funny story. We walk up saturday morning to the blast. There is a party of 3 just starting up. A party of two behind them. and us. We look up. Hanging at the first belay... is an aid party. They aided and hauled the whole freeblast. We went and did the New D. Came back Sunday am, climbed the route and caught up to them on Mammoth ledges.

heh...

30 years ago... or so, when I first did teh Salathe, we didn't fix, cum down and then haul. We just hiked teh bags in and then blasted. Made it to mammoth with teh bags, hauling teh free blast, bivied and continued teh next day.

There were no fixed lines back then and we didn't have anybody to grab teh ropes we wood have had to drop... and we didn't wunt to have to hike back up, to jug and retrive them after we finished teh wall..... and teh free blast wusn't really a popular free climb, like it is theses dayz. didn't seem that bad. Course we were young, dumb and strong back then.


Well that is a pretty good pace. These guys bivied on triangle ledge and made mammoth ledges day 2.

THey were having all sorts of shenanigans trying to flip the haul line out of the Half Dollar to haul up around that thing.

Oh yes, I just red on the facespace that the party I could see up high on the freerider was kamhe'ds buddy krushner. word is he zent.


drivel


Oct 9, 2012, 2:31 PM
Post #93812 of 104138 (2937 views)
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Posts: 2458

Re: [caughtinside] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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caughtinside wrote:
tripperjm wrote:
caughtinside wrote:
snoopy138 wrote:
caughtinside wrote:
snoopy138 wrote:
caughtinside wrote:
snoopy138 wrote:
caughtinside wrote:
Went to the valley. Did the New Dimensions and the Freeblast. good times.

nice. how was the freeblast?

Pretty cool. THe cruxes are all slab which isn't awesome but I had the other surly Will for that. He took a nice fall on an upward driven pin with a fully cracked eye at the crux. Exciting! He did the route with two falls, but freed every move. I did the frogblast and pulled through in a couple spots.

the other surly Will being Will S?

Was he trying to get you to belay him while he worked the rest of the Freedrider?

Yeah, that Will.

Nah, his plan is to work the cruxes on the mini trax. I think he may have someone lined up in like a week to try the middle part of the route, and maybe try leading the upper cruxes if they feel reasonable after some work.

I was just the warmup guy.

the fluffer.


Yeah. I did lead a stack of five ten though. And it was nice to finally finish the New D. That thing is a ton of physical work in an acute corner for a 5 star classic.

Oh yeah, funny story. We walk up saturday morning to the blast. There is a party of 3 just starting up. A party of two behind them. and us. We look up. Hanging at the first belay... is an aid party. They aided and hauled the whole freeblast. We went and did the New D. Came back Sunday am, climbed the route and caught up to them on Mammoth ledges.

heh...

30 years ago... or so, when I first did teh Salathe, we didn't fix, cum down and then haul. We just hiked teh bags in and then blasted. Made it to mammoth with teh bags, hauling teh free blast, bivied and continued teh next day.

There were no fixed lines back then and we didn't have anybody to grab teh ropes we wood have had to drop... and we didn't wunt to have to hike back up, to jug and retrive them after we finished teh wall..... and teh free blast wusn't really a popular free climb, like it is theses dayz. didn't seem that bad. Course we were young, dumb and strong back then.


Well that is a pretty good pace. These guys bivied on triangle ledge and made mammoth ledges day 2.

THey were having all sorts of shenanigans trying to flip the haul line out of the Half Dollar to haul up around that thing.

Oh yes, I just red on the facespace that the party I could see up high on the freerider was kamhe'ds buddy krushner. word is he zent.

krushner is pretty epic. i read his blorg.


tripperjm


Oct 9, 2012, 3:36 PM
Post #93813 of 104138 (2926 views)
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Kids these dayz.... [In reply to]
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heh...

Well, back in teh 90's, when I was busy 'single handedly distroying rock climbing in america'... naively thinking that I had left, nothing left to be distroyed... I wus rong.

Awlways figured it wood be sum washed up tradie, back to relive his past a-1 dreams, that wood be unhappy about teh hole.... again, I wus rong.

Seems, sum pebble wrestling loser, thinking he is teh second cumming of JB, is awl up in my ass trying to give me a shitty hand jorb.... turns owt, he doesn't like teh hole.

Has a lot to say to everywon about it, but sadly lacks teh self respect or courage to just walk up to me and say it to my fase. Kid's got sum talent though.... he kin simuitaneously spray hisself down and diss me in teh same breath.... kinda brought a tear to my eye, reminded me of a young trapper jim.

