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Recommend me Gunks climbs
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english-ed


Oct 8, 2012, 1:40 PM
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Recommend me Gunks climbs
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Hi there.

I'm visiting from the UK in October and I have 3 days in the Gunks. Please could you recommend me some classic lines. According to the grade conversion I'm keen to climb mostly in the 5.10s with some 5.11s if I'm feeling the style. Only safe one please because I'm a big wuss and I've heard that gunks climbers like a good sandbag!

Thanks for the recommendations,

Cheers Ed

Xxx


gblauer
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Oct 8, 2012, 7:19 PM
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Re: [english-ed] Recommend me Gunks climbs [In reply to]
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Have fun!
Here's a long list. * indicate climbs that I really like and would recommend. Let us know how it goes.

I don't do a lot of 11's but I did like the following:
Carbs and caffeine
Laughing Man
The Sting
Ent's line (direct)
Yellow Wall (I have not done this, only heard tales of wonder about this climb)
Fly Again
Enduro Man

For a lot of 10's and 11's you might want to go to Lost City (park in lot at Split Rock Damn, walk in. Mostly undocumented. Pick a line and climb)

Fun 10's in Trapps

Nosedive*
Restribution*
Feast of Fools (both pitches)
Beatle Brow Bulge
Falled on account of Strain (can run both pitches in 1)*
Erect Direction (can do it in 2 pitches)
Nurses Aid*
Balrog
Welcome to the Gunks
Anything to the right of MF (star action, coex, Try Again etc)
Never Never land (some bolts on this slabby climb)
Directississima*
Wegetables I have never seen*

Other fun climbs, various grades
Shockleys done in vulgarian style (naked), 5.6*
MF (both pitches), 5.9
The Blackout* 5.9 (kind of a hidden gem, lots of people avoid it because of R rated move on P2)
Pink Laurel 5.9 (I hate this climb, others love it)
Birdcage (5.10, Near Trapps)
Son of Easy O* (done in 1 pitch), 5.8 (Great climb to get started on)
Pas de Deux (thoughtful 5.8)
Drunkards Delight* (5.8, do it in 1 pitch)
Arrow* 5.8
Annie O 5.8
Three Doves 5.8
CCK* craziest, exposed 5.7 anywhere, can do the 5.9 direct variation (I like direct better)
Bonnie's Roof* (can do the direct variation on P2), 5.9
Ant's line 5.9
Double Crack* (do it in 1 pitch) 5.8
Airy Aria 5.8
Apoplexy* 5.9
Modern TImes* 5.8
Wasp 5.9


gunkiemike


Oct 9, 2012, 4:14 PM
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Re: [english-ed] Recommend me Gunks climbs [In reply to]
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You can't go wrong with any of the 3 star routes in the Williams guides.


curt


Oct 9, 2012, 4:45 PM
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Re: [english-ed] Recommend me Gunks climbs [In reply to]
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Just be aware that really well protected (G protection ratings) are fairly rare at the 5.11 difficulty level in the Gunks--particularly since the SkyTop cliff is now closed to climbing.

Curt


english-ed


Oct 10, 2012, 2:05 PM
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Re: [curt] Recommend me Gunks climbs [In reply to]
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Thanks for all of the replies. It is a real shame about SkyTop cliff - thats where Foops is and it looks jaw droppingly amazing.

If you have any particular gear beta that would be great. I've heard that tri cams are useful. Is it worth buying any? Or can I just make do with a standard rack?

Ed


(This post was edited by english-ed on Oct 10, 2012, 2:06 PM)


gblauer
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Oct 10, 2012, 9:48 PM
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Re: [english-ed] Recommend me Gunks climbs [In reply to]
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Plenty of people climb without tricams at the gunks.


danabart


Oct 11, 2012, 3:00 PM
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Re: [gblauer] Recommend me Gunks climbs [In reply to]
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Tricams can be used, but you can start a fire with a flint, some tinder and a lot of time, too. Small camming devices.
Curt is correct about the 5.11 grade.
And Mike is correct about the three star routes.


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