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multi pitch sport route?
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bigtuna94


Oct 9, 2012, 5:19 PM
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multi pitch sport route?
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Hey i'm trying to learn a bit about multi pitch climbs, right now i basically know nothing. Are there multi pitch sport routes, what do you need to know to do one, and what gear do you need in order to do a multi pitch climb?


(This post was edited by bigtuna94 on Oct 9, 2012, 5:20 PM)


USnavy


Oct 9, 2012, 9:06 PM
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Re: [bigtuna94] multi pitch sport route? [In reply to]
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Yes, they exist. However, you would be well off to practice belay setups and changeovers on the ground in front of someone qualified to judge your rigging. Once you get more than a rope length off the ground, your risk increases significantly. Really, the best option is to learn in the presence of someone that already knows what they are doing. Ask around and try to find someone that has climbed ten or more multi-pitch routes and ask them to show you the basics on the ground.


potreroed


Oct 9, 2012, 9:24 PM
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Re: [bigtuna94] multi pitch sport route? [In reply to]
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Click the link below to learn about the world capital of multi-pitch sport climbing.


bigtuna94


Oct 9, 2012, 9:38 PM
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Re: [USnavy] multi pitch sport route? [In reply to]
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Thanks, I'm just trying to get a basic understanding of how it works. It'll be some time before i actually start trying it but hopefully not to long.


ecade


Oct 10, 2012, 6:46 AM
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Re: [bigtuna94] multi pitch sport route? [In reply to]
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Learn self rescue and make sure your partner knows it too.

knowing = understanding the theory and how to implement it.

A great way to practice, after you have practiced on the ground, is to find a route that has a belay station midway. i.e. one that you can do as a single pitch. Then use this as a place to practice as it gives you the scenario but with many of the risks mitigated.

also listen to USnavy, the guy knows his stuff and he damn right, find someone with experience, books and classes are great but they are only preparation for the next step and that is experience.


marc801


Oct 10, 2012, 7:27 AM
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Re: [bigtuna94] multi pitch sport route? [In reply to]
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bigtuna94 wrote:
Thanks, I'm just trying to get a basic understanding of how it works.
Leader climbs pitch to the anchors.
Leader anchors in.
Leader belays second from above up to the anchors.
Second anchors, gives gear to leader, gets leader on belay,
Leader leads second pitch to its set of anchors.
Repeat as necessary to top of climb,

NO ONE is ever unanchored (or not on belay) at the belays (even if it's seemingly a large ledge that "you can't possibly fall off of") and NO ONE EVER UNTIES until on safe ground for the descent (or when the rappelling starts).

The party may decide to swap leads on each pitch or to lead in blocks of pitches on a longer route. The essential skills are knowing how to build a bomb-proof multi-directional anchor (a simple draw on each anchor bolt doesn't quite cut it), belaying from above and changing over to lead belay, rope management.


JimTitt


Oct 10, 2012, 8:30 AM
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Re: [potreroed] multi pitch sport route? [In reply to]
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potreroed wrote:
Click the link below to learn about the world capital of multi-pitch sport climbing.

Have you ever been to Arco or other parts of the Dolomites?


potreroed


Oct 10, 2012, 8:44 AM
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JimTitt wrote:
potreroed wrote:
Click the link below to learn about the world capital of multi-pitch sport climbing.

Have you ever been to Arco or other parts of the Dolomites?

Yes, I have, but I've never been to the Verdon in France which is another area which could claim the title.


Partner cracklover


Oct 10, 2012, 8:49 AM
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Re: [JimTitt] multi pitch sport route? [In reply to]
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JimTitt wrote:
potreroed wrote:
Click the link below to learn about the world capital of multi-pitch sport climbing.

Have you ever been to Arco or other parts of the Dolomites?

I wasn't going to say anything, but since Jim started it...

Or anywhere in France, Italy, etc?

A typical cliff over the Mediterranean at Les Calanques:



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