So my buddy is telling me teh story down in teh hole. Said teh loser wus really pissing him oft and he wunted to knock teh gays hed oft.... but his girl woodn't let him.... I just had to laugh.

My friend, who was obviously still steaming mad, snaps 'What teh fuk are you laughing at?' So I said, look I noes yore still pissed, but there is know reason to defend me or teh hole. This ain't my first rodeo, I kin take teh heat. And try to remember what we are trying to accomplish.... discouraging losers from cumming down hear. A lot ov people have heard about the place and teh more bad pr we get teh less people we'll see hear. Still, who you gunna believe, sum wanta bee who has never climbed here or awl teh strongest guys in sokat that train here? Sides, this war is just getting started, you may still gets teh chance to knock this losers hed oft.


Seriously though, I thought the hole gud roc vs shitty ass choss dramaz wus settled 20 years ago? Sides, Who wood have thought any self respecting bolder, wood give a rats ass whut sum washed up old man wus chuffing, down in a gaffitti covered, trash strewn. chossy shit hole? Kids theses dayz.


carabiner96


Oct 9, 2012, 4:40 PM
Post #93814 of 104138 (2919 views)
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Re: [tripperjm] Kids these dayz.... [In reply to]
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So, is it gross to move the toilet brush and plunger, or are those things that you toss in the dumpster and buy new when you move?


snoopy138


Oct 9, 2012, 5:07 PM
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Re: [caughtinside] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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caughtinside wrote:
snoopy138 wrote:
caughtinside wrote:
snoopy138 wrote:
caughtinside wrote:
snoopy138 wrote:
caughtinside wrote:
Went to the valley. Did the New Dimensions and the Freeblast. good times.

nice. how was the freeblast?

Pretty cool. THe cruxes are all slab which isn't awesome but I had the other surly Will for that. He took a nice fall on an upward driven pin with a fully cracked eye at the crux. Exciting! He did the route with two falls, but freed every move. I did the frogblast and pulled through in a couple spots.

the other surly Will being Will S?

Was he trying to get you to belay him while he worked the rest of the Freedrider?

Yeah, that Will.

Nah, his plan is to work the cruxes on the mini trax. I think he may have someone lined up in like a week to try the middle part of the route, and maybe try leading the upper cruxes if they feel reasonable after some work.

I was just the warmup guy.

the fluffer.


Yeah. I did lead a stack of five ten though. And it was nice to finally finish the New D. That thing is a ton of physical work in an acute corner for a 5 star classic.

Oh yeah, funny story. We walk up saturday morning to the blast. There is a party of 3 just starting up. A party of two behind them. and us. We look up. Hanging at the first belay... is an aid party. They aided and hauled the whole freeblast. We went and did the New D. Came back Sunday am, climbed the route and caught up to them on Mammoth ledges.

It seems like there are all sorts of gud rowts in yosemite that I should get around to at some point.


snoopy138


Oct 9, 2012, 5:09 PM
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Re: [carabiner96] Kids these dayz.... [In reply to]
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carabiner96 wrote:
So, is it gross to move the toilet brush and plunger, or are those things that you toss in the dumpster and buy new when you move?

we're trying to tawk abowt climbing hear.


Partner camhead


Oct 9, 2012, 6:00 PM
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Re: [snoopy138] Kids these dayz.... [In reply to]
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snoopy138 wrote:
carabiner96 wrote:
So, is it gross to move the toilet brush and plunger, or are those things that you toss in the dumpster and buy new when you move?

we're trying to tawk abowt climbing hear.
Yes. This is more climbing tawk than has been in the thread in weeks, & you have to bring up moving tawk? Oh and throw them away.


Partner epoch
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Oct 9, 2012, 6:41 PM
Post #93818 of 104138 (2900 views)
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Re: [carabiner96] Kids these dayz.... [In reply to]
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carabiner96 wrote:
So, is it gross to move the toilet brush and plunger, or are those things that you toss in the dumpster and buy new when you move?
Throw them away.


Partner epoch
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Oct 9, 2012, 6:42 PM
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Re: [epoch] Kids these dayz.... [In reply to]
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Crap


Partner epoch
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Oct 9, 2012, 6:54 PM
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Re: [epoch] Kids these dayz.... [In reply to]
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[*garden tawlk]

Raided the garden tonight. The takings were a small football sized eggplant, a bell pepper, some onion, a cucumber, and kale. One of the guys at work has a passion fruit tree and gladly shared today.

I came home with 6 fruits. I took three and blended it with olive oil, vinegar, added some lemon, and some finely chopped dried cranberries to make a stellar vinaigrette.

The onion, pepper, and kale went into a pan with some olive oil and I added some tofu to the mix before seasoning with 1/2 lemon, some pepper, and a small pinch of salt.

Took and chopped the tomatoes up and added them, the cucumber, onion, and some mozzarella cheese that we made yesterday and poured the vinaigrette over it.

Holy crap, it's sensational!

Paired it with a nice Reisling.

[/garden tawlk]

get rid of the toilet brush.


lena_chita
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Oct 9, 2012, 7:17 PM
Post #93821 of 104138 (2895 views)
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Re: [camhead] Kids these dayz.... [In reply to]
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camhead wrote:
snoopy138 wrote:
carabiner96 wrote:
So, is it gross to move the toilet brush and plunger, or are those things that you toss in the dumpster and buy new when you move?

we're trying to tawk abowt climbing hear.
Yes. This is more climbing tawk than has been in the thread in weeks, & you have to bring up moving tawk? Oh and throw them away.

American consumerist!!!! Some kid in China got lung cancer making that toilet brush!!! Disposable society!!! Feminazis!!!! (just because I've been dying to use that word, and it IS very 'real American" to use it)


snoopy138


Oct 9, 2012, 7:40 PM
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Re: [camhead] Kids these dayz.... [In reply to]
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camhead wrote:
snoopy138 wrote:
carabiner96 wrote:
So, is it gross to move the toilet brush and plunger, or are those things that you toss in the dumpster and buy new when you move?

we're trying to tawk abowt climbing hear.
Yes. This is more climbing tawk than has been in the thread in weeks, & you have to bring up moving tawk? Oh and throw them away.

not just that, but interesting climbing tawk about yosemite rowtz and jak's ranting.


climbs4fun
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Oct 9, 2012, 8:43 PM
Post #93823 of 104138 (2886 views)
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Re: [snoopy138] Kids these dayz.... [In reply to]
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I had to werk this weekend. Oh wait... I do that every weekend. Every day actually. Unsure


dr_feelgood


Oct 9, 2012, 9:11 PM
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Re: [camhead] Kids these dayz.... [In reply to]
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camhead wrote:
snoopy138 wrote:
carabiner96 wrote:
So, is it gross to move the toilet brush and plunger, or are those things that you toss in the dumpster and buy new when you move?

we're trying to tawk abowt climbing hear.
Yes. This is more climbing tawk than has been in the thread in weeks, & you have to bring up moving tawk? Oh and throw them away.
Durp. Buy them cheap, throw them away. Capitalism is good for something.


caughtinside


Oct 9, 2012, 10:40 PM
Post #93825 of 104138 (2867 views)
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Re: [snoopy138] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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snoopy138 wrote:
caughtinside wrote:
snoopy138 wrote:
caughtinside wrote:
snoopy138 wrote:
caughtinside wrote:
snoopy138 wrote:
caughtinside wrote:
Went to the valley. Did the New Dimensions and the Freeblast. good times.

nice. how was the freeblast?

Pretty cool. THe cruxes are all slab which isn't awesome but I had the other surly Will for that. He took a nice fall on an upward driven pin with a fully cracked eye at the crux. Exciting! He did the route with two falls, but freed every move. I did the frogblast and pulled through in a couple spots.

the other surly Will being Will S?

Was he trying to get you to belay him while he worked the rest of the Freedrider?

Yeah, that Will.

Nah, his plan is to work the cruxes on the mini trax. I think he may have someone lined up in like a week to try the middle part of the route, and maybe try leading the upper cruxes if they feel reasonable after some work.

I was just the warmup guy.

the fluffer.


Yeah. I did lead a stack of five ten though. And it was nice to finally finish the New D. That thing is a ton of physical work in an acute corner for a 5 star classic.

Oh yeah, funny story. We walk up saturday morning to the blast. There is a party of 3 just starting up. A party of two behind them. and us. We look up. Hanging at the first belay... is an aid party. They aided and hauled the whole freeblast. We went and did the New D. Came back Sunday am, climbed the route and caught up to them on Mammoth ledges.

It seems like there are all sorts of gud rowts in yosemite that I should get around to at some point.

derp. I should really go there more. THe extra hour in the car, plus no terrier, plus shitty camping, plus bear boxes... ugh. The climbing rules though.

Plus the hanta has everyone running skeered. Will was saying he was there labor day weekend and it was super mellow.

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